Buzz
Imagine receiving an invitation to dine with the Queen at Buckingham Palace, and the dress code clearly states 'white tie.' You're left wondering what this entails. While dining with the Queen might be a rare occasion, white tie events are more common than you think, and dressing appropriately is crucial. This guide focuses on men's attire, as women are typically expected to wear their most elegant gowns (no skirts or trousers). We'll take you through the dress code from head to toe.
10. Hat
For a white tie event, the appropriate headwear is a top hat. While wearing a hat is optional, pairing it with an opera cloak or coat is recommended if you choose to do so. Additional accessories like white gloves, a scarf, or a cane are also optional. Historically, John Hetherington, the creator of the top hat, caused such a stir when he debuted his invention that he was taken to court for wearing 'a tall structure with a shining luster designed to frighten timid people.' A genuine top hat should feature a wider top and base with a narrower middle and a curved, upturned rim.
9. Jacket
A tailcoat is the ideal choice for your jacket. It should feature a front cut that ends at your waist, ensuring no part of the white vest beneath is visible. Tailcoats typically have a split in the back and may include buttons on both sides. The tails should not extend beyond your knees. The lapels, preferably peaked, should be adorned with silk or, even better, grosgrain. In the provided image, President Bush's off-the-rack suit appears ill-fitted, with the jacket front being too short. In contrast, the Duke of Edinburgh (left) showcases a perfectly tailored suit with the appropriate length. The right-hand image further illustrates a well-fitted jacket and vest.
8. Tie
Your bowtie should always be hand-tied—avoid pre-tied options or those with clasps. Tying a bowtie is as straightforward as tying a standard necktie; invest some time in mastering the technique. A hand-tied bowtie offers a unique and polished look that is easily recognizable. Opt for a bowtie crafted from cotton pique. Ensure your neck is measured accurately when purchasing, as bowties come in various sizes to fit perfectly.
7. Shirt
Choose a shirt made of white cotton, featuring a stiff front crafted from white cotton pique. The shirt should have a concealed front placket (no visible buttons) and single cuffs that require cufflinks (known as a link cuff shirt, distinct from French cuffs or double cuffs used with dinner jackets). It must include a stiff wingtip collar, typically made of cotton pique, though a detachable collar option is acceptable for added formality. Secure the shirt front with white, silver, or diamond studs, and pair it with matching cufflinks. Ensure the collar tips rest neatly behind the bowtie.
6. Waistcoat (vest)
Your vest should extend sufficiently to conceal your waist entirely, ensuring no part of your trousers or suspender buttons is visible. This is typically achievable with the right pair of trousers (unlike President Bush in the image linked to item 9). Crafted from white cotton pique, the vest must feature three mother-of-pearl buttons, all of which should be fastened—unlike the usual practice with casual vests. There are two vest styles available: one with curved lapels and the other with sharp lapels. Both are acceptable, though curved lapels are often preferred by older gentlemen and can create a fuller appearance. The image above displays a properly styled vest, though the accompanying jacket is unfortunately too short and unsuitable for pairing with this vest.
5. Suspenders
Suspenders are a must for white tie attire. Opt for button-fastened suspenders, avoiding clip-on styles. Never wear a belt alongside suspenders. Keep in mind that suspenders are considered undergarments and should remain hidden. This allows you to choose any color you prefer. Suspenders should be worn over your shirt but beneath your vest.
4. Trousers
For white tie events, fishtail trousers are the appropriate choice. These trousers are designed to sit at the waist, not the hips, with the back higher than the front. They feature internal buttons on both the front and back to securely attach your suspenders. As shown in the photo, black trousers tailored to match your jacket are essential. The trousers should display a double stripe running down the outer sides of each leg (a single stripe is reserved for black tie attire). These stripes must match the material of your jacket lapels' facing, whether grosgrain or silk. The trousers should extend to the heel of your shoes at the back—neither shorter nor longer.
1. Socks
For many men, this will be the most unconventional item: knee-high black silk socks are a must. These can easily be found online or in high-end department stores. Pantherella, as shown above, is likely the top brand for this purpose.
3. Handkerchief
The ideal handkerchief for white tie attire is made of fine linen, not silk. If fine white linen is unavailable, silk is a suitable substitute. The handkerchief must be white and should be neatly folded or puffed, then placed in the front pocket of your jacket for visibility. If you opt to wear a lapel flower instead, it’s best to forgo the handkerchief, though this combination, while acceptable, is uncommon. Always carry an extra handkerchief in each trouser pocket—one for personal use and another to offer to a lady in need. The handkerchief in your jacket pocket is purely decorative and should never be used. Additionally, it’s considered highly impolite for anyone to touch another person’s front handkerchief or tie.
2. Shoes
For white tie events, patent leather shoes are inappropriate. Instead, opt for opera pumps, which feature a grosgrain bow on the front, as shown above. If opera pumps are unavailable or not in your wardrobe, high-quality calfskin shoes, often marketed as dancing shoes, are an acceptable alternative. If you’re hosting the event, formal slippers made of velvet with an embroidered emblem are an optional choice, though they should only be worn indoors. Opera pumps may feel unusual at first, resembling women’s flats without the heel, but they are crafted from premium leather and should never be made of patent leather.
+ For The Ladies
A special thanks to Persephone, who generously provided an eight-point guide for women attending white tie events. Here are her tips in full:
As a woman, I don’t wear white tie attire myself, but my husband does, and we’ve attended numerous formal (white tie) events in Europe and the United States. Several individuals have inquired about proper ladies’ attire for such occasions, and with Mr. Frater’s permission, I’ll share some insights.
1. Dress
As mentioned by Mr. Frater, the dress can be any color. However, if the event includes an opening cotillion, such as those often seen at Austrian balls, guests should avoid wearing pure white, as it is traditionally reserved for debutantes. For white tie occasions, particularly those involving dancing like the Vienna Opera Ball, women should wear a ball gown. Ball gowns can be sleeveless, have short sleeves, or feature long sleeves, which are more suitable for older women. The bodice should be fitted, while the skirt is full and flowing. Appropriate fabrics include silk (satin, crepe, brocade, taffeta, dupioni, etc.), cotton (satin or sateen, or even cotton muslin in summer), or various blends. A two-piece ensemble is acceptable, provided the top and skirt coordinate perfectly. Here is an example of a ball gown.
2. Outerwear
The ideal outerwear for a ball gown is a cloak. I personally own a black cotton velvet cloak for the traditional ball season. In warmer months, a silk shawl or a short, matching bolero evening jacket (as shown with the dress above) is sufficient. Here’s a vintage evening cloak.
3. Shoes and Stockings
Avoid sandals at all costs! Opt for closed-toe shoes crafted from leather, satin, or silk, in a color that harmonizes with your dress. I typically wear black pumps and later switch to ballroom dancing shoes. Stockings are non-negotiable for formal events—no exceptions.
4. Handbag
A compact evening handbag made of satin or silk is the most elegant choice. It should either match or complement your gown.
5. Jewellery
If you own a tiara, this is the occasion to wear it, along with your finest jewelry. Watches, even those adorned with diamonds, are not appropriate.
6. Gloves
For sleeveless or short-sleeved gowns, opera gloves are the ideal choice. If your dress has long sleeves, shorter gloves are acceptable. Glove lengths are measured in buttons, following an old French standard, ranging from 12 buttons (just above the elbow) to 18 buttons (mid-upper arm). Avoid 20-button gloves, as they can appear overly theatrical or inappropriate for formal settings. Traditionally, gloves are white, made from kid leather, and feature a mousquetaire opening at the wrist, allowing a lady to eat and drink without removing them entirely. Gloves should be worn while dancing but removed when eating. Jewelry, such as rings and bracelets, should be worn underneath the gloves, not over them. Kid gloves, though costly (starting at $200 per pair), are a worthwhile investment if cared for properly. They can be silk-lined or unlined, with some being washable. Here’s a great online place. For a more affordable option, white or ivory silk gloves are a suitable alternative. Avoid colored or synthetic materials like polyester or nylon, as they lack elegance.
7. Make up
Keep your makeup tasteful and suitable for both you and the occasion. Avoid excessive elements like false eyelashes, dramatic eye shadow, neon lipstick, or overly long, brightly colored nails, as they detract from the event's formality.
8. Hairstyles
For events involving dancing, an updo is the most common hairstyle choice. While wearing your hair down is an option, many women opt for full or partial updos, as they provide a better fit and appearance for tiaras.
Afterword
It’s worth noting that white tie attire is strictly for evening events and should never be worn during the day. The same rule applies to black tie—neither should be worn before 6 PM.
