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Image: VLG/Getty ImagesI am, in a way, the reluctant owner of what I humorously call my thumb face. It may sound a bit exaggerated, but I have a notably round face that doesn't quite highlight my cheekbones or jawline. As a result, I've become something of an expert at contouring—long before I even knew what it was called, I was using makeup to shape and define my face that would otherwise lack structure.
This means I’ve also experienced the struggles of bad contouring—streaky cheek lines, muddy chin straps, and so on. However, thanks to today’s well-formulated products, precise tools, and easy access to makeup artists through social media, we no longer have to rely on trial and error to achieve the perfect contour. In fact, you can master the art of everyday contouring in just five simple steps. Keep reading for our foolproof guide to sculpting your best face.
How to Perfectly Contour Your Face: A Step-by-Step Tutorial
1. Select the Right Product
Achieving a flawless contour comes down to choosing the right product in terms of both texture and shade. If you have oily skin, opt for powder formulations like the Make Up Forever Artist Longwear Skin-Fusing Contour Powder. For those with normal to dry skin, you have more options—you can choose a cream contour like the Milk Makeup Sculpt Cream Contour Stick
One of the key factors in contouring is selecting the right shade. While it’s possible to use bronzer as a contour, these two steps should be kept separate for a reason. Bronzer is designed to warm up your complexion, whereas contour mimics and enhances the natural shadows of your face. Bronzer tends to have a warmer, more orange tone, while contour shades should be cooler with a subtle gray undertone. Danessa Myricks’ Balm Contour offers a fantastic range of cool-toned shades, featuring nine different options.
A quick tip for application: While you can apply a contour stick directly to the face, we recommend picking up the product on a dense buffing brush and stamping it onto your face. This method gives you more control and precision, while helping you avoid streaky contour lines. For brushes, we love the Sephora Collection PRO Contour Brush #78, which has a short, dome-shaped bristle design that helps distribute product evenly. For blending, you can either use the same brush or opt for a fluffier one, like the larger side of the IT Cosmetics Heavenly Luxe Complexion Perfection Brush #7—it’s all about personal preference.
2. Sculpt the Cheekbones
Begin just above your cheekbone, or around the area where your sideburns start, and draw a diagonal line that extends down to the middle of your cheek. Use a light hand—you can always layer more product if needed, and harsh, defined lines are difficult to blend. Also, make sure to keep the contour along the side of your cheek, stopping before reaching the iris of your eye. Going past this point may disrupt the contour effect.
Blend the contour gently, buffing until there are no noticeable lines. According to makeup artist Dani Parkes, use upward strokes to lift the face and prevent dragging the contour down. And remember, it’s always better to blend too much than too little. Repeat this process on the other side of your face.
3. Contour the Hairline
Contouring the hairline can either lengthen or shorten the appearance of your face, depending on how you apply the product. To shorten the face, apply contour along the forehead, sweeping the product back and forth along the hairline from one temple to the other, forming an upside-down U shape. Lightly build up the color with a gentle touch, using an even lighter application at the center of your forehead and around the temples. For a smooth, natural finish, lightly blend the contour into the hairline.
To make your face appear longer, apply contour along both sides of the hairline without connecting the two lines at the center. Use light sweeping motions and blend slightly into the hairline to achieve a seamless look. Then, add a short diagonal line on your temples, where your eyebrows end, and blend it into the hairline.
4. Define the Jawline
Use short, light strokes to shade just below or along the edge of your jawline—this step is subjective, so experiment with placement until you find what works best for you. Start from the base of the jaw and work your way toward the chin (then go back toward the base of the jaw on the opposite side), blending down and slightly extending the product onto the neck.
5. Sculpt the Eyes and Nose
Contouring the eyes and nose is optional, but this particular step is more so. Personally, I sculpt my eyes but skip the nose. To contour the eyes, pick up some product on a fluffy eyebrow brush—something like the Sigma E25 Blending Brush works well, as it allows you to load product on both sides and carve out the eye shape. You could also use a dome-shaped brush. Run the brush along the crease of the eyes, using small circular motions to blend it out. For the nose, makeup artist Parkes suggests following the crease line from the inner eyelid, just below the brow, onto the nose, using it as a guide. Don't apply the contour past the tip of the nose. The closer you place the lines to the bridge of the nose, the more defined the effect. Repeat on the other eye and the opposite side of the nose. If you want to contour the tip of the nose, use your brush to draw a light horizontal line connecting the two lines just above the tip.
