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Image: LumiNola/Getty ImagesHair removal creams, also referred to as depilatories, are applied directly to your skin, where they work by dissolving the hair. Simply apply the cream, wait for a few minutes, and wipe it away for smooth, hair-free skin.
Unlike waxing or sugaring, hair removal creams are completely painless (though they can have a strong scent) and can be used repeatedly to maintain silky, smooth skin. Plus, they’re far more affordable than laser hair removal treatments. Keep reading for all the information you need about hair removal creams.
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How Do Hair Removal Creams Work?
Hair removal creams, lotions, and gels contain chemicals like thioglycolic acid, calcium thioglycolate, or potassium thioglycolate that break down keratin, the protein in hair.
“The hair turns into a jelly-like substance and is wiped away when the product is removed,” explains Merry Thornton, PA-C, founder of Element Medical Aesthetics in New Canaan, Conn. As the protein disintegrates, hydrogen sulfide is released, which creates the characteristic stinky-sweet scent of hair removal creams.
Only the hair visible on the skin’s surface and up to the upper hair shaft is removed, notes skincare expert Rebecca Gadberry, co-host of Facially Conscious. She adds, “The hair bulb, or root, stays intact. This is why these products offer only temporary results and may leave a ‘shadow’ under the skin if the root is dark.”
How to Use Hair Removal Cream
Hair removal cream is typically safe, but it's essential to follow the instructions carefully. We also recommend performing a patch test and waiting 24 hours—particularly if you have sensitive skin—to ensure you don’t experience any adverse reactions. Now, here’s how to use hair removal cream.
Step 1: Cleanse
Wash your hands and the area where you’ll apply the product. Make sure the area is completely dry.
Step 2: Apply the Cream
“Apply a generous and even layer to the area using a downward ‘tapping’ motion, rather than rubbing the cream into the skin,” advises Gadberry. “Ensure the hair is fully covered.”
Step 3: Wait
Follow the instructions on the label for the recommended waiting time, which can vary from three to ten minutes. Try to stay as still as possible. “Movement can cause the product to shift, drip, or fall off, especially on areas like your legs, underarms, and pubic region,” Gadberry explains. She adds that mild tingling or itching is common, but if you feel any pain or burning, wash it off immediately with water.
Step 4: Remove the Lotion
Gently yet firmly rub the cream off your skin. “The friction will also help remove the hair, so don’t simply rinse off the product,” notes Gadberry. “Afterward, cleanse with a mild facial cleanser or body wash and rinse with cool or warm water.” Avoid hot water, as it can lead to irritation.
It’s crucial to remove the hair removal cream as soon as the recommended time has passed. Since keratin also fills the upper layers of skin cells that form the skin's barrier, leaving the cream on too long can cause the keratin in this area to break down, leading to extreme sensitivity, itching, irritation, burns, blisters, and peeling.
Step 5: Dry & Hydrate
Follow up with a calming barrier repair cream or lotion to hydrate, smooth, and strengthen your skin's barrier. Avoid using any active ingredients, such as retinoids or acids.
How Long Do Hair Removal Cream Results Last?
The duration of hair removal cream results depends on how quickly your hair grows. Thornton states that the average regrowth time is between two to five days, though this can vary for each person. This is a shorter period than waxing, threading, or plucking, which remove the root, but longer than shaving.
Things to Keep in Mind When Using Hair Removal Cream
For those with sensitive skin or fragrance allergies, it might be best to avoid these creams, Thornton advises. Additionally, make sure to apply the creams only to the body parts they are designed for.
“Some people may find the scent bothersome, though many of the newer formulas smell better than older ones,” Thornton explains. “Your skin will also be more sensitive to the sun afterward, so be mindful of this before heading outside. If the creams are used incorrectly, they could cause a chemical burn,” she warns.
Finally, there’s a chance of uneven results, which can be a concern for larger areas like the legs. If this occurs, it’s best to wait a few days and reapply, as you don’t want to overuse the product on the same spot.
