Buzz
TikTok is full of skincare fads – from slugging to the glazed donut look, and now there's skin flooding, a new technique that's gaining popularity among beauty enthusiasts.
While many beauty trends on social media are debated, dermatologists are actually supportive of skin flooding. It involves layering hydrating serums and moisturizing creams, a method that's been trusted by skincare professionals for a long time, according to Dr. Marisa Garshick, a board-certified dermatologist.
However, skin flooding isn't a one-size-fits-all solution. We reached out to leading dermatologists to understand who can benefit from it, who should avoid it, and the best way to incorporate it into your skincare routine.
What exactly is skin flooding and how does it work? Let's dive into this popular trend that’s making waves in the skincare community.
Skin flooding is a skincare technique that involves applying multiple hydrating products in a specific sequence and quickly. The goal is to saturate the skin with moisture for optimal hydration, as explained by board-certified dermatologist Dr. Michelle Green.
Although the exact combination of products can differ based on individual needs, Dr. Garshick notes that skin flooding generally follows four steps, executed in a specific order.
The process starts with cleansing the skin using a gentle cleanser while keeping it damp. Next, a hydrating serum with hyaluronic acid or glycerin is applied to help draw moisture in. The third step involves using a serum that contains hydrating ingredients like niacinamide or polyglutamic acid. Finally, the skin is sealed with a moisturizing lotion, cream, or ointment. For morning routines, Dr. Garshick suggests finishing with sunscreen.
Dr. Anna Chacon, a board-certified dermatologist, advises that for most individuals, skin flooding once per day is sufficient. However, those with very dry skin might find it beneficial to perform the treatment twice daily, once in the morning and again before bedtime. While skin flooding can be effective at any time of day, nighttime applications are particularly advantageous since the skin’s hydration naturally declines overnight, allowing the products to assist with repair and replenishment during rest.
Who benefits most from skin flooding?
According to board-certified dermatologist Dr. Christina Lee Chung, skin flooding can revitalize dull, aging, dry, or dehydrated skin, giving it a refreshed and glowing appearance by helping to "pump and glow."
Green is confident that skin flooding is highly effective for most individuals dealing with these concerns. Garshick also agreed, stating that hydrating the skin can help plump it, resulting in a healthy, radiant glow.
Skin flooding is particularly beneficial for mature skin, Green explained. As we age, our skin’s natural moisture retention declines, making such intensive moisturizing techniques more appealing. It can also temporarily reduce the appearance of fine lines by plumping the skin.
Green suggests approaching skin flooding with a personalized mindset, as "what works wonders for one person might not for another."
The effectiveness of this method varies for each person, Chacon noted, depending on factors like skin type, climate, and the specific products being used.
Avoid excessively applying product to your skin as a literal flood.
Although some people use a generous amount of product for skin flooding, Chacon explained that "using more of a product often does not provide additional benefits." This is because "many skincare products are designed to deliver their maximum benefits at the recommended usage levels."
Who should refrain from skin flooding?
Despite its advantages, skin flooding may not be suitable for everyone. Chacon warned that overhydration could lead to skin problems such as breakouts, especially for those with oily or acne-prone skin. If you’re unsure whether skin flooding will be beneficial or harmful for your skin type, Chung advises consulting with a dermatologist or skincare expert before trying it. As with any new skincare method, Green suggests starting gradually to assess how your skin reacts.
How to make the most of skin flooding.
Chung advises starting with damp skin, as this is when "skin is most biologically able to absorb and retain moisture."
Chung also suggests tailoring your skin flooding approach based on your skin type and personal goals. "People with dry or aging skin who want to plump and glow should focus on using both serum and moisturizer layers," she noted. However, "those with acne-prone skin or larger pores should scale it back to avoid excessive shine and breakouts."
She also stressed the importance of sunscreen in maximizing the effectiveness of skin flooding. "Protect your skin from UV rays, because skin flooding won’t be effective on sun-damaged skin cells," she said.
Alternatives to skin flooding.
If skin flooding feels like too much effort, or if you’re short on time for layering products, Chung suggests applying lotion, moisturizer, or serum to damp skin for similar results. She emphasized that "letting the water evaporate" without locking it in is "the best way to lose moisture."
Chung suggests one highly effective method of sealing in moisture is by applying a thick layer of petroleum jelly right after you shower, while the bathroom is still filled with steam.
Chung also recommends skipping face washes "every now and again," as washing too frequently can strip natural oils, leaving your skin "sallow and dry... the opposite of dewy." Green further advises using hydrating masks or overnight sleeping masks once or twice a week to boost your skin’s moisture.
Before starting skin flooding, think about whether it's necessary for achieving your desired skin type. Green warns that "not everyone necessarily needs to do skin flooding to gain moisture." For some people, moisturizing once or twice a day may be enough to maintain hydration.
Check out some popular skin-flooding products below:
1. Paula's Choice hyaluronic acid serum with ceramides.
2. Sunday Riley Ice ceramide moisturizing cream.
3. Vichy Mineral 89 hyaluronic acid face serum.
4. Skinfix Barrier+ triple lipid peptide face cream.
5. SkinCeuticals hyaluronic acid intensifier.
6. Embryolisse Lait Creme Concentre cream.
If you're looking for a moisturizer that is deeply hydrating but won't feel thick or heavy, check out this option from Embryolisse. It has a light, milky texture that is quickly and easily absorbed but doesn't compromise on nourishing ingredients. Shea butter, fatty acids and soy proteins leave skin with a soft, velvety finish while increasing elasticity.
Promising review: "I love this moisturizer. It’s great for travel when I need to take off the day and for moisturizing my dry skin in dry climate. Also great on the hands. It’s heavy though so I wouldn’t recommend for anyone with normal-oily skin." —Melissa
Get it from Amazon or Dermstore for $16+ (available in two sizes).
7. Glossier Super Bounce serum
The price is always right when it comes to Glossier serums, and their Super Bounce serum is an ideal addition to a moisture-rich regimen. It combines hyaluronic acid and vitamin B5 to deeply moisturize the skin and keep it that way. It has a silky texture that doesn't dry down sticky, and leaves skin looking and feeling healthy, glowy and youthful.
Promising reviews: "Honestly, I was a little bit skeptical going into trying a new product with how sensitive my skin is, but this was an amazing result almost immediately! And it worked perfectly with my skin!" —Dalynne M.
Get it from Glossier for $29.
8. La Roche-Posay HyaluB5 serum
9. Biossance Squalane + Omega repair cream
10. Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Skin Barrier moisturizing cream
11. Dr. Barbara Sturm hyaluronic serum
