Buzz
Big, voluminous curls are all the rage right now, but achieving those perfect curls can sometimes be tricky. Using a curling iron can leave your arms exhausted, and the curls often don’t last long. Hair curlers might seem old-fashioned, reminiscent of our grandmothers’ era, but there are plenty of techniques to bring this classic beauty trick into the 21st century! You can create tight curls, soft waves, or add volume using hot rollers, foam rollers, or wet-set curlers.
Steps
Using Hot Hair Rollers
Choose the right curlers. Small rollers create tight curls, while larger ones produce soft, wavy curls. Extra-large rollers are ideal for adding volume and curling just the ends rather than creating defined curls or waves. You’ll need hair at least shoulder-length to use larger rollers. Hot rollers work well for most hair types, except for very thin or fragile hair that’s prone to breakage. They’re especially effective for taming frizzy hair.
- The number of rollers you’ll need depends on the size of the curls you want and the size of your head. For small to medium tight curls, you might need a dozen or more rollers.
- Generally, each roller can hold a section of hair roughly its size, regardless of hair texture or thickness.
- Velvet rollers are smooth and shiny, making them perfect for frizz-prone hair.
- You can create different curl shapes by wrapping your hair around the roller in various ways. For example, wrapping one and a half times creates a C-shaped curl, while two and a half wraps result in an S-shaped curl. The number of wraps depends on your hair length and the roller size.
Straighten your hair with a blow dryer if necessary. For tightly curled hair, you’ll need to blow-dry it straight before rolling. This step ensures smooth and even curls.
Preheat the rollers. It’s crucial to heat the rollers to the optimal temperature before starting. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If your roller set has multiple heat settings, you may need to experiment to find the right temperature for your hair.
- For tight curls, use small rollers and high heat. Use larger rollers and lower heat for softer, looser curls.
Apply a heat-activated styling product. You can find heat-activated sprays or creams at most beauty supply stores. These products protect your hair and help the curls last longer. Apply evenly to dry hair.
Section your hair. Create a "mohawk" section about 5-7.5 cm wide running from your forehead to the nape of your neck, securing it with clips. Use the tail of a comb to part the hair on both sides into even sections and secure with clips.
Start rolling at the front. Comb a section of hair as wide as the roller and no thicker than 5 cm. Lift the section away from your head. Place the roller at the ends, roll upward toward the scalp, and pull away from your face. Secure with a clip.
- Continue with the mohawk section, rolling from front to back. Divide the hair into smaller sections, roll onto the rollers, and secure with clips.
Next, roll the hair on the sides of your head. Comb the section, lift it away from your head, and place the roller diagonally at the ends. Roll tightly up to the scalp and secure with a clip. Continue until all the hair is rolled.
- For higher volume, roll the upper side sections diagonally. For maximum lift, roll each section at a 90° angle.
Leave the rollers in until they cool. Wait for the rollers to cool completely before removing them. Taking them out too soon will cause the curls to lose their shape. Rollers take longer to cool if you have thick, curly hair, but be patient. The results will be worth the wait!
Remove the rollers. Start from the bottom and work your way up. Hold the roller with one hand and remove the clip with the other.
- Avoid pulling or yanking the rollers out, as this can tangle the curls and damage your hair. Let the rollers unwind naturally.
Using Foam Rollers
Choose the right rollers. Foam rollers work well for many hair types, especially fragile hair, as they minimize tangling and damage. Select rollers based on the curl size you desire. Smaller rollers create tighter curls, while larger ones produce soft, flowing waves. Your hair should be at least shoulder-length to use larger rollers. You need to wrap the hair around the roller at least one and a half times.
- Large rollers may not work well for very fine hair, as they can be too heavy and slip out. You may need to experiment to find the right type of roller.
Apply foam mousse evenly throughout your hair. Using a curl-enhancing product is especially important for fine or very straight hair; otherwise, your curls may fall flat within hours. Follow the product instructions for the amount of mousse to use, and distribute it evenly through damp hair after towel-drying.
Divide your hair into 4 sections. Use the tail of a comb for easier sectioning. Create a "mohawk" section from the middle of your head to the crown, two sections above your ears, and one at the back. Secure each section with clips.
- You can use any type of clip, but duckbill clips, often used by hairstylists, are available at beauty supply stores or online. These clips make sectioning quick and effortless.
Roll the hair into sections. The width of each section should match the size of the roller: no wider than the roller and no thicker than 5 cm.
- Comb each section before rolling. Use the tail of a comb to detangle and gently lift the hair away from the scalp.
Start rolling from the front of the "mohawk" section (near the forehead). Roll the hair away from your face, toward the back of your head. Hold the ends with one hand and roll with the other to keep tension. After two wraps, tuck the ends into the roller and roll tightly.
- For volume from the roots, start about 2.5 cm from the ends and roll down to the scalp. Secure with a clip.
- For straighter roots, start about 7-8 cm from the scalp and roll to the ends, then roll the roller down to the scalp. Secure with a clip.
Continue rolling the sides of your head. Split each side section horizontally, using the tail of a comb to part the hair just above the ear. Roll both subsections (away from your face toward the nape) and secure with clips.
- You may want to use larger rollers at the bottom and smaller ones at the top for varied curl sizes.
Divide the back of your hair into 3-4 sections, depending on thickness. Roll each section onto a foam roller toward the nape of your neck and secure with a clip.
Blow-dry to set the curls. Dry until your hair is warm and completely dry. Heat is essential for setting the curls. Leave the rollers in for about 15 minutes, then gently remove them.
- Avoid brushing your hair after removing the rollers! This will ruin the curls. If needed, use your fingers to lightly separate the curls.
- For extra volume, flip your hair upside down. Shake your head a few times and run your fingers through the curls. This will give you a fuller, bouncier look.
Apply hairspray. This is especially helpful if you have naturally straight or fine hair, as it helps the curls last longer.
- For more volume, flip your hair upside down before spraying.
- You can also define individual curls with styling wax. Rub a small amount between your fingers and gently scrunch through the curls.
Using Wet Hair Rollers
Choose your rollers. You can use various types of rollers for wet hair. Spiked or Velcro rollers are the easiest to use, but thick or curly hair may get tangled. Foam rollers are simple to apply, but their texture can slow down drying time. Smooth magnetic rollers hold hair tightly and create defined curls but are the most challenging to use. Experiment to find the best option for your hair.
- Spiked or Velcro rollers should not be used on soaking wet hair. If using these, blow-dry your hair until slightly damp before rolling.
Shampoo and condition your hair. Hair dries out when stretched, so use a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner before wet rolling. You can squeeze out excess water in the shower, but avoid towel-drying. Comb your hair while it’s still wet.
Section your hair. Divide the hair into left and right sections at the temples. Create three sections: two above the ears and one at the crown. Leave the back section untouched for now.
Start rolling at the hairline. Comb a section of hair as wide as the roller and lift it away from your head. Apply a small amount of gel or smoothing cream, then roll the hair away from your face, winding the roller down to the scalp. Secure with a pin or duckbill clip.
Continue rolling. Divide the hair into smaller sections, apply gel or smoothing cream, and roll the curls away from your face. For tight, small curls, use smaller rollers and place them close together. For larger curls, opt for bigger rollers.
Dry the curls. If you prefer no heat, let your hair air-dry completely before removing the rollers. This may take several hours or even overnight. Alternatively, use a blow dryer to dry the rolled hair. If blow-drying, leave the rollers in for about 15 minutes after drying to cool and set the curls.
Tips
- Always comb your hair before rolling it onto the curlers.
- Gather any loose strands and incorporate them into the section being rolled.
- Experiment with different roller sizes—and heat settings if using hot rollers—to achieve your desired look. Rollers are easier to use than clips or curling irons, so feel free to explore various styles!
- Regardless of the roller type, the size of the roller determines the size of the hair sections. Use the roller’s width to measure and divide your hair into rows and sections of equal width.
- You can also apply Method 1 to spiked or Velcro rollers. However, avoid Velcro rollers if you have thick or curly hair, as they can snag and cause damage.
What You'll Need
- Tail comb for sectioning
- Hair rollers
- Duckbill clips or bobby pins to secure the rollers
- Hairspray
- Blow dryer
