
Tired of costly monthly waxing sessions or fed up with the constant need to shave your legs? It might be time to look into more permanent solutions for hair removal. Electrolysis and laser hair removal offer longer-lasting results compared to regular shaving or waxing. Though pricier than your average razor, these treatments can greatly simplify your hair maintenance routine.
Deciding between electrolysis and laser hair removal involves weighing various factors. To help you choose the right option, we consulted two dermatologists who shared their expertise on what each treatment entails, the key differences between them, how to determine which one is best suited for your needs, and the potential risks associated with each option.
What Is Electrolysis?
Electrolysis is a hair removal technique where a fine wire is inserted into the hair follicle beneath the skin, and an electric current is used to destroy the follicle, preventing hair from growing. “You'll need several sessions (typically six to eight over the course of a year) for optimal results,” explains Geeta Yadav, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of FACET Dermatology. “This method is specifically used for permanently stopping the growth of individual hairs, such as a stray chin hair that may be bothersome.”
What Is Laser Hair Removal?
Laser hair removal, according to Georgina Ferzli, MD, a board-certified dermatologist, uses a light-based energy source (laser) to target the pigment cells in hair follicles. “This weakens the hair follicle cells, which results in reduced hair growth and slower regrowth,” she explains.
The laser in laser hair removal focuses on the melanin within the hair follicle. Over multiple sessions (usually five to ten, spaced about four to eight weeks apart), the follicle is progressively damaged, reducing hair growth. “This method is ideal for treating larger areas of unwanted hair, like the armpits or bikini line,” says Dr. Yadav. “Many people find that laser hair removal helps reduce razor bumps, ingrown hairs, and the appearance of ‘strawberry legs’ (dark follicles surrounded by redness) as the follicle shrinks.”
What Sets Electrolysis and Laser Hair Removal Apart?
Dr. Yadav explains that electrolysis and laser hair removal operate on completely different methods, leading to different results. Electrolysis permanently destroys the hair follicle, ensuring the hair never grows back. Laser hair removal can also damage the follicle permanently, but it targets it differently and can cover a larger area in one session. “With laser treatments, you'll notice the hair in the area thins out first before eventually disappearing,” says Dr. Yadav. “You may need occasional touch-ups to keep the hair sparse.”
Another key distinction is the approach to shaving. Before undergoing laser hair removal, shaving is crucial for the best results, as it helps focus the laser energy directly on the hair follicle, not the visible hair. However, for electrolysis, shaving is not recommended since it can make it difficult for the technician to locate the hair to treat it properly, according to Dr. Yadav.
When it comes to hair color, laser hair removal works most effectively on darker hair. Those with lighter or gray hair may not see much, if any, result because the laser targets the pigment in the hair. “For individuals with darker skin tones, it's important to seek treatment from an experienced provider with the proper technology for safe and effective results,” advises Dr. Yadav. “Electrolysis, on the other hand, works on all hair colors and skin tones.”
Electrolysis is generally considered more painful than laser hair removal. The energy is highly concentrated and may create a stinging feeling, even with numbing cream. Most people find laser hair removal to be more uncomfortable than painful, with sensations often described as similar to being snapped by a rubber band.
“Both treatments can effectively prevent new hair growth from existing follicles, but new follicles may still develop, leading to new growth,” cautions Dr. Yadav.
How to Determine the Best Option for You
Dr. Ferzli suggests consulting with your dermatologist to find the best treatment for you. However, if you prefer to skip the derm visit, she recommends electrolysis for those with blonde, white, or gray hair. “There’s still no laser treatment that effectively works on hairs without pigment,” she explains. “I’ve been involved in trials where we attempted to enhance the laser’s effect by tagging hair follicles with substances like silver or gold, but the results were disappointing.”
When choosing the right hair removal method, consider your skin tone, hair color, and the amount of hair you wish to treat. “If you have a dark skin tone, light blonde or white hairs, and just a few hairs to remove, electrolysis is your best option,” advises Dr. Yadav. “For larger treatment areas with dark hair, laser hair removal is ideal.”
Risks of Hair Removal
Each treatment option comes with its own set of risks. “Your provider will inquire if you’re prone to developing keloid scars to assess your risk,” says Dr. Yadav. “There's also a chance of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation if the procedure isn’t performed with the correct equipment or settings.”
Laser hair removal carries the potential risks of hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, and burns, regardless of your skin tone. It’s critical to seek treatment from highly skilled and experienced providers to minimize the chances of side effects. Dr. Yadav notes that most adverse effects happen when the procedure is performed by unqualified practitioners. Consulting a dermatologist is the safest route for these treatments.
Dr. Ferzli concurs and recommends consulting with your dermatologist or doctor, who will know which lasers are best for your specific needs. “It’s wise to have a professional select the most effective treatment for you—the one that provides the best results in the fewest sessions, saving you pain, time, and money,” she advises.