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While the term might seem intimidating, chemical peels can truly transform your skin. Many individuals can enhance their skincare routine by adding one. Although deep, intensive peels are best left to professionals in a sterile environment, mild versions can be safely done at home. This guide explores what to expect from an at-home peel, how to perform it safely, and expert advice to ensure success.
What Exactly Is a Chemical Peel?
A chemical peel is a skincare procedure that uses acids—often alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or enzymes—to exfoliate the skin's outer layers. By shedding dead skin cells, it addresses issues like discoloration, scars, and wrinkles. The result is a radiant, smooth, and rejuvenated appearance that’s instantly noticeable.
“Chemical peels also encourage the regeneration of new skin cells, reducing the visibility of fine lines and dark spots,” explains Merry Thornton from Element Medical Aesthetics. While typically used on the face, these treatments can be applied to other body areas. The depth of the peel depends on your skin’s sensitivity and specific requirements.
At-Home Chemical Peel vs. Professional Chemical Peel
At-home chemical peels are milder compared to professional treatments, targeting only the surface layer of the skin. Technically, they exfoliate the epidermis, whereas professional peels can reach the upper dermis. “This leads to quicker and more noticeable results but requires more recovery time,” says Thornton. “Superficial peels are also available in dermatologist offices for those seeking minimal downtime.”
While at-home peels often include enzymes or AHAs like lactic, malic, salicylic, mandelic, and glycolic acid, their concentrations are lower than those in professional peels. Higher chemical concentrations in professional treatments allow for deeper skin penetration.
Thornton explains that at-home peels yield subtler results than professional ones. However, they offer the advantage of no downtime and, with regular use, can enhance skin texture, reduce fine lines, even out pigmentation, and help with acne.
Chemical Peel Strengths
At-home chemical peels vary in intensity, but none match the strength of a professional deep peel. Different peel strengths cater to various skin types and tones, addressing specific concerns. Below are common peel strengths and the skin types or issues they best address.
- Mild: Light peels are ideal for tackling hyperpigmentation or mild acne issues. “Mild peels often use alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), sourced from fruits and milk,” says Kaylee Esplin of SkinSpirit. “They’re safe for most skin types.” Those with darker skin tones should opt for gentle peels to prevent scarring.
- Medium: Medium peels utilize beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), like salicylic acid, which are effective for moderate acne and surface wrinkles. They may also contain higher concentrations of AHAs or BHAs.
- Strong: For severe acne, scars, or deep wrinkles, strong peels are recommended. “Strong peels, such as those with trichloroacetic acid (TCA), should only be performed by professionals,” advises Esplin.
Mild to medium at-home peels are generally safe for most skin types. However, those with very sensitive skin, allergies, or conditions like rosacea should exercise caution. Thornton suggests opting for gentle, hydrating acids like lactic or glycolic in low concentrations if you have dry skin or similar concerns.
How to Perform an At-Home Chemical Peel
If you’re considering an at-home chemical peel, understanding the process is crucial. Here are essential tips and a straightforward guide to safely performing one using an approved over-the-counter product.
The most important rule for at-home chemical peels is to strictly adhere to the product’s instructions. Some peels may need to be used more or less frequently, and others may specify how long the product should remain on your skin before rinsing.
Things to Consider Before Starting
Pay close attention to how long the chemical peel stays on your skin. A frequent mistake is over-exfoliating or leaving the solution on too long, which can lead to irritation, redness, or even scarring.
“At-home chemical peels can be paired with other skincare treatments, but caution is key to avoid over-exfoliation or irritation,” advises Esplin. “Consult a dermatologist or esthetician before combining treatments to ensure the best approach for your skin type and concerns.”
“Start with a lower-strength peel and gradually increase as your skin adjusts,” suggests Esplin. “Post-peel, it’s crucial to protect your skin from the sun, as it becomes more sensitive and vulnerable to damage.”
Step 1: Cleanse and Dry
Wash your face using a mild cleanser and warm water, then gently pat it dry with a clean, soft towel. Always ensure your skin is clean before applying a chemical peel.
Step 2: Apply the Peel
Apply the peel to freshly cleansed skin and leave it on for the suggested time. Use a timer to prevent overexposure. For even application, consider using a clean cosmetic brush.
Step 3: Rinse Off
Rinse your face thoroughly with lukewarm water to ensure all traces of the peel are removed. For sticky or stubborn peels, you might need to re-cleanse with a gentle face wash.
Step 4: Hydrate and Soothe
After rinsing, apply non-active skincare products like a hydrating toner, serum, or moisturizer. Post-peel care is crucial as your skin is more vulnerable and stripped of dead cells.
How Frequently Should You Use Chemical Peels?
The frequency of at-home chemical peels depends on the peel’s strength, your skin type, and its tolerance. Mild peels can be used every few days, while medium-strength peels are best applied every two weeks. “This gives your skin time to heal and recover,” says Esplin. “If your skin is sensitive, extend the time between peels or opt for a gentler formula.”
Potential Risks of At-Home Chemical Peels
At-home chemical peels, like many skincare treatments, carry certain risks. It’s essential to carefully read instructions, check ingredients, and begin with a mild peel. Consulting a professional can help determine if an at-home peel suits your skin and provide tailored product recommendations. Below are some common risks to be aware of.
- Redness: Acids in chemical peels can cause redness, inflammation, or swelling, depending on your skin type. While mild redness is normal, deeper peels may result in prolonged redness lasting weeks or months.
- Peeling: As chemical peels remove skin layers, peeling is a common side effect. Use moisturizers and sunscreen to reduce its impact.
- Infection: At-home environments are less sterile than medical offices, increasing the risk of viral, fungal, or bacterial infections. Sanitize your workspace and wash your hands thoroughly before starting.
- Scarring: Incorrect application can worsen skin issues. Follow all instructions and safety guidelines, including moisturizing and using sun protection to prevent hyperpigmentation or scarring.
- Organ-related concerns: Strong acids like phenol in deep peels may cause heart arrhythmias or harm the liver and kidneys. This is why professional supervision is recommended for stronger peels.
