Are underarm whitening creams truly effective?

Throw your hands up in the air like you're carefree. This is a common theme in music, from MC Frontalot to Miley Cyrus. Enjoy the night with your arms raised and underarms on display. While this is fun for many, it can be awkward for those dealing with underarm darkening or uneven skin tone.

Underarm discoloration can stem from various causes. Factors like pregnancy, diabetes, or even shaving irritation can lead to darker skin in the armpit area (See What causes underarm darkening?). This condition, known as hyperpigmentation, occurs due to an overproduction of melanin in the underarms. Melanin is the natural pigment responsible for the color of your skin, hair, and eye irises. The level of melanin determines your skin tone, with higher amounts resulting in darker complexions and lower amounts in lighter ones. Additionally, melanin production isn't fixed. Sun exposure can activate melanocytes, the cells that produce melanin, leading to a tan.

However, as mentioned, melanin production can sometimes become excessive, leading to hyperpigmentation in the underarm area and resulting in uneven skin tone. To address this issue, scientists have developed various skin-lightening agents that can be applied topically to affected areas. These creams are regulated and approved to reduce melanin production. Therefore, underarm whitening creams are indeed effective and can help alleviate this concern. On the downside, the active ingredients in these creams may cause skin irritation and have been associated with potential cancer risks, which is why they are strictly regulated. You can purchase milder over-the-counter options or consult a dermatologist for a stronger prescription formula.

Hydroquinone and Your Underarms

The term 'underarm whitening cream' can be somewhat misleading. While it is possible to bleach the underarms, this approach may not achieve the desired outcome. Most individuals with hyperpigmentation aim to balance their skin tone rather than create a stark contrast with bleached patches that are noticeably lighter than the surrounding skin.

Fortunately, underarm whitening creams do not function as traditional bleaches. Instead, high-quality formulations typically include two key components: one that acts as a concealer with added pigment to mask the issue, and another active ingredient that halts further melanin production.

One of the most widely used active ingredients is hydroquinone. This small molecule disrupts the biochemical pathways responsible for melanin production, slowing or stopping it entirely. As a result, the underarm skin tone becomes more uniform. But what about the existing melanin that causes dark, uneven patches? If you have healthy skin, your body will naturally repair and renew the skin over time, much like how a suntan gradually fades.

Hydroquinone, however, comes with its own set of issues. It can irritate the skin and is suspected to have carcinogenic properties. Consequently, many countries have prohibited its use, and in the U.S., its concentration is limited to 2 percent in over-the-counter products and 4 percent in prescription formulas [source: Bailly]. Alternatives like arbutin and kojic acid can also lighten skin but face similar challenges and are difficult to stabilize for long-term use. Interestingly, kojic acid is found in Japanese sake. Could enjoying a drink be a more enjoyable solution than applying creams?

Next, raise your hands high for more fascinating links about underarms.