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Ever wondered what goes on in the mind of a beauty editor? Or sought product recommendations from someone who's tested them all? You're in the right place. In this weekly series, beauty editor Hana Hong addresses the most pressing skincare, hair care, and makeup queries submitted by Mytour readers. Tune in every Tuesday and submit your own beauty dilemmas here for a chance to be featured.
Reader inquiry: "I always get a red mark after a breakout clears. Why does this happen and how can I get rid of it?" —Cady Griffin
If you've ever experienced redness following a breakout, you're not alone. But you might be left wondering how to get rid of it. Here, Beauty Editor Hana Hong, along with board-certified dermatologists, explains the cause of post-acne redness and how to minimize its appearance.
What Exactly is Post-Inflammatory Erythema (PIE)?
Facial redness can occur for many reasons, but if you're seeing red after a breakout, you're dealing with post-inflammatory erythema, commonly known as PIE. It’s just as stubborn and frustrating to treat as the acne that caused it.
Unfortunately, PIE doesn’t play favorites when it comes to location—it can affect not just your face, but also areas like the neck, chest, and back where acne occurs. And here's the kicker: Not all acne is created the same. According to Loretta Ciraldo MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in Miami, Fla., and founder of Dr. Loretta skincare, acne comes in many forms. There’s comedonal acne, which includes whiteheads and blackheads, and then there’s inflammatory acne, which includes pimples, pustules, cysts, and all those red lesions.
It's the inflammatory acne that causes the redness you see post-breakout. "The redness in inflammatory acne is a result of blood moving to the affected skin area," explains Dr. Ciraldo. "White blood cells respond to trapped dead skin cells, bacteria, debris, and excess oils in the acne lesion, treating them as foreign invaders. The blood rushes in to begin the healing process." In essence, that redness is a sign of your skin's recovery.
Acne Treatments May Intensify Redness
However, acne treatments often exacerbate redness, and in some cases, irritation from products might be the real issue. "Overusing acne products is frequently a major cause of pimple redness," says Dr. Ciraldo. "Ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, retinoids, glycolic acid, and other AHAs can dry out the skin and trigger more redness. You should avoid applying products with these ingredients to skin that’s already red, dry, or peeling." If you're unsure whether your redness is caused by natural inflammation or product irritation, Dr. Ciraldo suggests reducing the frequency of use or opting for a gentler formula to see if the redness improves.
And no matter what, resist the urge to pick or pop your pimples, as this can significantly increase the risk of PIE and lead to even more inflammation. It can even worsen into post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), the dark or brown spots that develop after skin trauma. For those struggling with the temptation to pick (which people with excoriation disorder will know all too well), Dr. Ciraldo suggests using a pimple patch to protect the area.
Once you've ruled out picking and product irritation, there are some methods to reduce the appearance of redness.
How to Minimize Redness from Acne
1. Apply an ice compress.
"If you have significant redness, try applying an ice cube or compress to the affected area for about 10 minutes," says Dr. Ciraldo. The cold will help reduce both redness and swelling caused by the blemish. "After the ice facial, apply a thin layer of 1% hydrocortisone cream, which helps decrease blood flow to the inflamed skin," she recommends.
2. Use soothing, anti-inflammatory ingredients.
The right anti-inflammatory ingredients work by calming the body’s negative reaction and blocking certain enzymes that contribute to inflammation. So, which ingredients should you choose to tackle irritation?
Dr. Ciraldo suggests aloe vera, green tea, and other healing ingredients like witch hazel and tiger grass. CBD-infused skincare products could also be beneficial—studies show they interact with skin receptors to reduce the inflammatory response.
3. Add a niacinamide serum to your skincare routine.
Niacinamide, or Vitamin B3, is an anti-inflammatory powerhouse that helps reduce redness. "It can also be helpful if you’re dealing with PIH, as it's a brightening ingredient that fights hyperpigmentation by preventing the transfer of pigment from melanocytes (pigment-producing cells) to the skin cells on the surface where discoloration appears," explains Kenneth Howe, MD, board-certified dermatologist at UnionDerm in New York City. For the best results, seek out a high-potency niacinamide serum like Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment.
4. Invest in an LED facial mask.
LED face masks target multiple skin concerns, from firming and smoothing wrinkles to reducing inflammation, preventing breakouts, and balancing oil production. When it comes to acne-related redness, a combination of blue and red LED lights can be particularly effective.
"Red light has been shown to reduce cytokine production, which triggers inflammation, making it commonly paired with blue light to manage inflammatory conditions like acne and rosacea," says Rachel Westbay, MD, board-certified dermatologist at Marmur Medical.
5. Consult your doctor about prescription treatments.
If you're dealing with severe cystic acne causing widespread redness, consider discussing tretinoin (e.g., Retin-A Micro, Refissa, or Retin-A) with your doctor. This potent treatment reduces bacteria and calms inflammation by exfoliating and stimulating cell turnover. However, it’s stronger than typical acne medications and requires a prescription from a specialist.
6. Explore laser treatments.
While laser treatments can be costly, lasers such as PDL, IPL, and KTP can speed up the process of reducing redness by targeting blood vessels. Improvement may be noticeable after just one session, but achieving optimal results may require multiple treatments.
7. Use salicylic acid on your skin.
In addition to clearing breakouts, salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory benefits that help reduce acne redness. This acne-fighting ingredient is commonly found in moisturizers, face washes, and spot treatments (such as pimple patches that can shrink pimples overnight). Just be cautious and avoid overuse, as it can lead to dryness and irritation if used in multiple products.
If you have sensitive or dry skin, or if you're allergic to aspirin (since salicylic acid belongs to the same family of compounds), it’s best to steer clear of this product. Additionally, avoid applying salicylic acid to skin that is already irritated or sunburned.
8. Wash your face twice daily with a gentle cleanser.
Choose a gentle cleanser that is free of fragrance and noncomedogenic, meaning it won’t clog your pores. Cleansing your face with a mild product both morning and night will help prevent irritation and inflammation, which can be triggered by harsher, chemical-laden cleansers.
