Buzz
A sneaker enthusiast inspects a pair of KAWS x Air Jordan IV sneakers during a special release event at the Overkill sneaker store in Berlin, Germany. Several sneakerheads camped out for five days to get their hands on these rare, limited-edition kicks. So, how do you maintain their pristine condition? Maja Hitij/Getty ImagesKey Insights
- Proper sneaker care not only extends their lifespan but also keeps them looking great. The correct cleaning techniques depend on the material, such as avoiding machine washing for suede.
- Regular upkeep, such as inserting a shoe tree, helps retain the shape of your sneakers and prevents creasing. Using specialty products like leather paint can also refresh or alter the color of your shoes with ease.
- Leather conditioners should be applied occasionally to prevent the leather from becoming dry or cracked, ensuring your sneakers stay fresh and durable for longer.
If you call sneakers "just shoes" in front of someone with a closet full of Jordans, you’re likely to get a serious side-eye, followed by an impassioned defense of why sneakers are not only essential but downright mandatory in today’s fashion world. But even if you’re not splurging on your footwear, you probably don’t want to walk around with worn-out shoes either. We spoke with Richard Brown, founder of Ohio-based Proof Culture and an expert in custom sneaker design and restoration, to get his top tips for keeping your sneakers fresh and clean.
If you're wondering why bother cleaning sneakers when you can easily grab a new pair off the discount shelf, you're missing out. For many, sneakers hold deep emotional value. "Every shoe has a story; I believe that at its core," Brown shares. "I have shoes, and I remember exactly where and when I bought them, and what was going on in my life at that moment that made me excited enough to get them."
There’s also the matter of value—some sneakers are rare, limited-edition items. The most sought-after models can even command impressive sums years later. For example, a pair of 1985 Nike Air Jordan 1s worn by Michael Jordan sold for a whopping $560,000 at a Sotheby’s auction in May, far exceeding its estimated value of $100,000 to $150,000.
However, the majority of sneakers won’t fetch that kind of price—and that’s perfectly fine. "Most of the time, there’s a sentimental reason why someone wants to restore their sneakers," Brown notes. So, here are five essential tips on how to properly clean your sneakers:
1. Get to Know Your Shoe
Proof Culture brought these Adidas sneakers back to life, almost as good as new. Proof CultureThink of sneakers like laundry. Just as you wouldn’t mix polyester and silk in the same wash, your shoes deserve similar care. Sneakers require attention because they come in various materials such as suede, leather, and canvas. Plus, the cleaning method you use depends on the shoe’s age.
"Restoring each shoe is a personal journey," Brown says, noting that most canvas and leather sneakers can be machine washed for a quick clean unless they're older—after seven years, sneaker glue begins to degrade. But take heed: "Throw a pair of suede sneakers in the wash, and it's game over," he warns.
Not sure what your sneakers are made of? Check the brand and style online for a detailed product description.
2. Perform a Sink Scrub
If you're hesitant to toss your cherished sneakers in the wash, try a simple hand-cleaning method. Brown recommends adding a small amount of dish detergent (he prefers Ivory) to the sink, then filling it with cold water until it's bubbly. (Avoid putting soap directly on the shoe or brush as detergent dye could alter the shoe's color.) Next, use a medium-bristled brush to gently scrub the shoe.
"Don’t fully submerge the shoe in water," Brown advises. He explains that improper drying can lead to issues like mold and sole separation. For those who learn better visually, they can watch this video by Proof Culture restoration artist Mone, who uses simple household tools to get the job done.
3. Paint With Caution and Care
Your local department store may have an aisle filled with shoe whiteners that promise gleaming results, but Brown warns against using these inexpensive products. "The issue with shoe whiteners is they almost never match the actual color of your shoe. Many shoes are an off-white hue, not pure white," he explains. Additionally, these whiteners aren’t formulated for different types of leather. The final result, he says, "usually looks terrible."
If you’re not keen on paying for professional services and have a steady hand, Brown suggests using a specific brand of paints designed for leather called Angelus. This brand is particularly favored by Jordan owners since they offer colors that match certain models. "You don't need to mix the colors," Brown says, adding that the paint quality ensures it’s absorbed by the leather instead of just sitting on top of it.
4. Apply Leather Conditioner
"Many people forget that leather is just skin. Our skin dries out and cracks, and the same happens to shoes," Brown explains. "Occasional conditioning can restore the shine and prevent cracking. Do this a couple of times a year or whenever the leather begins to look dry."
When using leather conditioner, remember that less is more. "A little goes a long way," Brown advises. Apply a small amount on a white microfiber cloth, rub it onto the leather, and let it sit for three minutes. Then, use the dry part of the cloth to buff it out. Brown recommends Lexol, a brand originally intended for car leather.
5. Store with a Shoe Tree
A common issue among sneaker collectors is buying shoes that are too large because they’re so rare that finding them in the right size is nearly impossible, according to Brown. This over-sizing often results in creases at the toes. "Shoe trees not only help prevent creases but also reshape your shoes if they're starting to curl up," he explains. "If the shoes have moisture or an odor, the shoe tree will help absorb it."
Laces need some attention as well! To refresh them, take a small bowl of water and mix in a bit of mild dish detergent. "Place the laces in the bowl, then rub them together with your hands. Rinse and repeat two or three times," advises Brown. For any fraying or loose ends, use a heat gun or hair dryer. "Carefully apply heat to the laces, and they’ll look brand new again," he adds.
