A comprehensive look at microdermabrasion and how it works for skin rejuvenation.

Microdermabrasion has emerged as a popular skincare technique, gaining fame after its rise from Hollywood to mainstream use. It's touted as an 'instant facelift'—a more affordable and less invasive alternative to procedures like plastic surgery, chemical peels, and Botox injections. Recently, it's gained popularity among men as well, who are opting for it over cosmetic surgery.

What exactly is microdermabrasion, what benefits does it offer, and how does it impact your skin? Is a professional needed, or can you do it yourself? In this article, we'll dive into the science of microdermabrasion, explore the treatment experience, and examine its effects on your complexion.

The Fundamentals of Microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion is a broad term used to describe the process of using tiny abrasive particles to exfoliate the outermost layer of skin. This technique is employed in various treatments, including medical procedures, salon services, and even over-the-counter creams and scrubs that can be applied at home. It is most commonly performed on the face, chest, neck, arms, or hands. To fully understand how microdermabrasion works, it’s important to first learn how the skin functions.

Your skin consists of two main layers: the epidermis and the dermis. The epidermis is the outermost layer, made up of dead skin cells sitting on top of a layer of cells that are maturing. The topmost part of the epidermis is called the stratum corneum. This layer acts as a protective barrier, preventing most substances from penetrating the deeper layers of skin.

When you apply creams or lotions, some moisture can pass through the stratum corneum, but only a limited amount. This layer is also where minor skin issues such as fine wrinkles and blemishes tend to appear.

Microdermabrasion focuses on the stratum corneum. As it only targets the epidermis (and not the dermis), it’s more accurate to refer to it as micro-epi-dermabrasion. Treating deeper skin layers could cause pain and damage, and may result in embedding the tiny abrasive grains permanently in the skin.

Effects of Microdermabrasion

Whether performed at home using a product or professionally with specialized equipment, the core principle of microdermabrasion remains the same. The process works by disrupting or removing the stratum corneum, prompting the body to perceive this as a minor injury and replace the lost skin cells with fresh, new ones. In the first hour after treatment, mild swelling (edema) and redness (erythema) typically occur. These effects can last anywhere from an hour to two days, depending on the individual.

This procedure offers several benefits. Once the stratum corneum is removed, the skin’s surface improves, and the healing process promotes the growth of new skin cells, resulting in a smoother texture. Visible skin imperfections, such as sun damage, blemishes, and fine lines, are also reduced. Additionally, without the stratum corneum acting as a barrier, the absorption of medicinal creams and lotions improves, allowing their active ingredients and moisture to penetrate deeper layers of skin. Since microdermabrasion can temporarily dehydrate the skin, moisturizing creams are always applied afterward.

Initial research suggests that consistent microdermabrasion treatments, spaced out at regular intervals, could impact the growth of deeper skin layers, gradually removing more stubborn blemishes. Evidence indicates that the rapid depletion of moisture from the skin might trigger the deeper layers to accelerate the production of healthy cells, pushing them to the surface faster.

Microdermabrasion: Professional vs. Home Treatments

When opting for professional microdermabrasion at a clinic or salon, the technician or dermatologist uses a specialized device. This tool delivers a fine spray of tiny crystals—such as aluminum oxide, sodium chloride, or sodium bicarbonate—and collects the exfoliated skin cells and residual crystals.

The vacuum function of the device serves four main purposes:

Some devices combine all these functions into a single circuit, known as Venturi suction. More advanced models use two separate circuits: one for shooting the crystals and another for collecting them.

There are also advanced devices that use a single diamond-tipped wand to exfoliate the skin instead of a stream of particles.

The technician moves the tool carefully over the treatment area, applying consistent pressure to remove the stratum corneum without impacting the deeper layers of skin. A typical session involves one to three passes with the device. Afterward, the patient is usually instructed to use specialized lotions and creams on the treated area between sessions. These help to rehydrate the skin and encourage the growth of healthier new skin.

The cost of these professional treatments typically ranges from $100 to $200 per session, and several treatments spread out over the course of the year are generally recommended for optimal results.

Home Treatment

As an alternative to visiting a clinic or salon, there are also microdermabrasion creams and scrubs available for at-home use. These products contain the same crystals found in professional treatments but often omit the need for a specialized tool.

You apply the products to your face, neck, or arms using your hands, gently massaging the crystals into your skin. This helps them grab and exfoliate the dead skin cells from the stratum corneum. Some of these creams also include nourishing ingredients and moisturizers, so you not only remove the dead skin but also hydrate the newly exposed skin in one step.