Expert Tips on Applying Makeup to Hooded or Monolid Eyes by Asian Makeup Artists

As a Filipino-Chinese girl with very limited eyelid space, I once believed I couldn’t experiment with eye makeup. I don’t exactly have hooded eyes, but my lids are so tiny that they sometimes fold over and sometimes don’t. I spent hours trying to perfect a look using shadow or liner on my eyelids, only to have it vanish the moment I opened my eyes.

Because of this, I decided to learn a single eyeshadow technique that I could replicate with any color combination I desired. When I started exploring makeup in high school, I came across a smoky eye tutorial by Michelle Phan on YouTube, and it became my go-to eyeshadow guide for the rest of my life, all the way through college.

It wasn’t until Instagram gained more popularity and Asian-American makeup artists became well-known that I discovered other people in the community getting creative with their eyeshadow. I watched them make the most of their limited eyelid space, experimenting with graphic liners, bright eyeshadow shades, and various textures, all while making their eyes stand out or even the focal point of the entire look.

I used to believe that dark eyeliner was necessary to make my eyes appear bigger, or that my lashes wouldn’t show unless I wore false lashes. However, celebrities and makeup artists taught me that I could break these ingrained rules. Just because I don’t have much eyelid space doesn’t mean I can’t experiment with my makeup.

I reached out to a few of my favorite Asian-American makeup artists to get their colorful eyeshadow tips for those with small eyelids. After all, who better to offer advice on the beauty of small eyelids than those who actually have them?

Apply Eyeshadow While Your Eyes Are Open

"I love using eyeshadows and graphic liners to accentuate features," says Patrick Ta, celebrity makeup artist & founder of Patrick Ta Beauty. "When working with limited eyelid space or hooded eyes, I prefer placing the eyeshadow while the eyes are open rather than closed, so you can see exactly where the shadow will sit. Another tip is to use a pencil brush or a small, precise shader brush to apply the product where you want it. A larger shading brush will create a too-diffuse placement."

For graphic or winged liners, Ta explains that you're creating the illusion of a straight line. However, when the eye is looking down, it essentially forms a "drop off," which means you'll need to connect the lid to the wing to avoid making the liner on the lid too thick. When the eye is open, the wing will appear fully connected, but when closed, the disconnect between the lid liner and the flick will be visible. Floating eyeliner, which uses negative space to create an outline on the crease rather than drawing directly on the lash line, is also ideal for hooded lids.

Ta predicts that bold, brightly colored eyeshadow and graphic liners will be major trends and suggests trying out monochromatic makeup looks that match your outfit.

Go for Metallics and Blend, Blend, Blend

"Copper and rosy-pink shades are trending right now and are also very wearable, adding a pop of color to an everyday look," says Marc Regan, Director of Global Education for Hourglass Cosmetics. "When working with limited eye space, it's crucial to blend eyeshadow thoroughly until there are no harsh lines. I recommend experimenting with textures and finding formulas that make application easier, like Hourglass' Scattered Light Glitter Eyeshadows in shades like Blaze, Aura, Rapture, or Ray."

For a soft, smoky eye, use your ring finger to apply the shadow across the lash line and blend it upward toward the middle of the eyelid. Regan advises focusing on the shape of the shadow so it complements the eye shape when open. Then, blend the edges upwards toward the brow bone. To intensify the definition at the outer corners of the eye, use a dark brown eyeliner, like Hourglass 1.5 mm Mechanical Gel Eye Liner in Bronze, and smudge it with a small brush. Instead of making the eye appear too deep and smoky, focus the liner near the lash line and draw the shape of the eye outward.

Finally, Regan suggests curling your lashes to achieve a lifting effect that opens up the eyes, and finishing the look with mascara: "The contrast of black mascara against the color of the shadow enhances depth and dimension without requiring the wearer to be an expert in shading into the eye socket or crease."

Smudge the Same Shadow From Your Upper Lids onto Your Lower Lash Lines

"My advice is to use a bright apricot/peach or a pop of watermelon pink as a wash on the lids," says Mai Quynh, Giorgio Armani Beauty Makeup Artist Collaborator. "Make sure to smudge the same shade along your bottom lash line as well." Quynh emphasizes that using liner is crucial to add dimension around the eyes. Opt for either a thinner liquid formula or a dark pencil smudged along the upper outer lash line and lightly along the bottom outer lash line, like Armani Beauty Smooth Silk Eye Pencil in 4.

To complete the look, Quynh always recommends using falsies or generous amounts of mascara, and advises, "Ensure the bright color remains visible and the focus is on the face. Coordinate the cheek and lip colors in the same family to achieve a summer monochromatic look."

Experiment With Bold Colors and Shapes

"My favorite bright shades are light to medium tones of turquoise, aqua, bright lavender, and fluorescence," shares Kara Yoshimoto Bua, a Chanel makeup artist. Palettes like Chanel Les 4 Ombres Eyeshadow in Au Fil Des Fleurs, which includes iridescent pink and purple shades, are ideal for experimenting with. Yoshimoto Bua loves creating a crescent moon effect with these shades by applying an upside-down, horizontal crescent on the inner eyelid contour, following the curve of the nose bridge.

She’s also fond of a chevron design. To achieve this, use a bright eyeliner, such as Chanel's Stylo Yeux Waterproof Long-Lasting Eyeliner in Fervent Blue, and draw a chevron starting at the outer crease, moving out toward the temple and back, blending into the lash line.

Define Lids With Taupey Brown and Grey Tones

"It’s all about diversity and inclusivity," says celebrity makeup artist Nick Barose. He adds, "The idea of forcing your eye shape to match some beauty ideal is outdated." Barose emphasizes that makeup should enhance your natural features. For hooded eyelids, you don’t need intense contouring or creating a crease; simple techniques that open up the eyes work best.

Barose prefers matte shadows for adding definition. "Choose mid-tone shades like taupey browns or greys to deepen the lid without going too dark," he recommends. A great option is Diorshow 5 Couleurs Couture Eyeshadow Palette in 669 Soft Cashmere, which has the ideal deep brown and rich grey to define eyes. He also suggests making eyeliner thicker than usual, as it may be hidden when the eyes are open. Two of his favorites are Lisa Eldridge Seamless Glide Eye Pencil in Black Treacle and Maybelline New York Eyestudio Master Precise All Day Liquid Eyeliner.

Smoke Out Your Eyeliner

Rather than drawing a sharp, defined line that can feel intimidating, Barose suggests drawing a line and then softening it by smoking it out. This makes the eyeliner more wearable and less harsh (essentially, don’t stress if the line isn't perfect—you’re going to smudge it anyway). Barose recommends eyeliners with a built-in smudger or a rubber end to help blur the lines. To intensify the upper lash line, he advises rimming the upper waterlines (the area below your lashes) with black liner. "This brings the eyes forward and minimizes the appearance of hooded lids," he says.

Concentrate the Color in the Center of Your Lids

Nam Vo, a celebrity makeup artist and content creator known for her "dewy dumpling" glowing skin, also creates stunning eye makeup looks, including colorful smoky eyes. Rather than following the traditional method of using a light color on the lid and a darker shade in the crease, she sometimes reverses the approach. For example, she’ll apply a dark color (like purple) to the lid, then blend a lighter, neutral color (like taupe) around it. Next, she layers a shimmering, lighter version of the darkest color (like lavender) over the lid. "This not only sets the color but gives it a multidimensional effect," she explains. To keep the look modern, Vo recommends keeping the rest of the face minimal, with glowing skin, of course.

Use Pencil as Your Shadow

Before applying makeup to hooded eyes, celebrity makeup artist Ayami Nishimura loves to start with a gentle facial massage to reduce puffiness. On freshly cleansed skin, she uses a facial oil and softly presses it below the brow bones and along the inner brow area. "Massage under the eyes, moving from the outer corners toward the inner corners, and repeat a few times," she advises. Nishimura's favorite oil for this step is True Botanicals Pure Radiance Oil.

For makeup, Nishimura prefers to highlight the natural curves of the eyes with black or brown pencil liners (her top pick is Victoria Beckham Beauty Satin Kajal Liner). She blends the liner with a brush to give it an eyeshadow-like finish, then deepens the outer corners to create the illusion of an eye socket. "It's like adding a double line to your lids and then blending it to form the look of eye sockets," she explains.