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The Day of the Dead (Día de Muertos) is here. This Mexican tradition originated during the Aztec era, where it was believed that the souls of the departed could only find peace after receiving offerings. Following the Spanish conquest of Mexico, these ancient practices merged with Catholic traditions.
The three-day celebration begins on October 31 with All Hallows’ Eve. It continues with All Saints’ Day on November 1 and concludes with All Souls’ Day on November 2, when the spirits of deceased children and adults are believed to return. While this might seem somber, Mexicans view death in a unique and celebratory way. The Day of the Dead is a vibrant occasion to honor departed loved ones. Families build altars to express their longing, gather in candlelit cemeteries to share memories, and participate in lively festivals that energize cities. Children even compose playful poetic obituaries known as calaveritas, which humorously predict the deaths of politicians, celebrities, and other living figures.
The Day of the Dead is a deeply spiritual and culturally rich event. Every element, from butterflies to skeletal figures, carries symbolic significance. Let’s explore some of the most intriguing facts and traditions associated with this extraordinary holiday.
10. The Underworld Deity Who Inspired an Iconic Symbol
One of the most recognizable symbols of Día de Muertos is La Calavera Catrina, also known as the 'Elegant Skull.' This female skeleton is celebrated through statues placed on altars, her iconic face painted on storefronts, and her likeness recreated with sugar skull makeup by festival attendees. She embodies the concept that death is a universal equalizer, affecting everyone regardless of their social or economic status.
La Catrina was originally conceived by the Mexican artist José Guadalupe Posada. While running his lithography business in Mexico City, Posada produced prints that critiqued government corruption and societal inequities. He particularly targeted President Porfirio Díaz, accusing the long-serving leader of enriching himself while neglecting Mexico’s impoverished population.
The first depiction of La Catrina appeared in 1910, showcasing her adorned in European aristocratic attire. This satirical artwork symbolized the downfall of Mexico’s affluent elite and ridiculed President Díaz’s admiration for European culture. Originally titled 'La Calavera Garbancera,' the illustration poked fun at indigenous Mexicans who attempted to adopt European appearances.
However, La Catrina’s origins trace back even further. Posada drew inspiration from Mictecacihuatl, the Aztec underworld queen, also known as the Lady of the Land of the Dead. Legend has it that she watched over a chamber filled with human bones, safeguarding the souls of the deceased and guiding them through different realms.
Posada’s creation was later embraced by the renowned painter Diego Rivera. In 1947, Rivera immortalized La Catrina in his famous mural, 'Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central.' Since then, La Catrina has become the enduring emblem of the Day of the Dead.
9. Altars Honoring the Departed
The altar of the dead (altar de muertos) is the heart of every Day of the Dead celebration. Found across both rural and urban Mexico, these sacred structures are designed to offer gifts to the spirits of the deceased. Spirits are guided to the offerings (ofrendas) by paths of flowers and the light of burning candles. The strong aroma of copal incense cleanses the souls of arriving spirits and repels evil. Each altar is filled with the favorite foods and drinks of the departed family member, such as sugar skulls, pan de muertos (bread of the dead), tamales, tequila, and beer. Additionally, altars often feature statues, photographs, cherished belongings, and poetic tributes.
While many families create altars at home, others choose to build them at the gravesites of their loved ones. Cemeteries play a central role in Day of the Dead festivities. Bands perform music near the graves, while countless candles illuminate the rows of headstones. Families gather to share stories about their departed relatives throughout the night. Public squares often display ofrendas dedicated to renowned Mexican figures. For instance, the Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral has erected an altar honoring the late Pope John Paul II, and artists vie to create the most impressive altars in Constitution Square.
The altar is a blend of Aztec and Catholic customs, structured into levels that symbolize different realms of existence. Some altars feature two levels (heaven and earth) or three levels (heaven, earth, and the underworld). The most prevalent are seven-tier altars, which represent the seven stages a soul must journey through to reach either the underworld or heaven.
8. The Ritual of Bone Washing
In the secluded town of Pomuch, located in southeastern Mexico, residents honor the Day of the Dead by cleansing the bones of their departed loved ones. Following traditional Maya burial customs, the remains are exhumed after three years. The bones, covered in soil, are meticulously cleaned with brushes and placed in specially crafted wooden boxes for display.
As the Day of the Dead approaches, the townspeople gather at the cemetery to perform the bone-cleaning ritual. While it may seem unsettling to outsiders, the tradition is a joyful one. Tombstones are repainted, shrines are adorned with vibrant flowers and candles, and the interiors of the wooden boxes are refurbished or replaced. The cemetery buzzes with laughter, storytelling, and a sense of community.
Some locals have even commercialized the bone-washing tradition. Venancio Tus Chi, a cemetery worker, offers bone-cleaning services for just $2. He emphasizes the importance of the ritual, stating that it reassures returning souls they are remembered. The Maya believe that washing the bones ensures a tranquil afterlife, while neglected remains are said to haunt the streets of Pomuch.
7. The Xoloitzcuintli: Mexico’s Hairless Dog
Fans of animated films might remember Disney Pixar’s portrayal of the Day of the Dead in the 2017 movie Coco. The film features a mischievous dog named Dante, who accompanies his young owner through the Land of the Dead and ultimately aids in his escape.
Dante is a Xoloitzcuintle, a breed of hairless dog. The Xoloitzcuintle’s name originates from Xolotl, the Aztec deity associated with lightning and fire. According to legend, the gods tried multiple times to recreate the sun, but on their fifth attempt, it remained motionless. In one version of the myth, Xolotl attempted to revive the sun by sacrificing other gods. He then journeyed to the Land of the Dead to retrieve the bones of humans who perished during the fourth cycle of life and death. The Aztecs believed Xolotl played a crucial role in their creation, using underworld bones to shape the current human race. He also acted as the 'Night Traveler,' ensuring the sun’s safe passage through the underworld each night.
Xolotl, often depicted with a dog’s head, created the Xoloitzcuintle to protect humans and guide their souls to the underworld. This belief led the Aztecs to sacrifice these dogs and bury them with the deceased. Over time, this practice faded, and clay figurines were used as substitutes.
While Disney’s Coco was widely praised, the company faced backlash for attempting to trademark the term 'Día de los Muertos.' Fortunately, Disney promptly withdrew its application.
6. Breaking Bad and the Santa Muerte Tradition
La Calavera Catrina is the widely recognized and secular symbol of Día de Muertos. However, she was preceded by a darker figure: Santa Muerte, also known as 'Our Lady of Holy Death.' This folk saint emerged shortly after the Spanish Inquisition, blending European Catholic imagery with Mesoamerican spiritual beliefs. Often portrayed with a scythe and a globe or scales, her appearance resembles the Grim Reaper.
Support for Santa Muerte remains a contentious issue, with the Catholic Church strongly opposing her veneration. Despite this, her following has expanded significantly in recent years. With over 10 million devotees, she represents the fastest-growing religious movement in the Americas. For many Mexicans, Santa Muerte is an integral part of Día de Muertos. Followers build shrines in her honor, offering tequila, cigarettes, food, and bones in hopes that she will grant their wishes. While most seek peace and prosperity, others have more malevolent intentions.
Santa Muerte has become a prominent figure in narco-culture. Law enforcement agencies report that drug traffickers pray to her for assistance in smuggling narcotics across the U.S.-Mexico border. 'Officers conducting drug raids often find elaborate Santa Muerte altars in suspects’ homes,' said Robert Almonte, a former narcotics officer.
Mexican cartels, including La Familia Michoacana and the Gulf Cartel, have performed human sacrifices in Santa Muerte’s name. In 2008, the Gulf Cartel executed members of a rival gang in front of one of her shrines. Other gruesome offerings have included human heads, hearts, and skin.
In the TV series Breaking Bad, two Mexican assassins are sent to kill Walter White, a teacher turned meth producer. Before their mission, they are shown crawling toward a dilapidated hut, where they make a sacrifice and place a photo of their target on a candlelit altar. Their object of worship? Santa Muerte.
5. Guiding the Spirits
The Day of the Dead aligns with the annual migration of millions of monarch butterflies. Each October, these stunning insects travel south to Mexico, covering an astonishing 2,000-mile journey that spans several months. Unlike common garden monarchs, these butterflies are larger, more resilient, and can live up to eight months. While scientists remain puzzled by their navigation abilities, many Mexicans view their migration as more than mere chance.
The Mazahua and Purepecha tribes regard the monarch butterflies as carriers of their ancestors’ spirits. A month before the Day of the Dead, the Mazahua ring bells to summon the butterflies, chanting, 'Here come the dead.' They also provide bowls of water for the migrating insects. This belief influences their burial customs, as small holes are drilled into coffins to allow the 'butterfly souls' to escape.
The spirits of the deceased are also aided in other ways. Marigold petals are scattered across graves to rouse the sleeping souls. The Mexican marigold (Tagetes erecta), with its vibrant orange hue and strong fragrance, is believed to attract spirits. Families often create pathways with these petals, leading the souls to beautifully adorned altars.
The Aztecs revered marigolds for their sacred link to the sun and used them to cover the bodies of the dead. They conducted human sacrifices to honor Huitzilopochtli, the god of sun and war, hoping to prevent the sun from collapsing. The sun was not only essential for life but also served as a celestial guide, shepherding spirits to the underworld.
4. The Cemetery Dilemma
In Mexico City, the Day of the Dead faces a growing challenge. The city’s cemeteries are overcrowded, forcing officials to exhume remains to make room for new burials. When burial rights expire, surviving family members are given the option to cremate the old remains. If no family is found, the remains are reburied beneath new graves. With the capital’s population exceeding 9 million, the government is considering stricter limits on burial durations. Some cemeteries have even started exhuming bodies after just one year.
Jose Jimenez, a cemetery administrator in one of the city’s smaller districts, expressed frustration: 'What truly upsets us is the lack of respect for our loved ones. They remove them from their graves a year or two after burial and replace them with someone else.'
Many residents fear that the city’s push for cremation could undermine the Day of the Dead and its cherished traditions. Exhumation would prevent families from visiting their loved ones’ graves, a central aspect of the celebrations.
The Catholic Church once prohibited cremation but relented as burial space became scarce. However, more traditional Catholics still oppose cremation, opting to pay high fees for burial rights or use above-ground mausoleums and crypts where bodies are stacked.
3. Dances with Old Men… and Fish
The Dance of the Old Men (Danza de los Viejitos) is a cultural tradition from the Purepecha people. Often performed during Day of the Dead celebrations, the dance is both humorous and surprising. It typically involves three or more dancers wearing masks of elderly men. The performance begins slowly, with the dancers portraying frail, uncoordinated individuals hobbling on canes and occasionally bumping into each other. As the music accelerates, the dancers transform, stomping their feet (zapateado) in sync with violins and guitars. The lively routine often concludes with the 'old men' collapsing from exhaustion.
The Dance of the Old Men dates back to pre-colonial times and was originally performed to honor Huehueteotl, the ancient god of fire, often depicted as an elderly man carrying a brazier of burning coals. Over time, the dance evolved to humorously mimic the Spanish conquistadors, whom the Mesoamericans believed had grown weak from inactivity.
The Dance of the Fish (Danza del Pescado) is another captivating performance. A dancer dressed as a large fish attempts to escape fishermen and a crocodile. Other participants wear strings of wooden fish that clatter to the rhythm of drums. At one point, a mermaid joins the action. Fishermen along the Balsas River perform this dance to ensure good luck for hunters.
2. James Bond Inspires Mexico City Festival
The opening scene of James Bond’s twenty-fourth film, Spectre, is set during the Day of the Dead. The sequence follows 007 through a vibrant Día de Muertos festival in Mexico City, featuring giant skeleton puppets, live bands, dancers, and crosses adorned with marigolds. Women dress as La Catrina, while men don elegant skeleton costumes.
Before the release of Spectre, no such festival existed in Mexico City. In 2016, government officials collaborated with the city’s tourism board to bring the event to life. Now, hundreds of thousands attend the festival annually. The celebration features a parade of marching bands, dancers, and towering mojiganga puppets. These large figures, crafted from wooden frames and papier-mâché, are animated by puppeteers who operate them from within, making the giants appear to dance.
The Skull Carnival includes a procession of dancing skeletons along the 1-kilometer route. Aztec warriors on roller skates highlight Mexico’s rich heritage, while spirit animal floats, known as alebrijes, add vibrancy to the event. These intricate sculptures, inspired by the dreams of Mexican artist Pedro Linares, feature fantastical creatures like donkeys with butterfly wings and rooster-bull hybrids, captivating all who see them.
1. Graveyard Crime and Bulletproof Mausoleums
Gravesite visits on November 1 and 2 have become a target for thieves. With rising crime rates, many celebrants now avoid cemeteries altogether. The Iztapalapa graveyard in Mexico City has seen a significant decline in visitors during the Day of the Dead. In 2005, around 31,000 people visited, but by 2015, the number dropped to 12,000. To ensure the safety of mourners, local police now patrol the cemeteries.
Many now prefer to celebrate the Day of the Dead at home. Rosa Maria Aloron, a resident of Iztapalapa, visits her family’s graves weeks before the holiday. 'Many of my friends have been robbed here, so it’s safer to come earlier,' she explained.
Activists have turned the Day of the Dead into a platform to highlight Mexico’s homicide crisis. Altars dedicated to victims of violent crimes, gang conflicts, mass shootings, and kidnappings are erected across the country. Vigils are frequently held at the Angel of Independence monument in Mexico City, serving as a poignant reminder of the nation’s struggles.
Even deceased drug cartel members face threats. In Culiacan, home to the Sinaloa cartel, the Jardines Del Humaya cemetery houses the remains of cartel members and their families. These mausoleums, costing up to $500,000, are fortified with security gates, surveillance cameras, and bulletproof glass. Inside, they feature luxuries like televisions, air conditioning, and high-end liquor.
