A Guide to Installing Wall Treatments

There are plenty of alternatives to paint and wallpaper for covering your walls, especially if your walls need significant repairs. If your surfaces are far from perfect, consider some creative options for wall treatments. In this article, we’ll show you how to install stucco, fabric, wood paneling, brick, cork, or mirrored tiles, and even how to set up a wall safe.

We’ll kick things off in the next section with a step-by-step guide on how to stucco a wall.

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How to Apply Stucco to a Wall

Repairing road-map walls and ceilings can be challenging, but disguising them is simple. Conceal the cracks and refresh the space with a coat of stucco paint.

Required Tools:

Required Materials:

Time Required:

Approximately 4 hours for a small room, plus additional time for preparation as needed

Getting Ready to Paint

Select either textured or stucco paint based on the extent of damage to your walls and ceiling. Lightly textured paints, which contain sand and other small particles, can hide minor imperfections but won’t cover major cracks. For heavily damaged walls, use a thicker stucco paint, which can be applied with a trowel or roller. Always check the paint label carefully and purchase enough—badly damaged walls will require more paint. Often, stucco paint covers only about 25 square feet per gallon.

Prepare the surfaces before applying the stucco. If the walls are clean and without large cracks, you can leave the furniture in place. However, for ceilings or more damaged surfaces, it’s best to move the furniture out. Remove drapes, pictures, and rugs, then gather any remaining furniture in the center of the room and cover it with plastic drop cloths. Secure drop cloths to the floor and baseboards with masking tape. Protect light fixtures, woodwork, and electrical faceplates with masking tape.

If the room is particularly dirty or greasy, clean the surfaces using a mixture of strong household detergent and hot water. Rinse and allow the surfaces to dry thoroughly. Small cracks will be filled by the paint, but for larger cracks or deep gouges, apply spackling compound, pressing it firmly and smoothing it out with a putty knife or paint scraper. Let the patches dry for at least 8 hours. If the compound shrinks or cracks, add more and smooth it out again, then allow it to dry fully. No sanding is required.

Deciding on the Desired Effect

Apply lightly textured paint with a roller, using the roller cover specified by the manufacturer. For thick stucco paint, use a loop-textured roller cover or a trowel. Before you begin, practice on a piece of scrap plywood or hardboard until you achieve the desired effect. Use a roller for a uniform stippled finish, a trowel for a more random texture, or a stiff brush for a rougher appearance.

The paint will begin to set depending on humidity; in a heated room, this can take as little as 15 minutes. After completing a section, return and further texture it to achieve different effects. You can create waves or curves with a stiff brush, cross-hatching with a metal comb, or a sponged effect with a sponge. For a bark-like texture, wrap sturdy cord around a roller and roll it up and down over the fresh paint. Generally, the thicker the paint, the coarser the texture and the better the coverage of damage.

Applying the Paint

Once you've settled on your texture and mastered the technique, begin painting the surfaces you plan to stucco. Start with the ceiling, applying paint in small sections and texturing as you go. Paint the edges and corners first, then cover the main area. For tight spots, halve a loop-textured roller cover and use a 3-inch roller; or, if you're troweling, use a putty knife. Repeat the same method for the walls, starting at a corner and moving around the room, applying and texturing as you work.

Allow the paint to dry for at least 8 hours, following the manufacturer's drying instructions. Once the stucco is dry, remove the masking tape and pick up the dropcloths. Clean up using water and liquid detergent.

Stucco is just one of many ways to refresh your walls. In the upcoming section, you'll discover how to cover a wall with fabric.

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How to Cover Walls with Fabric

Fabric is a wall covering that requires minimal patching; any relatively smooth wall surface will work well.

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Materials:

Time: approximately 1 day

Choosing and Purchasing the Fabric

Opt for the widest fabric available. Determine the number of vertical strips you need based on the height of the walls and calculate how much fabric to purchase. If the fabric features a repeating design, align the pattern on adjacent strips, similar to wallpaper; you should add at least 2 extra yards. If you intend to finish the top and bottom edges with ribbon, factor in the necessary footage and add at least 2 yards. It's best to purchase both the ribbon and fabric at the same time.

Measuring and Cutting the Fabric

Begin in the least noticeable corner of the room, such as behind the door. Measure along the ceiling from the corner a distance equal to the width of the fabric, subtracting approximately 1/4 inch. Place the plumb bob at this point and snap a chalk line to mark the edge for the first fabric panel. Measure the height of the room from floor to ceiling.

Lay out the fabric on a long table with the face side up. Cut the first piece of fabric to match the height of the room, adding 2 extra inches. Continue unrolling and cutting the fabric for the entire room, carefully matching the pattern to the first panel.

To find the precise length of each panel, measure the height of the wall where the panel will hang and add 2 inches. Measure around windows and doors, cutting the fabric accordingly, and make sure to align the patterns on the shorter strips. Attach a numbered tag to each panel as you work to keep track of their order around the room.

Hanging the First Fabric Panel

Raise the first fabric panel into position against the wall at the marked corner. Fold the top edge of the panel under by 1 inch, holding it in place at both ends with your fingers. Smooth the fabric along the top edge of the wall, adjusting it so that the outer edge of the panel lines up precisely with the chalk line on the wall.

Carefully hold the fabric in place to ensure it aligns perfectly with the chalk line, and staple the folded top edge of the fabric to the wall. Place the staples about 1 inch apart, as close to the ceiling as possible, ensuring they are evenly spaced. If the fabric is particularly heavy or droops, apply a small amount of household glue to the folded edge and press it into place until the glue dries and holds.

Starting from the top of the wall, work your way down and staple the side edge of the fabric to the wall, about 1/4 inch from the edge. Place the staples evenly, about 1 inch apart, ensuring they are straight. Smooth the fabric as you go, keeping it aligned with the chalk line. Repeat the process for the opposite side of the fabric, positioning the staples 1/4 inch from the edge. At the bottom of the panel, fold the excess fabric under and staple it securely and smoothly along the baseboard.

Hanging Additional Fabric Panels

Before proceeding with more fabric, cut strips of stiff, lightweight cardboard that are 1/2 inch wide. You will need enough cardboard to cover each seam from floor to ceiling. Try to cut the strips as uniformly as possible, as their outlines will be visible under the fabric once it is in place.

To hang the second fabric panel, position it against the first, wrong side out, with the edges aligned. Leave an additional inch of fabric at the top. Ensure the edges of the panels are carefully matched. Place a few staples through the second panel, the first panel, and into the wall, about 1/2 inch in from the aligned edges. These staples are just temporary to hold the fabric in place and are not part of the final seam.

Place 1/2-inch-wide strips of cardboard along the matched edges of the panels, ensuring they are aligned perfectly. Staple the strips evenly to create a smooth, consistent edge without gaps or overlaps, and position the staples closely together.

Once the cardboard seam is securely fastened, pull the second fabric panel back over the cardboard strips to create a hidden seam. Smooth the fabric out from the joint, and staple it into place on the wall, starting from the center of the panel and working upward and downward. Keep the staples about 1/4 inch from the edge. At both the top and bottom, fold the excess fabric under and staple it neatly along the ceiling and baseboard. Use glue if needed to prevent the fabric from sagging.

For each new fabric panel, repeat the cardboard-strip method by stapling the cardboard to the back side of the panel, then folding the fabric over and securing it into place. Around windows and doors, cut the fabric with an extra inch on all sides, fold the excess under, and crease it smoothly with your fingers. Use staples only at the stress points—such as corners, seams, and around windows and doors—and if possible, rely on glue to attach the fabric.

Finishing the Final Panel

Once the last fabric panel is securely stapled in place, fold the edge of the first panel under the edge of the last one, creasing the seam carefully with your fingers. Avoid using staples on the final seam; instead, apply glue to hold the folded fabric in place until the adhesive sets.

Hiding the Staples at the Ceiling and Baseboard

To conceal the staples along the top and bottom edges, glue a continuous piece of cloth ribbon or braid over the fabric’s edge all around the room. Ensure the ends are tucked under neatly to prevent fraying. Alternatively, you could use narrow molding strips, tacking them over the stapled fabric along the baseboard.

Paneling is an excellent solution for walls that are too damaged to support other treatments. We will discuss this option in the next section.

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How to Panel a Room

Paneling a room with plywood or hardboard sheets is an excellent way to finish a basement or hide heavily damaged walls. For smooth and level interior walls, you can install the paneling directly over the old surface; if not, create a solid foundation using 1×2 or 1×3 furring strips. Never install paneling directly onto an unfinished stud wall. Due to the heavy nature of the panels, it's best to have an assistant help with the installation.

Tools Required:

Materials Needed:

Estimated Time: Approximately 2 to 3 days

Measuring and Purchasing Paneling

Before purchasing wall paneling, determine how many panels you'll need. Since standard panels come in 4×8 feet (or 4x10 feet for taller ceilings), you only need to calculate based on the width. Measure the perimeter of the room in feet and divide by 4. For each door, subtract 1/2 panel, and for each window, subtract 1/4 panel. The final result will tell you how many panels are required. Have the lumber dealer help you calculate the quantities of furring strips, polyethylene plastic sheeting, adhesive, and nails, and be sure to buy a bundle of shims. Purchase prefinished molding for the ceiling and baseboard by the foot to match your panels.

Preparing to Install the Paneling

At least 48 hours prior to installation, bring the panels into the room where they will be placed. Lay down several furring strips on the floor and position the first panel flat atop the strips. Stack the remaining panels in the same manner, with furring strips between them, to allow them to acclimate to the room's temperature and humidity.

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Ensure that the walls of the room to be paneled are smooth and level. Start by removing any baseboards and molding. With the help of a partner, hold a long, straight board horizontally against each wall surface. Move it up and down the wall to detect any high spots or depressions. Lay down plastic dropcloths to protect the floor. Fill in any low areas with spackling compound, applying it with a putty knife or paint scraper, and smooth out high spots using coarse-grit sandpaper.

Installing Furring Strips: For walls that are uneven or cracked, you will need to attach 1×2 or 1×3 furring strips to create a solid base for the paneling. Use a magnetic stud finder to locate the studs on each wall and mark the positions. Snap a chalked plumb line from each mark to create guidelines for where the furring strips should be nailed.

Attach the furring strips horizontally across the walls using 8-penny common nails, securing them into the marked studs. Place one strip along the ceiling and one at the floor, then space additional strips 16 inches apart, center to center, between them. If you encounter low spots, place shims behind the strips, and drive nails through both the furring strip and shim to secure them to the wall.

Once all the horizontal furring strips are in place, cut vertical strips to fit between them. Install vertical strips from floor to ceiling in each corner, nailing them along the marked stud lines. Similarly, nail vertical strips at each point where two panels will meet. Paint these vertical strips with a color similar to the panels to ensure they aren't visible behind the finished wall.

Preparing Masonry Walls: For masonry walls, special treatment is required. Attach furring strips horizontally using steel masonry nails, placing one strip at the floor, one at the ceiling, and others spaced 16 inches apart. Install vertical strips at the corners and at panel joints, adding shims as needed. Paint the vertical strips where the joints will be, and allow them to dry. Then, cover the walls with heavy polyethylene sheet plastic from floor to ceiling to protect the paneling from moisture. Staple the plastic evenly and securely over the furring strips, making sure it’s stretched smoothly across the wall.

Final Preparation: Before you begin installing the paneling, remove the cover plates from switches and outlets. Pull the electrical boxes outward to align with the paneling's thickness, taking care not to disturb the existing wiring.

Cutting the Paneling

Once the walls are ready, position the panels around the room to get a preview of how they will appear. Arrange the panels in a way that balances full and partial ones, ensuring the wood grains match. Label the back of each panel, starting from one corner. Afterward, restack the panels in their order, with the first one on top.

To trim the first panel, measure the distance from the floor to the ceiling at several points along the first 4-foot section. A 1/4-inch gap must be maintained at both the floor and ceiling for wood expansion. Mark the panel to be cut, subtracting 1/2 inch from the measured height to accommodate the gaps. Lay the panel face down over two sawhorses, supported by two long 2 × 4's to prevent bending, and then cut it to size with a fine-toothed saber saw or circular saw. Always wear safety goggles during the cutting process.

Scribing the Corners

To ensure the first panel fits perfectly in the corner, it must be scribed. Stand the panel vertically in the corner and use shims to lift it 1/4 inch off the floor. Verify its vertical alignment using a level.

You may notice an uneven gap between the panel's edge and the corner. With your assistant holding the panel in place, set a scribing compass at the top of the panel, positioning the point in the corner. Mark a fine pencil line down the panel by holding the compass steady and drawing along the corner. Trim the panel carefully along this line using a saber saw or a fine-toothed coping saw.

Installing the Paneling

To install the panels, use nails, adhesive, or both, depending on the manufacturer's instructions. For heavy plywood panels, nails should always be used, while even lighter panels should be nailed along the floor and ceiling. The floor and ceiling moldings will cover the nails.

Installation with Nails: To install panels with nails, use 2-penny finishing nails over furring strips, or 4-penny finishing nails if the paneling is being installed directly over an existing wall. Alternatively, use the colored nails provided by the paneling manufacturer. Carefully position the first trimmed panel into place in the corner, setting the bottom on shims again to maintain the 1/4-inch gap from the floor. Ensure the panel is plumb.

Begin nailing at the center of the corner edge, either on the furring strip or the stud line. Drive a series of nails across the center of the panel, spacing them 12 inches apart. Use a nail set to sink the nails without damaging the surface of the panel. Move upward to the next horizontal furring strip, 16 inches higher, and repeat the process, working outward from the center of the panel. Continue nailing all the way up to the ceiling and down to the floor, setting nails 12 inches apart along each horizontal furring strip or stud line. Once the entire panel is secured, drive nails every 6 inches around the edges, then remove the shims from underneath the bottom edge.

Move on to the next panel, positioning it against the previous one. As you proceed, measure and trim each new panel to fit. Scribe the panels in the corners. When working around obstacles such as doors, windows, or outlets, use the protective paper sheets that come between the panels. Press a sheet of paper against the wall, precisely where the panel will be installed, and have your assistant tape it securely at the top and bottom. Trace the outline of the obstruction onto the paper with a pencil.

Remove the tape from the paper and cut out the traced areas. Place the paper on the panel and trace the cutouts onto the panel itself. For larger openings, use a saber saw or circular saw, while for smaller holes, drill pilot holes and use a coping saw or keyhole saw to cut out holes for switch plates.

Installation with Adhesive: To install the panels using adhesive, choose the brand recommended by the panel manufacturer and apply it with a caulking gun. Start by positioning the first scribed and trimmed panel in the corner. Apply a solid bead of adhesive over the furring strips the panel will cover, or use a grid pattern if you're paneling over a solid wall. Rest the panel on shims to maintain the 1/4-inch gap at the floor. Once the panel is correctly positioned, drive a row of nails across the top at 12-inch intervals.

At this point, review the instructions for the adhesive you're using. Depending on the type, you may need to pull the panel away from the wall until the adhesive becomes tacky. If so, pull the bottom of the panel out from the wall and support it with a piece of scrap wood for the recommended time. Once the panel is ready, remove the support and press the panel flat against the wall.

Once the panel is aligned flat against the wall, secure it permanently by placing a padded wood block over the surface and tapping it firmly into position with a hammer. Use the hammer and block to ensure the panel is fully in place. Finally, nail it along the floor and ceiling edges at 6-inch intervals, and remove the shims from beneath the bottom edge.

After securing the first panel with nails, proceed around the room, measuring and adjusting each panel as needed. Ensure each panel is completely installed before moving on to the next one.

Finishing the Paneling

To finish off the newly paneled room, fill all the nail holes with wood filler. Then, install the prefinished ceiling and baseboard molding, making clean miter cuts at the corners with a miter box and a fine-tooth saw, and secure the molding with nails.

While brick homes are less common today, you can still bring that brick aesthetic into your house. In the following section, you'll learn how to cover a wall with brick.

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How to Cover a Wall With Brick

Interior brick walls don't have to be made of plastic; real bricks are just as simple to use. Choose thin bricks designed for indoor use and secure them with adhesive.

Essential Tools:

Required Materials:

Time Required: A few hours for a small wall, once the wall surface has been prepared.

Purchasing the Bricks

Before purchasing the bricks, sketch the wall layout on graph paper. Draw the brick arrangement and determine the number of bricks needed for corners, if applicable. Interior face bricks are sold in packages that cover 5 square feet. To figure out how many packages to buy, calculate the total square footage and divide by 5. It's wise to purchase an additional package of bricks and a few extra corner bricks to account for any waste. Ask the supplier for advice on how much adhesive and solvent to purchase.

Preparing the Wall Surface

Get the wall ready before you apply the bricks. If the surface is extremely dirty or greasy, wash it with a powerful household detergent. Lay down plastic dropcloths to protect the floor. Scrape off any paint and fill any cracks or holes with spackling compound, allowing it to dry before smoothing it with fine-grit sandpaper. Use a wall-cleaning sponge to remove all dust.

For papered walls, remove any peeling wallpaper. Use a large paintbrush to apply wallpaper remover, let it sit according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and carefully scrape off all the old paper. Rinse the wall with clean water to remove any remaining paste and let it dry. Apply wall sizing to seal the surface, using one or two coats as directed by the manufacturer, and allow it to dry thoroughly.

Planning and Cutting the Bricks

To measure the spacing between bricks, use a 3/8-inch dowel rod as you work. Use a line level to mark the bottom edge of the bricks along the floor, and draw the line with chalk. Small gaps below the line can be filled with brick adhesive. Lay two rows of bricks on the floor with 3/8 inch spacing, allowing you to visualize their placement on the wall. Arrange the bricks so that those at the right end of each row will match the size of those at the left end after cutting.

Wear safety goggles and cut the end bricks to the correct size. Score both sides of each brick with a cold chisel and hammer, then place a rag over the brick and break it into two pieces with a firm hammer strike. Use tile nippers to remove any leftover pieces along the broken edge, and smooth the edge with a coarse file if needed.

Placing the Bricks

After confirming the layout and cutting the end bricks, apply a smooth, even layer of adhesive to the wall using a notched trowel. Begin at one corner, along the chalk line marking the bottom row of bricks, and work in sections of about 3 square feet at a time. To set each brick, apply adhesive to the back, press it firmly into place, and twist it slightly as you position it. Use the dowel rod to maintain a consistent 3/8-inch gap between each brick.

Continue working your way across and up the wall, installing one row of bricks at a time, maintaining a consistent 3/8-inch gap between them. After completing each row, use the line level to ensure it remains straight. When you encounter a corner, make sure to use corner bricks designed for that purpose.

Once all the bricks are in place, use adhesive to fill in any gaps along the edges of the wall. Smooth out any joints that need adjustment with the dowel rod, and wipe off any adhesive from the brick faces using a rag soaked in adhesive solvent. Dispose of the dropcloths and solvent-soaked rags properly.

If you're aiming for a unique look for your home, consider using mirror or cork tiles. We'll dive into these options in the next section.

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How to Install Mirror or Cork Wall Tiles

Cork tiles bring warmth to a room and double as a bulletin board, while mirror tiles can make a small room appear larger and are much more affordable than traditional plate-glass mirrors. Both types of tiles are simple to install.

Tools:

Materials:

Time: Approximately 2 hours for an 8×10-foot area

Planning the Wall and Buying Materials

Purchase precut 1-foot square mirror or cork tiles. Before buying, measure the wall or door you plan to cover and sketch it on graph paper. Decide on the tile arrangement – a straightforward block design is the simplest, though a diamond pattern or other layout is also an option. If tiling just part of the wall, no cutting will be needed. For full-wall tiling, plan your arrangement to minimize the need for edge cuts.

Determine the number of tiles required; if any tiles need to be cut, make sure to purchase a few extra to account for wastage. If the tiles don't come with adhesive backing, buy heavy-duty double-stick wall-mount tape to secure them.

Preparing the Wall for Tiles

Before you begin tiling, ensure the wall is clean and smooth. Remove any peeling paint or wallpaper and make any necessary adjustments to the surface to make it even.

Begin placing tiles at the bottom corner of the wall or at the floor along one side of the area. Use a chalk line at the corner, and check its alignment with a level to ensure it's vertical; adjust the line if needed. If the corner isn't perfectly vertical, it's often better to stop the tile placement before reaching the corner instead of forcing them to fit by cutting.

Installing the Tiles

To install the first row of tiles, begin with the corner or bottom tile. If the tiles already have adhesive on the back, remove the backing paper as you place each tile. If not, cut five 1.5-inch strips of heavy-duty double-stick tape. Apply tape to each corner of the tile, parallel to the edges, and add a piece in the center. Align the edge of the tile with the chalk line, pressing it firmly but gently into place. Continue setting tiles up the chalk line for the first row, placing each tile vertically with its bottom edge against the tile below it. Repeat across the area, butting the edge of each tile against the previous row.

Cutting Tiles

For cork tiles, measure and mark the desired width with chalk. Cut the tile using a sharp utility knife, using a yardstick as a guide; for thin tiles, heavy-duty scissors may work better. For mirror tiles, measure and mark where you need the cut. Lay the tiles face-up on newspaper to protect your work surface. Wear safety goggles, then score the tiles at the marked point with a glass cutter, following the yardstick. After scoring, turn the tile over and snap it quickly to break it along the scored line, while wearing work gloves.

Finishing the Wall

Once all tiles are cut and installed, go over them to ensure they are securely attached. Gently but firmly press down on each tile, especially at the corners and center, to fully adhere the wall-mount tape to both the wall and the tile.

In the next section, you will learn how to install a wall safe.

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How to Build a Wall Safe

A small wall safe is a great solution for safeguarding your valuables at home, and it’s remarkably simple to install.

Essential Tools:

Materials Required:

Time: Approximately 4 hours

Choosing a Safe

Burglars typically prefer quick hits, so the chances of them breaking into or stealing a wall-safe are slim. Equally important, a wall safe offers protection against fire, as many models are designed to withstand temperatures up to 2000 degrees Fahrenheit for up to an hour. Safes come in a range of styles and types. Purchase the one that fits your needs from a lock and safe company. Check the telephone directory for listings.

Selecting the Ideal Location for Your Safe

The ideal spot for placing a safe is in a wall that divides off a closet area. Depending on the size, the safe’s depth could be between 6 and 10 inches or more, so it’s important to have sufficient backspace to fit it. If there’s no available wall space, the safe can be installed in the floor above a crawl space and covered with a trapdoor or a rug. It's best to choose a location away from high-traffic areas, such as under a pantry shelf or inside a kitchen base cabinet.

To install the safe into the wall, first pick the ideal location and use a magnetic stud finder to locate two parallel studs, typically spaced 16 inches apart. Mark these studs by drawing a vertical line to identify each one, as the safe will be placed between them. Measure the length of the safe and draw lines between the studs to outline the safe’s top, bottom, and sides.

Cutting Through the Wall

Using a brace and a 1/2-inch bit, drill holes at opposite corners of the outline, keeping the holes just inside the lines and touching them. Ensure that the holes are located within the studs so that once you expose the stud, it can act as a guide for vertical cutting. Cut the hole for the safe using a keyhole saw or saber saw. If necessary, clean up any uneven edges with a butt chisel. Remove the drywall above the studs where the safe's flanges will attach to the studs.

If there is a finished wall on the opposite side, remove the wall covering in the safe area on this side. Transfer the safe’s dimensions to this opposite wall, drill starting holes, and cut along the marked lines, making sure the hole on the opposite side aligns perfectly with the original. Do not cut drywall for the flanges of the safe on this side.

Constructing the Headers

Measure and cut four 2 × 4's to the right size for the headers, ensuring they fit snugly between the studs. For double headers, nail two 2 × 4's together using 16-penny common nails. Secure these double headers to the wall studs by toenailing, positioning one just below and one just above the spot where the safe will be installed.

Installing the Safe

The safe is secured to the studs by lag screws through its flanges. Position the safe in the hole and have a helper hold it steady from behind. Use a pencil to mark the locations of the lag screws on the studs. Remove the safe and drill pilot holes at these marked points using a 1/8-inch bit. Reinsert the safe, aligning it with the drilled holes, and have your helper hold it firmly in place. Drive the lag screws through the holes into the studs using an adjustable wrench, tightening them securely.

Once the safe is anchored into the wall, cover the flanges and lag screw heads with strips of scrap drywall. Attach the drywall with construction adhesive, and if needed, cut small holes for the screw heads in the gypsum board. Fill in the joints of the patches with spackling compound, allowing it to dry completely. Sand the patched areas smooth before finishing the wall.

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