Aspic: There's Something Captivating About That Quiver

"Regardless of how aspic actually tastes — and it may not be for everyone — there's an undeniable fascination with its jiggle. It's a dish that draws the attention of onlookers," says food writer and International Culinary Center graduate, Hannah Selinger.

But what exactly is aspic, and how is it created?

What Is Aspic?

Encyclopaedia Britannica describes aspic as a savory clear jelly crafted from a liquid stock derived from simmering bones of beef, veal, chicken, or fish. The mixture solidifies when chilled due to the natural gelatin extracted from the tendons in the bones. Sometimes, commercial sheet or powdered gelatin is added to ensure a firm set.

"In Western culinary tradition, aspic refers to any gelatin, whether sweet or savory, made from the collagen in the connective tissues and skin of animals or fish," says Ken Albala, history professor at the University of the Pacific in Stockton, California, in an email. "It can be made from chicken bones and cartilage, pig skin, beef, or even fish." Albala is working on a book titled "Gelatin: Past and Future" to be published by The University of Illinois Press.

"Aspics can be clear or include bits of vegetables, meat, or fruit. Jell-O is a brand name for an instant gelatin, but powdered instant versions date back to the 19th century, marketed as fast and convenient," he adds.

The History of Aspic

In earlier times, even deer antlers were shaved down to produce hartshorn gelatin, and sturgeon swim bladders were used to create isinglass, both of which set almost instantly, Albala explains. Other forms similar to aspic include carrageenan derived from seaweed, as well as agar agar, a plant-based gelatin alternative commonly used in Asia for making gelatinous desserts.

"Aspic has certainly sparked fervent defenses throughout culinary history — gelatin in all its forms has undergone numerous variations, especially when considering old copper molds," Selinger says. "In the 1970s, there was a resurgence of setting foods in aspic, blending savory and sweet versions of the dish."

Albala shares similar insights about the cyclical popularity of this dish over time. For instance, colored and layered gelatin was a favorite in the Middle Ages, followed by a dip in popularity until the late 18th and early 19th centuries, and then another lull. Yet another surge came in the mid-20th century, particularly with the advent of instant gelatin.

"As is often the case, the trend started with the elite and was soon copied by others, until it ultimately fell out of favor in fine dining, which is where we stand now. However, I predict in my upcoming book that it will make a comeback," Albala shares.

Aspic varies greatly across the globe, both in flavor and popularity. It's still relatively common in Eastern Europe and Germany, especially in dishes like cold meat aspic and headcheese. However, Albala notes that it's no longer widely consumed in Western Europe or North America, "except in home kitchens or with adventurous cooks on the fringes who enjoy trying unusual things."

Selinger believes that aspic's allure is more tied to a "retro charm" and its visual appeal rather than its flavor, because aspic can be flavored to taste however you like.

What Does Aspic Taste Like?

When it’s made correctly, Albala says, aspic shouldn’t have any distinct flavor. "Whatever seasoning you add should take center stage, though there are meat-based gelatins made from bones and meat that taste like concentrated soup," he explains. So, there’s plenty of room for inventive experimentation in the whimsical world of aspic.

This means that if you make your aspic from meat, it will likely carry a subtle meaty taste. When you consume aspic, it literally melts or dissolves in your mouth, almost turning into a broth. Therefore, you'll likely taste whatever ingredients have been set into the aspic. For example, if you're having tomato aspic with vegetables, the flavor should reflect the tomatoes and whatever else is in the mold.

Ways to Use Aspic

As noted earlier, aspic experienced a revival in the 1950s and 60s in the U.S. It has many uses, though its most common application is setting foods into molds.

These molded dishes can include anything from meats and vegetables to fruits or even eggs. The ingredients are combined into the mold, then the aspic is poured in. After that, the mold is chilled. To serve, it’s typically sliced or scooped out using a serving spoon.

Aspic is also used to coat and glaze foods like cold meats, fish, eggs, poached or roasted poultry, and vegetables. Plain aspic, when chopped or cut into shapes, can be used as a garnish for cold dishes. Additionally, various foods can be set in aspic within decorative molds. Combining mayonnaise or sauce velouté with liquid aspic creates chaud-froid, a sauce that can be colored and used to decorate cold foods.

The two most popular uses for aspic today are likely for terrines and pâtés — both of which are classic French dishes. "I’m old-fashioned. To me, the best form of aspic is the gel on top of pâté," says Selinger.

Perhaps the most amusing thing about aspic in modern times is the online communities dedicated to its wobbly texture. While working on his aspic book, Albala admits, "It was a strange obsession; for over a year, I made an aspic almost every day, became obsessed with it, and then stopped completely once I finished writing the book. It was a lot of fun though, a great technical and gastronomic challenge, mostly for the enjoyment of a Facebook group called Show Me Your Aspics that seemingly loved what I was doing."

So while aspic might not be the most universally craved culinary creation, it does spark a sort of cult-like devotion among its passionate followers.