Can aftershave hydrate my skin?

After a refreshing shower and a clean shave, you’re ready to apply your go-to fragrance, complete with its familiar tingling sensation. Aftershaves are known for their sharp, invigorating feel. They’re crafted not just to leave you smelling great but also to strip away oils from your skin, tighten pores post-shower, and sanitize any minor cuts or abrasions.

However, stripping away most (or all) of your skin’s natural oils comes with a downside. Healthy skin maintains a slightly acidic pH level, around 5.5 on the pH-scale (compared to water’s neutral 7) [source: Kim et al]. Skincare products that disrupt this pH balance and deplete natural oils tend to dry out the skin rather than moisturize it.

The skin consists of multiple layers: the epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis (or subcutaneous tissue). The epidermis, the outermost layer, is composed of three key components: the stratum corneum, keratinocytes, and the basal layer. The stratum corneum, the topmost layer of your skin, holds about 30% water along with amino acids, lactic acids, urea, and salts. This layer, formed by a mix of dead skin cells and natural oils, acts as a protective shield for your skin [source: Marino]. It’s this part of the skin that requires occasional moisturizing, particularly during dry winter months or when using skincare products that strip away natural oils.

When searching for an aftershave that hydrates rather than dries, focus on the ingredients listed on the product labels. Moisturizers generally fall into two categories: humectants and lipids. Humectants, like glycerin and alpha-hydroxy acids, attract and retain moisture by penetrating the stratum corneum. Lipids, in contrast, act as barriers to lock in moisture, often feeling oily, such as petroleum jelly or lanolin. Naturally present in the stratum corneum, lipids are most effective when applied after bathing or showering.

Aftershaves with alcohol-based ingredients, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or witch hazel, are effective at preventing bacteria from entering shaving cuts. However, they are also known to dry out the skin. Opt for aftershave balms or lotions containing moisturizing ingredients like vitamin E, allantoin, or oils such as avocado and coconut, which nourish and protect the skin.

If you can’t give up the refreshing sting of your aftershave, try splashing cold water on your face instead. This natural method helps tighten pores after a shower without drying out your skin.