12 Fascinating Facts About JNCO Jeans

In 1998, Fortune magazine famously stated, "If you can't pronounce 'JNCO,' you're hopelessly out of touch." JNCOs—whose name has been interpreted as "Judge None, Choose One," "Journey of the Chosen Ones," or simply "Jeans Co."—were the ultimate '90s fashion statement, initially embraced by skaters and rebels for their iconic wide-leg design. Though the brand's popularity was short-lived, its exaggerated style continues to live on through nostalgic social media posts and Onion jokes. Here are some lesser-known facts about JNCO jeans.

1. JNCO was an American-style brand created by two French brothers.

JNCO was established in 1985 by Haim and Yaakov Revah, two private brothers from France who go by the names "Milo" and "Jacques." They ran Revatex, a Los Angeles-based company that initially produced private-label clothing for retail stores before launching JNCOs in 1993. Los Angeles was the perfect birthplace for the brand: The Los Angeles Times reported that Milo was inspired by the city's vibrant culture, especially the wide-legged fashion popular among the Latino communities in east Los Angeles. Despite being born in Morocco and raised in France, the Revahs were deeply influenced by American culture. Milo once told The Times that he enjoyed watching reruns of Starsky and Hutch and Charlie's Angels.

2. JNCO consistently defied “conventionalism” during the 1990s.

From its inception, JNCO's goal, as stated on its website, was to “Defy the norm. Venture into the unknown. Celebrate uniqueness.” Throughout the '90s, the brand stayed true to its anti-mainstream ethos, positioning itself as a stark contrast to established labels like Levi's. JNCO's focus on surfers and skateboarders aged 12 to 20 was evident through its sponsorships of extreme sports events. In a 1998 Fortune piece, Nina Munk suggested that ads in magazines like Electric Ink and Thrasher targeted "trendy young (mostly white) males." The article also highlighted Revatex's strategy of gifting free apparel to influential figures of the '90s, such as extreme athletes Todd "Wild Man" Lyons and Sean Mallard, members of Limp Bizkit, and leading DJs in the rave community.

3. JNCO shifted to a “suburban” audience after its primary retailer went bankrupt.

In 1994, Merry-Go-Round, JNCO's primary retailer based in Joppa, Maryland, declared bankruptcy; by 1996, it had closed all its stores. Before the liquidation, the Revahs pulled all JNCO merchandise from Merry-Go-Round and enlisted Steven Sternberg to assist in repositioning the brand.

Sternberg, a New York retail expert known for his work with B.U.M. Equipment—another Los Angeles-based brand favored by mall-goers—advised them that "this is not an urban line." He recommended aligning JNCO with surf and skate labels such as Billabong and Quiksilver. "We avoided selling to stores that stocked FUBU or Cross Colours," Sternberg told Racked. "We repositioned JNCO from an urban brand to a strictly suburban one."

4. JNCO Jeans made up 10 percent of PacSun’s sales in 1997.

With its suburban rebranding complete, JNCO formed a successful partnership with Anaheim's emerging retailer Pacific Sunwear (PacSun). "This PacSun team has a knack for predicting trends," a Baltimore stock analyst told The Wall Street Journal in 1996. The analyst was referring to PacSun's collaboration with JNCO jeans, which later financial reports revealed was highly profitable for both parties. ''Levi's can be bought anywhere,'' Carl Womack, Pacific Sunwear's CFO, told The New York Times in 1997. ''Fashion-conscious teens don't come to us for that. Our edge lies in offering niche brands. JNCO has grown from almost nothing to roughly 10 percent of our business in just a year.''

5. JNCO’s (brief) success was fueled by its proactive marketing approach.

When asked about the key to their success in 1997, Tam Miller, vice president of sales and marketing, told The New York Times that staying connected with their audience was crucial. "We listen intently to their feedback. Near my home, there's a skate ramp where I frequently bring samples. The kids always swarm me, asking, 'What’s new?'" This hands-on approach was echoed by Joseph Janus, a 30-year-old JNCO marketing director, who was seen at a New York rock club engaging with teens, dressed in relatable attire. He even encouraged kids to swap their pants for JNCOs, as reported by Ad Age.

6. At one point, JNCO’s prospects seemed far more promising than Levi’s.

In a 1997 New York Times piece, 18-year-old Sam Norris listed Guess, Tommy Hilfiger, and JNCOs as his top jeans choices, dismissing Levi's as outdated. "Levi's just feel old-fashioned," he remarked. Meanwhile, Levi Strauss faced layoffs of around 1,000 employees due to sluggish sales and rising expenses. In contrast, JNCO was thriving: Ad Age estimated its 1997 sales between $40 million and $100 million, soaring to $186.9 million by 1998 at its peak.

7. JNCOs were prohibited in Orange County, California schools.

In 1998, The Los Angeles Times reported that Orange County schools banned wide-leg jeans, including JNCO and Kikwear. School officials cited concerns over students tripping on the baggy fabric or using the excess material to conceal weapons. Some students believed the ban had underlying motives, associating the pants with gang activity. "They think it’s gang-related," one student said. "But no matter what you wear, if someone has an issue with you, they’ll target you anyway."

8. Fake JNCO jeans flooded the Chicago market.

Revatex and PacSun weren’t the only ones cashing in on the wide-leg jeans trend of the '90s. By the mid-'90s, counterfeiters in Chicago were exploiting the craze, as reported by The Chicago Tribune. Revatex executives visiting Chicago to grow their JNCO market found numerous stores selling imitation JNCOs. The company had to enlist a private investigation firm to combat the counterfeit products. "There are instances where counterfeiters beat you to the market," Karl Manders, a CEO involved in Revatex's anti-counterfeiting efforts, told The Tribune.

9. JNCO jeans experienced a sharp sales decline in 1999.

After dominating the denim scene from 1995 to 1998—with sales skyrocketing from $36 million to $186.9 million—JNCO faced a downturn in 1999. Racked noted that sales plummeted to $100 million that year. As a result, Revatex closed its Los Angeles facility, leaving 250 employees without jobs.

In 1999, The New York Times published "Levi's Blues," an in-depth look at the iconic denim brand. The article quoted a 16-year-old from Las Vegas, New Mexico, who stated that JNCO was "more last year": "Now it’s all about Polo, Tommy Hilfiger, and Boss," he said. Author Hal Espen highlighted that JNCO’s sales were "dropping significantly":

"As sources at Villa Linda Mall [in Santa Fe, New Mexico] explained, the ultra-baggy, 'thuggish' style is losing popularity, with teens opting for a more preppy aesthetic. 'Not skinny jeans,' one teen clarified, 'but definitely not oversized either.' This could signal another fashion shift. Wouldn’t that be interesting?"

10. Hot Topic declared JNCOs “uncool.”

In 2000, Cindy Levitt, Hot Topic’s merchandise manager, told The Los Angeles Times that JNCOs no longer fit her store’s edgy image. "JNCOs are still seen at raves," she said, "but they’ve become too mainstream for our customers. They’re sold in too many mall stores." Levitt referenced JNCO’s widespread availability at "ordinary" retailers like J.C. Penney—where, in 1998, JNCO was the best-selling brand for young men—as well as PacSun, Ron Jon Surf Shop, and The Buckle.

11. JNCOs returned in 2015—though not exactly as fans remembered them.

Thanks to Guotai Litian, a Chinese trading company that acquired JNCO for a seven-figure sum, and the cyclical trends of fashion, JNCOs made a comeback in 2015 as a versatile denim brand. While the iconic wide-leg jeans remained part of the "Heritage collection" with leg openings of 20 to 23 inches, the brand also embraced the athleisure trend. Joseph Cohen, Guotai USA’s strategic planning director, told TODAY that the new collection targeted a different audience: individuals aged "20 to 40."

12. JNCOs made a comeback under new ownership in 2019.

In 2018, Milo Rivah reclaimed the JNCO license and, alongside his daughter Camilla, revitalized the brand, addressing past quality concerns. By June 2019, they reintroduced JNCO with a focus on its signature wide-leg designs, offering eight styles—including a 50-inch-wide pair inspired by the iconic "Crime Scenes" jeans—priced between $130 and $250. For those eager to revisit the '90s, JNCO jeans are available on their official website.