10 Tips for Painting Your Home's Exterior

A new layer of exterior paint can turn a tired "fixer-upper" into a chic "classic," greatly enhancing curb appeal and adding significant value to your home's resale price. Even if selling isn't on your agenda, a high-quality exterior paint job will safeguard it from the elements — such as wind, rain, mold, and mildew — and may even spark envy from your neighbors.

However, let's not kid ourselves. Painting the exterior of your home is a major commitment in both time and money. Hiring a professional could cost tens of thousands of dollars. Taking the DIY route will save you money, but expect to spend long hours on ladders scraping off stubborn paint and inhaling primer fumes.

If you're ready for the DIY challenge, we've compiled 10 crucial tips to help your home-painting project run smoothly and achieve a beautiful result. With any luck, it'll last 25 years — at which point, it'll be someone else's problem.

Let's kick things off with an unexpected factor when it comes to painting: the calendar.

10: Check the Weather

Moisture is a painter's arch-nemesis. If your wood siding or concrete foundation is waterlogged, the paint will peel and crack within just a few months. Avoid the headache (and extra expense) of having to repaint by making sure all surfaces are completely dry.

If you live in an area with long, harsh winters and rainy springs, wait until at least June to begin your exterior paint job. In hot and humid climates, aim for the cooler, drier fall weather. Professional painters use moisture meters and won’t begin painting if the moisture content of the wood exceeds 12 percent [source: Lernley].

You can purchase a meter for as low as $20 — or simply monitor the weather. Wait until the forecast predicts clear skies and warm nights for at least a week. Rain can ruin fresh latex paint, and temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius) can prevent the paint from sticking to the surface and curing properly [source: Benjamin Moore].

9: Look Out for Lead

The first task in any exterior painting project is to remove all cracked, bubbling, and otherwise damaged old paint. If your house was constructed before 1978, there's a high probability that some of its many layers of paint contain lead, a dangerous neurotoxin that can severely affect brain function and development, particularly in children.

To test your paint for lead, refer to this list of EPA-approved labs and contact the nearest one to learn how to send in a sample. If the results are positive, you'll need to take extra precautions when scraping away the old, deteriorated paint. The ideal solution is to rent a device called the PaintShaver — a motorized grinder that efficiently removes paint from wood surfaces and traps the dust and debris in a sealed vacuum bag [source: Hurst-Wajszczuk].

Even if you're not dealing with lead paint, it's still important to minimize mess and avoid inhaling paint dust. Get yourself a reliable painting respirator so you can breathe comfortably. Also, consider purchasing some canvas drop cloths, like the ones professionals use. Unlike cheap plastic alternatives, they’re durable and reusable. Spread them beneath your work area and drape them over shrubs and plants to shield your landscaping from falling paint chips [source: Hurst-Wajszczuk].

8: Patch Those Cracks

Painting your home’s exterior can be a slow and laborious process, but it offers a chance to thoroughly inspect your house. While you're spending hours scraping the trim, take the time to check the condition of wood clapboards, window sills, and shutters. If you come across any broken, cracked, or rotting areas, repair them now to avoid issues in the future.

If a piece of wood is completely rotted, it must be replaced. However, if you only notice a few cracks or holes, patch them using a high-quality exterior patching compound. There’s no need to mix it; simply apply the soft putty to the damaged area, smooth it in the opposite direction, let it dry, and then sand it smooth. Roughly sanding the edges of the hole will help the compound bond better [source: Barhnart et al].

For a perfectly smooth finish, consider sanding all wood surfaces. We know it’s a hassle, but you can rent or borrow a power sander to cover more area in less time. Focus especially on the areas where bare wood meets existing paint. Use fine 50- or 80-grit sandpaper to make those transitions as seamless as possible [source: Hurst-Wajszczuk].

7: Give It a Bath

Remember how we emphasized the importance of painting on moisture-free surfaces? Forget that for a moment. After you’ve stripped away the old paint and patched up the broken siding, it’s time to tackle another common issue in old homes: mold and mildew. The most effective way to do this is with a good old-fashioned scrub and rinse.

Mold, mildew, and other fungi can penetrate deeply into wood fibers, far beyond the reach of a scraper or sander. The best approach is to mix 1 cup (236 milliliters) each of bleach and trisodium phosphate with 2 gallons (7.5 liters) of water [source: Lernley]. Spray the solution on affected areas and scrub thoroughly with a stiff-bristled brush.

Allow the bleach solution to sit for a few hours before gently rinsing the entire house to remove any dust or paint debris. It might be tempting to use a power washer, but beware — strong streams of water can damage softer woods. When unsure, stick with a regular garden hose [source: Hurst-Wajszczuk].

Now, you can remember the moisture advice. Wait a few sunny days after rinsing before getting back to the painting project.

6: Prime for Action

For large painting projects, applying a coat of primer can feel like a tedious extra step. But it could be the key difference between a 5-year paint job and one that lasts 25 years. Primer has two main roles: it seals in any remaining moisture (which helps prevent mildew) and provides a smooth, clean base for the paint to adhere to. If you’re lucky enough to start with a perfectly smooth and clean surface, you might not need primer, but that’s rare [source: Paint Quality Institute].

Before applying the primer, make sure to mask off windows, gutters, and any other areas you don't want painted with blue painter's tape. Then, apply the primer using a sprayer or roller, followed by a brush to reach into corners that are harder to get to [source: Lernley]. We’ll dive deeper into the pros and cons of brushes, rollers, and sprayers later.

When it comes to primer, what’s the difference between oil-based and latex? Professional painters tend to prefer latex primers and paints as they’re water-based and easy to clean up [source: Dawson]. However, some still opt for oil-based primers because they penetrate wood surfaces more deeply [source: Lernley].

Do you need two coats of primer? The smoother the surface, the better the final result, but you also need to weigh how much time and money you want to invest. While primer is cheaper than paint, it still comes at a cost. A 5-gallon (19-liter) bucket of exterior primer typically starts at $60 to $70, with prices only going up from there.

5: Get Out Your Gun

Caulking is a professional trick that can significantly increase the lifespan of your exterior paint job. Caulk is a glue-like material that seals cracks and seams, such as those between siding and windows or between siding and trim. The primary enemy is water, which can seep into these gaps and cause your fresh paint to crack and bubble. Caulking differs from patching because you'll need to apply it even to undamaged areas where water might find a way in.

Caulk should be applied after you've primed the surface. Experts suggest using siliconized acrylic caulk because paint will adhere to it [source: Hurst-Wajszczuk]. If you're caulking an area where two different materials meet, like wood and concrete or concrete and metal, choose caulk that’s compatible with both. Avoid caulking cracks between clapboards, as moisture from inside the house needs to escape [source: Barhnart et al].

To apply caulk, you'll need a caulking gun, an affordable metal tool designed for the job. Apply a thick bead of caulk along the seam and smooth it out with your finger to form a neat, flat seal. If the gap is particularly wide, you might need a backer rod — a foam-like tube that fits into the seam before you apply the caulk [source: Truini].

4: Treat Yourself to Good Paint

As a buyer, it’s not always easy to tell if a pricier product is truly superior. Brand names often come with a higher price tag than generics, even though they may contain the exact same ingredients.

When it comes to paint, however, experts agree: you really do get what you pay for. More expensive paints are richer in pigments, resulting in a deeper, more vibrant, and longer-lasting color compared to cheaper alternatives. When budgeting for your exterior painting project, make sure to invest in the highest quality you can afford [source: Truini].

Acrylic latex paint is generally the better choice over oil. Latex doesn't release harmful volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that are detrimental to the environment and unpleasant for the nose. It stays flexible, reducing cracking compared to oil-based paint, and dries much quicker. Cleanup is easy with just soap and water, rather than paint thinner. Additionally, latex paint can be applied over any primer or existing paint, a feat that oil-based paints can't manage [source: Hurst-Wajszczuk].

There are two specific situations where oil-based paint is the superior option:

3: Choose Your Weapon Wisely

After days — or even weeks — of preparation, you're finally ready to dive in. You’ve picked the ideal color, spent a small fortune on high-quality paint, and now the only decision left is: how do you apply it? Brush, roller, or sprayer?

For professional painters, the answer is simple: "All of the above." Each method of applying paint has its own strengths and weaknesses:

If you're comfortable using a paint sprayer, start by covering a large area with the sprayer, then finish by back brushing with a brush to ensure an even and smooth finish [source: Benjamin Moore].

2: Made in the Shade

Painters are like farmers: They enjoy the sun unless it’s too dry, and they love the rain unless it’s interfering with their work. Sunny, warm days are great for drying out moisture in wood, but excessive sunlight can ruin a painting job that’s in progress.

Here’s the issue: When painting large surfaces, like a house’s exterior wall, you need to work in sections, shifting your ladder and drop cloths as you go. If the sun is directly shining on the wall, the paint will dry faster than you can keep up with. When fresh paint is applied over dried paint, it creates noticeable lap marks where the sections overlap, resulting in an uneven, blotchy finish [source: Benjamin Moore].

Ideally, schedule your painting work for the shaded side of the house. If that’s not an option, aim for a cloudy day — just be sure it’s not rainy!

1: Work on Your Brushstrokes

Painting isn’t just about applying paint to a wall; it’s an art that requires technique. Always begin painting from the top and work your way down to avoid unwanted drips.

When using a brush, immerse about 2 inches (5 cm) of the bristles in the paint, then tap the brush against the container’s edge to remove excess paint. Apply a thick coat, using fast back-and-forth strokes two or three times. Reload and repeat for around 3 to 4 square feet (0.3 to 0.4 square meters). To finish, smooth the area with the brush, but don’t add more paint. Use long strokes from the unpainted to the painted section [source: The Family Handyman].

For rollers, submerge the roller into a 5-gallon (19-liter) bucket and let any excess paint drip off on a roller screen, a metal grid that hangs in the bucket. Apply moderate pressure to roll the paint onto the surface, reloading whenever the paint starts to run dry. Cover an area of 3 to 4 square feet. Use a brush afterward to paint the edges and crevices of the siding [source: The Family Handyman].

When painting overlapping siding, begin by painting the bottom or "butt" edge before working on the larger surface area [source: Truini]. To avoid lap marks, work on a section of four or five boards at a time, painting across the entire width before the paint has a chance to dry [source: Benjamin Moore].