Do More Blades Mean a Superior Razor?

No need for shaving cream anymore. With the Gillette Fusion, you can shave with five blades. And for extra precision, the razor even includes an additional blade on the back for trimming sideburns and mustaches. This five-blade design isn’t just for men; women can also use a five-blade razor, like the Gillette Venus Embrace, wherever they want smooth skin.

But why so many blades? In commercials for the Fusion, Derek Jeter and Tiger Woods don’t say much—they just show how easily they replace three-blade razors. Meanwhile, Venus Embrace ads assure women that the razor helps them embrace their inner goddesses. One ad even features the ‘Goddess of the Hunt,’ who seemingly can’t find great shoe deals without using a five-blade razor.

Many of us are practical individuals. We prefer to shave less frequently without irritating or cutting our skin. But when we rely on evidence instead of marketing, it becomes difficult to make a clear decision. Very few studies have examined the connection between razor types, blade count, and shave quality. This lack of research allows companies to easily claim that more blades provide the best shave.

Shaving is a complex task—more blades won’t necessarily solve every problem. It’s not like cutting a flat lawn. Our bodies have curves. Men’s chins and upper lips have distinct angles, while women’s legs are long and curvy with concave armpits. Razors are even designed differently to accommodate the various curves of men’s and women’s bodies [source: Draelos 2002].

Along the way to a smooth shave, there are smaller challenges to overcome. The skin around each hair forms a tiny bump that the razor has to navigate. And contrary to what you might think, hair doesn’t just stand up straight. It grows in different directions, especially around men’s chins and necks. For the least irritation, it’s best to shave in the direction that the hair grows. On top of that, some hair, like women’s leg hair, is fine, while other hair, like a mustache, is coarse. The razor needs to apply different amounts of pressure to effectively cut both. Shaving, then, is less like mowing a lawn and more like clearing a path through the jungle.

From what we’ve learned, more blades appear to result in a closer shave. We'll explain why we think so next. We’ll also explain why the number of blades may matter less than your overall shaving technique for avoiding nicks and irritation.

Achieving the Perfect Shave: Say Goodbye to Nicks

After a shave, most people desire smooth, flawless skin—without the annoyance of nicks, razor burn, or ingrown hairs.

To achieve a close shave that lasts, it’s necessary to cut the hair just beneath the skin's surface. This doesn’t mean aggressively digging into the skin. Instead, many multiblade razors use this approach to shave closer than a single blade. Here's how it works: The first blade is blunt and lifts the hair above the surface. As you shave, the blade pulls the hair forward. The second sharp blade follows and cuts the hair, which then retracts into the follicle, beneath the surface.

A researcher used a video microscope to examine the jawlines of men, comparing how an electric razor and a two-blade safety razor shaved their beards. The electric razor clipped the hair above the skin, while the safety razor cut the hair beneath the surface [source: Draelos 2002].

Building on this idea, Gillette asserts that five blades provide a closer shave than just two. This is because the catching-and-cutting process happens twice: The first blade catches the hair, the second cuts, the third catches, and the fourth cuts. (We're not entirely sure what the fifth blade does.) After this multi-stage process, the hair is pulled back even further [source: Burns].

Some traditional barbers argue that straight razors deliver the closest shave. According to them, you can adjust the angle of the razor to catch every hair, even in irregular patches—something a safety razor can't quite do [source: Kugel]. Of course, without the right technique, you might end up giving yourself a serious cut, à la Sweeney Todd.

If multiple blades make you nervous about nicks, you’re not alone. Some dermatologists suggest limiting yourself to two blades to avoid the risk of cuts. When razor heads are larger and have to navigate sharp curves, it becomes trickier to maintain control. If the blade can’t align with the skin properly, you’re likely to get nicked [source: Burns].

Nicks also occur when the razor presses down on the fat beneath your skin, forcing the skin to form a bump in front of the blade. If the blade hits the bump first, you’ll get a nick. Safer razors often have a flat surface ahead of the blade to flatten out the bump. Gillette claims they handle this problem by spreading the downward force across five closely spaced blades [source: Burns]. However, the simplest way to avoid nicks is to shave gently, rather than pressing down hard.

Nicks are probably not the only shaving problem you’ll encounter. Stay tuned to learn how to tackle those pesky ingrown hairs next.

Goodbye to Ingrown Hairs and Razor Burn

Ingrown hairs are another common issue to avoid. They can develop in various ways, all starting with a close shave. When the hair is cut closely, it retracts below the skin’s surface, into the follicle. If the hair is cut at an angle, creating a sharp tip, it can pierce the follicular wall and grow into the surrounding skin. Alternatively, the hair might exit the surface, bend, and re-enter the skin from the top.

Men’s chin and neck hairs, which naturally grow at an angle, are particularly prone to becoming ingrown [source: Draelos 2002]. Curly beard hair, especially in African-American men, is also especially susceptible. This often leads to bumps and irritation, and if it happens repeatedly, scarring may occur [source: Bridgeman-Shah, Greidanus]. Some men can avoid this problem by shaving daily. Their hair doesn’t grow long enough to bend and re-enter the skin. For those with curly beards, however, daily shaving might not help. Some dermatologists suggest growing the beard out. If shaving is necessary, they often recommend avoiding close shaves with multiblade razors. Instead, they suggest leaving hair 2 to 3 millimeters (0.08 to 0.12 inches) long and trimming with an electric razor or using the Bump Fighter Razor, which has a foil guard to prevent close shaves [source: Bridgeman-Shah].

Another issue to avoid is razor burn, which occurs when the razor removes too much skin along with the hair. Avoiding razor burn isn’t about how many blades you use, but about your technique. Dermatologist Zoe Diana Draelos, writing in Dermatology Times, explains that dull razors are a common cause. Replace your razor blades after 5 to 7 uses. Additionally, soften the hair to make shaving easier. Wet the hair with warm water and apply shaving gel, as it allows more water to penetrate the hair shaft. Draelos recommends leaving the shaving gel on for 3 to 4 minutes before shaving [source: Draelos 2001].

Keep reading for more helpful tips on taking care of your beautiful face.