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Reader Query: Are gel manicures harmful to my nails? Should I space them out? —Rita Watson
As someone who frequently opts for gel manicures, I can attest to their appeal. The allure of a durable, chip-resistant manicure is hard to resist, especially for someone with an active lifestyle. However, my routine was interrupted when I noticed my nails becoming thin and fragile. Initially, I blamed the polish, but the real issue was my improper removal technique.
Removing gel polish is a meticulous process, often requiring acetone soaking, and I had grown impatient, resorting to peeling it off—a major mistake. Once I began having my gel nails professionally removed at a salon, my nails regained their strength. Now, they’re not only robust but also healthier and longer than before I started using gel polish. To validate my experience, I consulted several nail experts, asking, "Are gel nails harmful?" Here’s what they shared to support my findings.
What Are Gel Nails?
Gel nails are created using gel nail polish, a specialized polish designed to last for weeks without chipping or peeling. Unlike traditional nail polish, gel polish consists of acrylic monomers and oligomers that solidify when exposed to UV or LED light. This results in a thicker, harder, and shinier finish compared to regular polish.
There are two types of gel polish: hard and soft. Both provide a durable, glossy finish, but hard gel can also be used to create nail extensions. Soft gel, on the other hand, is more flexible and serves as a long-lasting alternative to traditional polish for manicures and pedicures without extensions. Soft gel is generally easier to remove than hard gel, which often requires filing.
Are Gel Manicures Harmful?
The answer isn't straightforward. Modern gel polish formulas, in terms of their chemical makeup, are generally safe. "The idea that nails need to 'breathe' between manicures is a myth that has persisted since the introduction of nail enhancements," explains Heather Reynosa, OPI Global education design director. "Semi-permanent products like gel polish don't damage nails. In fact, they can shield natural nails from environmental factors."
Mechanical Damage
Why do gel manicures often harm nail health? Reynosa explains that the damage is primarily mechanical, occurring in several ways. "Using files not designed for natural nails before application, forcefully scraping off the product instead of letting it dissolve, aggressive filing after removal, and peeling off the gel polish can all lead to damage," they state.
Dermatologist Harikiran Chekuri, MBBS, MS, highlights that improper use of tools during application or removal can also cause harm. "If tools aren’t sterilized correctly, there’s a risk of fungal or bacterial infections," Chekuri notes.
UV Lights
It’s also important to consider the UV or LED lights used to cure gel polish, as they emit UV radiation, which is associated with premature skin aging and skin cancer. "Although the risk is lower than sun exposure, frequent and prolonged use could increase the likelihood of skin cancer," Chekuri explains. He adds that repeated exposure to UV rays, even from nail lamps, can "speed up skin aging, causing wrinkles and age spots." Additionally, some individuals may develop allergic reactions to the chemicals involved in the UV curing process.
To protect your skin, the Skin Cancer Foundation advises applying a broad-spectrum (UVA/UVB) sunscreen to your hands about 20 minutes before exposing them to UV light. While applying sunscreen during a manicure can be tricky, you can prepare by applying it before your appointment.
Avoid keeping a gel manicure for more than two to three weeks, even if it appears flawless. "Leaving gel polish on beyond three weeks can cause the extra weight to pull on the nail edges, leading to tears at the base," explains Reynosa. "This can cause lifting, which strips away keratin layers and results in further mechanical damage." If frequent salon visits are costly, consider using at-home gel nail kits as a budget-friendly alternative.
How to Remove Gel Polish Safely
Proper removal of gel polish is crucial to avoid damage, so ensure you choose a reputable salon.
- File down the polish. "For acrylic or sculpting gel removal, pre-filing is necessary to reduce the bulk of the product to a thickness similar to gel polish," advises Reynosa.
- Wrap the nails with 100 percent acetone. Shelena Robinson, OPI global education manager, explains: "Effective removal occurs when acetone-soaked wraps (foil or cotton) are left on for 10 to 15 minutes, allowing the remover to fully penetrate the coating so it can be gently scraped off with a plastic cuticle pusher."
- Remove the wraps. After unwrapping each finger, use a cuticle pusher or orange stick to gently remove the gel polish. If residue remains, rewrap the nail and let it soak longer.
- Nourish the nails. Once the gel polish is completely removed, wash your hands and apply cuticle oil and moisturizer to restore moisture and nourishment to your nails and skin after acetone exposure.
"If you notice your nail technician forcefully prying off your manicure with a tool, such as sliding a tip under the gel or acrylic to peel it off, ask them to stop immediately," advises Reynosa. "If they refuse, it’s best to leave."
When to Take a Break from Gel Manicures
Jin Soon Choi, celebrity manicurist and founder of JINsoon Spas and JINsoon Nail Lacquer, suggests that signs your nails need a break include chipping, peeling nail beds, rough cuticles, thinning nails, dryness, and white spots. If you notice any of these symptoms, it’s a good idea to pause gel manicures for a while.
The duration of the break depends on the severity of the damage and your nail growth rate. Since nail beds can’t be thickened, focus on keeping them hydrated and allowing the damaged parts to grow out. Choi recommends a minimum break of two weeks to a month to see noticeable improvement. "For severe damage caused by repeated picking or peeling, it may take four to eight weeks for the nails to fully recover," adds Reynosa.
To speed up recovery, regularly apply a high-quality cuticle oil. "If your nails are excessively dry and visibly splitting or peeling, trim them short and use cuticle oil on bare nails for about a week—they should recover quickly and be ready for polish afterward," says Reynosa. Additionally, using a nourishing hand cream can further support nail and skin health.
