12 Dermatology Terms Explained by Dr. Pimple Popper

Dr. Pimple Popper—dermatologist Dr. Sandra Lee—visited the Mytour offices in 2019 to explain 12 dermatological terms frequently mentioned in her patient consultations.

1. Comedone

Derived from Latin, this term was historically thought to describe tiny worms in the skin during the 18th century. Today, Lee explained to Mytour in 2019, comedo or comedone refers to “the medical name for a blackhead or whitehead, essentially a pore blocked by dirt, debris, dead skin cells, and oil.”

2. and 3. Blackhead and Whitehead

Lee explains that open comedones are blackheads, while closed comedones are whiteheads. "The exposure to oxygen causes blackheads to oxidize and darken, giving them their characteristic color," Lee noted. "In contrast, whiteheads remain covered by a thin layer of skin, shielding them from sunlight and keeping their lighter hue."

Lee emphasizes that the treatment for both blackheads and whiteheads is quite similar. Extraction is one effective method: blackheads can be safely removed at home using a comedone extractor, Lee's tool of choice, which you can find here. "I prefer the Schamberg-type extractor because it minimizes skin trauma," she explains. "It allows me to gently remove blackheads with precision." For whiteheads, however, Lee recommends professional extraction by a dermatologist, as piercing the skin yourself can lead to unnecessary damage.

Products containing salicylic acid or retinol are effective in removing blackheads and whiteheads.

4. Hard pop

Fans of Lee’s YouTube channel will recognize this term, which she coined to describe more complex or invasive procedures. "I use it to refer to surgeries that involve scalpels, stitches, and sometimes bleeding," she explained. Her hard pop compilation videos often showcase cyst removals.

5. Soft pop

In contrast to hard pops, soft pops are less invasive. "These typically involve using a comedone extractor or even your fingers," Lee said. Examples include blackhead removals. "There’s usually no blood, cuts, or sharp tools involved. These videos are often the most popular and serve as an introduction to the world of pimple popping."

6. Pilar Cyst

Lee explains that this cyst, also known as a “trichilemmal cyst,” is primarily filled with keratin and appears on the scalp 90% of the time. However, she notes, “they can develop in any area of the body with hair.” Originating from the hair root sheath or follicle, these cysts are common and often hereditary. “Visually, they’re fascinating because the cyst wall is thick, resembling the texture of an olive,” Lee adds. This thickness allows pilar cysts to often be removed intact, making the procedure both visually satisfying and effective.

7. Epidermoid Cyst

Epidermoid cysts, like pilar cysts, form near hair follicles but originate from a different part of the follicle. Lee describes them as the most prevalent type of cyst, comparing them to “a balloon beneath the skin.” She explains, “The skin folds inward, shedding into a confined space, which causes the cyst to grow as keratin accumulates.” On her YouTube channel, Lee has described their texture as “‘cheesy’ and sometimes accompanied by a strong odor.”

Unlike pilar cysts, which have thick walls, epidermoid cysts have thinner linings. This makes them more prone to breaking, inflammation, or infection. “If the cyst ruptures under the skin, it triggers a bodily reaction as the immune system tries to eliminate the foreign material,” Lee explains. This also poses a challenge during removal, as any remaining cyst material can lead to recurrence.

8. Dilated Pore of Winer

In her book Put Your Best Face Forward, Lee describes the dilated pore of Winer as “the ultimate comedone.” She explains that these are essentially oversized blackheads. “The pore is so enlarged that it alters the skin’s surface,” she notes. “They’re incredibly satisfying to remove because of their size, often coming out intact, which is surprising given how large they can be.”

9. Keratosis pilaris

Commonly referred to as “chicken skin,” Keratosis pilaris is “a type of dry skin and a form of eczema,” Lee explains. This condition is marked by small red or brown bumps, usually found on the upper arms, but they can also appear on the face, buttocks, or thighs. “The appearance and texture are often bothersome because the bumps make hair follicles more noticeable, creating a rough, uneven surface,” she says. “It’s a keratin plug that makes the skin feel prickly, leading many to avoid clothing that exposes their arms or shoulders.” To reduce these bumps, Lee recommends using exfoliating products.

10. Lipoma

In the second season premiere of her TLC show, Lee removed 68 lipomas from a patient’s forearms. “A lipoma is a cluster of benign fat cells located in the subcutaneous layer,” she explains. “It’s like a single fat cell multiplied to form its own isolated space under the skin, often appearing distinct from surrounding fat tissue.”

Lee notes that lipomas are non-cancerous and don’t require removal, but they can grow large and cause discomfort or embarrassment. Her patient had familial multiple lipomatosis, leading to numerous lipomas. “She felt very self-conscious, which is understandable. Even though they’re benign, they can significantly alter one’s appearance,” Lee says. “It highlights how often we expose our forearms without realizing it.”

11. Steatocystoma

Fans of Lee’s channel are familiar with steatocystomas, especially through her patient Momma Squishy, who had several of these cysts originating in the sebaceous glands. Lee explains that steatocystomas are rarer than pilar or epidermoid cysts. “These cysts have oil glands lining their walls, making them particularly satisfying to remove as they often emerge like melted butter,” she says, likening them to linguine noodles. “The sac is thin yet durable, allowing it to be extracted entirely with tweezers or forceps.”

12. Milia

Lee describes milia as small, keratin-filled cysts that are “quite common.” “They often come out like tiny pearls or birdseed,” she says. “They’re most frequently found around the eyes due to the thin skin in that area. Because they’re deeply embedded, squeezing them isn’t effective. A dermatologist should carefully nick the skin to remove them. Their removal is satisfying, as they can feel like small pebbles under the skin, which can be quite bothersome.”