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Image Source: primipil/Getty ImagesThe appeal of semi-permanent makeup is undeniable. Picture never needing to touch up your winged eyeliner again—but it's not without challenges, including a significant commitment, a few hours of discomfort, and potential risks. From pricing and techniques to the most common procedures, continue reading for everything you should know about semi-permanent makeup.
What Is Semi-Permanent Makeup and How Is It Applied?
Emilia Berry, the founder and CEO of PermaLine Cosmetics, defines permanent makeup as a form of cosmetic tattooing, also known as micro-pigmentation or dermapigmentation. This process involves applying pigment to the skin's dermal layer, enhancing facial features like eyebrows, eyes, and lips. In addition to cosmetic purposes, it is also used in paramedical practices to conceal scars, simulate hair, and recreate areolas.
Permanent makeup differs from traditional tattoos in its technique. A small handheld device with either a single or multiple needles is used to deposit specially formulated pigment into the skin at a shallow depth. This pigment is designed with a lower concentration of colorants and a higher liquid-to-pigment ratio compared to regular tattoo ink, offering a more natural finish. The pigments are also designed to fade gradually over time, unlike conventional tattoo ink, as explained by Cindy Vu, the founder of Beauty Elements and Lux Series Salon in Orange County, California.
Duration of Effectiveness
Although permanent makeup is designed to last for years, it is essentially semi-permanent due to its gradual fading over time. According to Cindy Vu, the pigment will begin to fade after several years, requiring periodic touch-ups to maintain the desired look. The exact timing for these touch-ups depends on several factors, including the type of pigment, location on the body, client age, lifestyle, and skin type, but generally, refreshers are needed every one to three years.
Fading is not necessarily a negative aspect. Kendra Bray, the owner and founder of Better Brows & Beauty in New York City, explains that fading is actually a desirable quality in facial cosmetic work. Our facial features naturally change and age over time, and the ability to adapt the pigment as we grow older is considered ideal.
Microblading
Microblading is a method used to enhance the shape and fullness of eyebrows. This technique involves using a tiny handheld tool with fine needles to carefully implant pigment into the skin, mimicking the look of individual hair strokes. According to Berry, the pigments chosen for this procedure are tailored to match both the client's hair color and skin tone. For the most natural-looking results, it is essential to select a skilled technician who is knowledgeable in color theory and skin depth.
Microblading has become a popular choice for many, as it offers a simple way to enhance the eyebrows. It is particularly beneficial for those with thin, sparse, or uneven brows, individuals who have lost their eyebrows due to medical conditions, and anyone seeking a low-maintenance beauty solution.
Procedure Details and Cost
The microblading procedure takes approximately two hours, with a touch-up session recommended after five weeks, followed by further touch-ups every one to three years. The cost of an initial microblading session ranges between $500 and $3,500, including the first touch-up. Subsequent touch-up sessions typically cost between $300 and $550, depending on the time elapsed and the artist performing the procedure.
While this treatment is generally beneficial for most individuals, there are certain conditions that may make it unsuitable. People with specific medical issues, such as bleeding disorders or autoimmune diseases, as well as pregnant or breastfeeding women, should avoid it. Additionally, those with certain skin conditions like eczema, rosacea, or psoriasis, or individuals undergoing radiation or chemotherapy, may not be suitable candidates. Vu advises consulting with a licensed professional if you're unsure to make an informed decision.
Lip Blushing
"Lip blushing is a technique designed to provide a subtle wash of color to the lips,” explains Bray. “Tiny dots of pigment are applied to the lips in layers to gradually achieve the desired coverage. The artist uses a brushing motion with the needle to create this effect.”
Lip blushing can also serve to enhance the contours of the lips, offering a fantastic option for those who wish to define their lips without opting for more invasive treatments like lip implants or dermal fillers, according to Vu. This technique can also help diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on the lips. The selection of ink colors and coverage options is customized to the client's preference, either enhancing the natural lip color or achieving a more vivid shade.
Procedure Details and Cost
According to Berry, the results of the procedure can last anywhere from one and a half to three years, depending on factors like your skin type, lifestyle, and your daily skincare routine. While the price can differ based on the location, technique, and experience of the technician, the initial treatment typically costs around $900 on average. This includes a follow-up appointment six weeks after the procedure. Touch-up sessions, which vary based on the time passed and the artist, generally range from $200 to $550.
Permanent Eyeliner
Permanent eyeliner refers to a semi-permanent tattooing technique used to apply eyeliner. A tiny needle connected to a digital pen is used to push the pigment into the skin. Bray adds that pain tolerance can vary significantly from one individual to another.
There are various design options for permanent eyeliner, similar to traditional eyeliner. The most natural option is the lash-line enhancement, which involves placing darker pigment between the lashes to create the illusion of a fuller lash line. Berry explains this technique helps enhance the appearance of the lashes.
Some other common choices include powdered lash-line enhancements, which resemble a smudged eyeliner look, thin eyeliner, offering a subtle, thin line along the upper lash line, winged liner, which adds a dramatic, extended wing to the outer corners of the eyes, and dusty winged liner, which creates a softer, smokier winged effect. These options can be tailored to suit each client's desired results.
Permanent eyeliner is a great choice for anyone seeking a darker lash line or a constant eyeliner look without the daily application. It is particularly helpful for individuals who have sensitivities to traditional eyeliner products, as it eliminates the worry of irritation. However, those with very loose or sagging eyelid skin may not be the best candidates for this treatment, according to Bray.
Procedure Details and Cost
As with other forms of permanent makeup, the effects typically last anywhere from one to three years, depending on personal factors. The cost can vary greatly based on factors such as technique, location, and technician expertise. Both Bray and Berry state that treatments usually range from $400 to $2,000, and this price often includes a follow-up appointment six weeks after the procedure.
Freckle Tattoos
Freckle tattoos involve using a machine or handheld tool to tattoo small, natural-looking freckles onto the skin. The pigment is deposited in a pattern resembling real freckles. While the process is relatively less painful than other cosmetic tattoos, achieving a flawless result is quite challenging.
Berry explains that using pigments in this way can result in inconsistent effects, such as discoloration, blurring, and migration over time, leading to an undesirable look. Additionally, Bray points out that such treatments disqualify individuals from being candidates for future facial laser procedures, which may discourage some people from considering this option.
Procedure Details and Cost
Bray notes that freckle tattoos are generally billed per session, as the number of freckles needed to achieve the desired look can vary significantly, often requiring several appointments. The cost per session typically ranges from $200 to $500. While touch-ups may be necessary every few weeks, because freckles are applied sparingly, clients can often wait longer between sessions compared to other types of permanent makeup.
Beauty Mark Tattoos
Some individuals opt for a small beauty mark tattoo placed strategically on the face, commonly on the cheek or above the lip, for a refined or vintage look, reminiscent of Marilyn Monroe. Due to its small size, the procedure is quick to heal with minimal discomfort.
The longevity of a beauty mark tattoo ranges from one to five years, depending on factors such as skin type and aftercare. Touch-ups may be needed to maintain the beauty mark's appearance. These tattoos typically cost between $100 and $250, although the price can vary depending on the size and location of the beauty mark and the technician's location.
Risks of Permanent Makeup
According to Vu, the possibility of risk is real, even if the blade and pigments used are sterilized and carefully chosen. Potential risks of permanent makeup include infection, allergic reactions, expedited fading, or uneven results.
For example, especially with eyeliner tattooing, improper technique or poor hygiene can result in eye infections or damage to the sensitive tissues around the eyes. Another potential risk is the formation of nodules at the site of pigment injection, which can lead to uneven results or discomfort. In some cases, these nodules may interfere with MRI scans, causing complications due to the metal content in some pigments.
As with any cosmetic treatment, these risks can largely be mitigated by carefully selecting the right technician. Before getting semi-permanent makeup (or really anytime a needle is going into your skin), it’s important to do research and find a qualified, experienced, and licensed technician. Beyond the risks of potential infection and other risks, there’s the possibility of dissatisfaction with the design and art—and while it’s semi-permanent, we’re talking years, not weeks or months.
Emilia Berry, founder and CEO of PermaLine Cosmetics
While cost is a factor to keep in mind, it's crucial to prioritize choosing a licensed professional with a proven track record of successful procedures, rather than making a decision based purely on price.
How to Mitigate Side Effects and Get the Best Results
If you're worried about side effects or have any doubts, it's essential to discuss them with your artist and make sure to follow their instructions carefully. Berry emphasizes, 'I cannot stress enough how crucial it is to adhere to aftercare instructions to achieve the best possible results.' The same applies to pre-treatment care. Although the specifics will vary depending on your technician and the type of permanent makeup, there are several general guidelines you can follow.
Pre-Treatment
In the week leading up to the procedure, clients should refrain from using certain medications and substances, including blood thinners and alcohol. Additionally, it's important to avoid excessive sun exposure, topicals like retinoids and vitamin C, as well as peels or laser treatments in the treatment area or surrounding skin.
Post-Treatment
After the procedure, it’s crucial to keep the treated area clean and undisturbed for at least 24 hours. Avoid direct water contact, sweating, and exercising for a period of time. After 24 hours, Bray recommends gently cleansing the area with just water and a cotton round, then applying the ointment as directed by the technician.
For seven days post-treatment, you should avoid exposing the treatment area to water or cosmetics. Berry also advises steering clear of excessive sun exposure for a few weeks. 'Once healed, we recommend using sunscreen to protect the area from fading,' she suggests. 'Additionally, avoid applying anti-aging products directly to the treated area.'
