Buzz
Our sense of smell is the most fleeting of all. While it's easy to imagine how the past looked, we rarely stop to consider how it smelled. Given the poor hygiene in much of human history, perhaps that's just as well.
From the moment bad odors appeared, humans began finding ways to mask them—and thus, perfume was born. Here are ten surprising facts about the history of perfume that might just change how you think about it.
10. The First Chemist With a Name Was a Perfumer
Perfume boasts an extensive history, and it is partly through the human desire to smell pleasant that many of the techniques used by later scientists came to be. The earliest records of chemists' names appear on a cuneiform tablet from Babylon, dated 1200 BC.
Tapputi was a woman employed in the Babylonian royal palace, crafting the perfumes that fragranced the court. Historical records reveal that she used flowers, oils, grasses, myrrh, and balsam to make her fragrances. By combining water and other solvents, she could extract the aromatic essences. The tablet referencing Tapputi also marks the earliest known mention of a still, the very same type of equipment still in use in laboratories today for distillation.
For her contributions, Tapputi was granted the title belatekallim, roughly translated as 'female overseer of a palace.' The ancient text also alludes to a female assistant who worked with her, though much of the assistant's name has been lost due to damage to the tablet. As a result, Tapputi is recognized as the first named chemist in history.
9. Ancient Perfume Factory
The oldest perfumes ever found predate written history in Europe. For example, a perfume factory dating back to 2000 BC was discovered on the island of Cyprus. This Bronze Age site was filled with pottery vessels once used to hold perfumes. Due to the site's size and the quantity of perfume found, it seems likely that these fragrances were traded throughout the Mediterranean.
The discovered complex reveals that multiple industries were operating simultaneously. In addition to perfumery, wine production, copper smelting, and olive oil pressing were also taking place. Though perfumery might not seem to fit with these other industries, olive oil was a key ingredient in the creation of perfumes.
In ancient times, creating perfume meant extracting the scents from natural materials. As many aromatic chemicals do not dissolve in water, oil was required, and olive oil was an accessible option. By the time of the discovery’s announcement in 2005, archaeologists had already identified 12 perfumes at the site, all infused with olive oil.
8. Sweat Of The Gods
Perfumes held great significance for the ancient Egyptians. They believed that perfumes were the sweat of the sun god Ra. To enter a room filled with fragrant aromas was thought to be a divine experience, a connection with the gods.
The Egyptians even had a god dedicated to perfume, named Nefertum, who oversaw the art of scent-making. Beyond their pleasant smell, perfumes were believed to have healing powers—as when Nefertum cured Ra of illness by offering him sweet-smelling flowers.
Hieroglyphic records show that perfume-making existed in Egypt at least 5,000 years ago. Later accounts reveal that while outsiders found the Egyptians' obsession with perfume curious, other cultures paid large sums to import their fragrances. Pharaohs and other elites were often buried with perfumes to ensure that, even in the afterlife, they would be surrounded by pleasant scents.
7. Animal Fragrances
It’s surprising how beautiful a perfume can be created from a seemingly disgusting combination of ingredients. If someone tried to spray you with whale vomit or the essence of an anal gland, you’d likely tell them to go away. In the world of high-end perfumery, however, this would be seen as the highest compliment.
Sperm whales may not seem like they belong in the perfume industry, but for centuries, they unknowingly contributed to it. Ambergris, a waxy and light substance, sometimes washes ashore. Its unique aroma made it an ideal base for perfumes. Anyone who found a lump of it by the sea could (and still can) sell it for a hefty sum. It wasn’t until sperm whales were regularly hunted that it was discovered ambergris is produced by the whale’s digestive system as a protective measure against squid beaks.
Musk-scented perfumes are popular, but the original musk came from the glands of the musk deer. Other animals were similarly exploited for their scents. Civet, for example, is a secretion from the anal glands of the civet cat. Though it’s often described as “fecal” and “repulsive” on its own, when combined with other ingredients, it transforms into a pleasant fragrance. Castoreum, another component used in both perfumery and food, is extracted from the anal glands of beavers.
6. Pomanders
Before the true origins of diseases were understood, one widely accepted theory was that they spread through bad air. This idea, known as the miasma theory, made some sense since sources of infection often emit unpleasant odors. However, masking these smells with pleasant fragrances didn’t actually eliminate the germs.
During outbreaks of plague, massive bonfires were often set alight in city streets to drive away the bad air. Meanwhile, people burned herbs in their homes, hoping the smoke would purify the environment. One wealthy man stood surrounded by several fires to shield himself from the bad air. Those who were particularly cautious about their health would even smoke tobacco from pipes to keep a source of smoke close by.
Doctors treating numerous plague victims often wore beaked masks, with the beaks filled with pungent herbs to prevent inhaling the foul air from their patients. For those outside the medical profession, a more refined solution was the pomander—a small perfume container. Often made from silver or gold, these could be held up to the nose whenever one felt at risk of infection or simply needed to avoid a less refined area of the city.
5. Drinking Perfume
It’s already known that many aromatic chemicals do not dissolve in water, and mixing them with oils created even more issues. No one wanted to start their day covered in oil. A breakthrough came with the development of alcohol distillation. Now, perfumes could be created in such a way that they left minimal residue. One of the earliest alcohol-based perfumes in Europe was known as the Queen of Hungary’s Water, or simply Hungary water.
Legend has it that this unique fragrance was first crafted in the 14th century, created either for a Hungarian saint or, as the name implies, for a queen. While the exact origins of the recipe remain a mystery, it rapidly spread throughout Europe. Its reputation grew, with claims that it could cure ailments like gout and restore youth to aging skin. Different versions of the perfume emerged, many of which incorporated brandy and a variety of herbs.
There were also many different ways to use this fragrance. It could be spritzed or dabbed on the skin like any typical perfume, but some even added it to their baths. Others, however, couldn't resist its alcoholic allure and chose to drink Hungary water. It became a widely used remedy for a range of health problems, and at the very least, the alcohol might offer a momentary escape from life's worries.
4. Countless Scents
Humans are believed to have relatively underdeveloped olfactory senses compared to certain animals. For example, dogs can detect everything from drugs to cancer, making human noses seem almost useless in comparison. Humans possess approximately 400 distinct odor receptors, and it was once thought we could recognize only about 10,000 different scents. However, recent studies suggest that our ability to distinguish smells is far more impressive than previously believed.
By blending various scents, researchers discovered that humans are far more adept at distinguishing between odors than originally thought. Their findings revealed that the actual minimum number of distinct smells we can identify is around one trillion.
One challenge humans face is that our languages are not very effective at capturing the nuances of what we smell. While we can describe sounds and sights with specific words, when it comes to smells, we often resort to comparing them to something else.
3. Unusual Fragrances
Some individuals find perfumes unbearable, no matter how luxurious. Even the most refined scents can leave them gasping for air. Others are particularly sensitive to certain odors. Fragrance is truly subjective, but there are times when a scent can be universally considered odd.
For those who crave a constant reminder of hamburgers, Burger King introduced its Flame body spray in 2008, designed to carry the scent of flame-grilled meat wherever you go. Other food-inspired fragrances have been launched, including BBQ pork belly and bacon.
One company stands out when it comes to the more unconventional side of perfumery. Demeter offers an extensive fragrance collection, ranging from the scent of Grumpy Cat's fur to Spacewalk, which captures the smell of outer space. While you might assume the vacuum of space would be odorless, astronauts report a strong metallic odor when they re-enter the spacecraft.
So, whether you dream of smelling like a towering sequoia or the rich aroma of a cigar humidor, rest assured that someone is crafting the perfect fragrance just for you.
2. The Million-Dollar Nose
You may have a nose, and I may have a nose, but we are not noses. In the perfume industry, those who design fragrances are referred to as 'noses.' After all, their expertise can be worth a fortune if they manage to create the perfect blend of scents for a hit product.
Noses spend years mastering the art of perfume creation. They must be able to recognize a vast array of scents and ingredients in order to understand how to blend them effectively. Specialized schools train these professionals, and many prominent perfume companies invest heavily in cultivating their own talented noses.
One of the most legendary noses of the 20th century was Jean Carles. He crafted some of the most iconic perfumes of the era before establishing his own school to teach aspiring noses. His method of imparting scent knowledge remains widely used today. Due to the importance of his sense of smell, it's rumored that he had his nose insured for $1 million.
1. High-End Perfumes
Perfumes can be incredibly expensive. Luxury brands often seek the rarest, most exclusive ingredients, which justifies their high prices. For example, creating a single bottle of Chanel No. 5 requires 1,000 hand-picked jasmine flowers. And this is only the beginning of the lavish world of luxury fragrances.
Clive Christian’s Perfume No. 1 is already quite costly when bought by itself, with a small bottle priced in the several hundred pounds range. However, the packaging can significantly increase the bottle’s value, reaching into the thousands. One edition was offered in a crystal bottle with gold embellishments and a five-carat diamond attached. Another version was encrusted with over 2,000 diamonds. The actual scent of the perfume, though, is curiously left unmentioned on the website.
However, the most expensive perfume bottle ever might be the DKNY Golden Delicious. This exquisite bottle took 1,500 hours to craft and was priced at $1 million in 2011. For this price, you got not just the perfume but also a bottle adorned with tourmalines, sapphires, rubies, and diamonds. If you're not interested in the luxury packaging, the standard version of DKNY Golden Delicious can be purchased for just a few tens of dollars.
