Buzz
Indoor climbing gyms, much like other intense fitness environments, can seem overwhelming to beginners. However, this doesn’t have to be the case. A widespread myth about climbing is that significant upper body strength is a prerequisite to begin.
“That’s a misconception,” explains Tess Johnson, a certified rock climber and instructor at New York’s Brooklyn Boulders. While upper body strength can be beneficial, it’s actually proper technique and determination that are key to successfully reaching the summit.
“Most of my students, about 70%, can’t perform a pull-up or push-up, or find them extremely challenging,” Tess notes. Surprisingly, lacking upper body strength can be an advantage, as it encourages climbers to prioritize correct technique over relying solely on physical power to ascend.
“Mastering technique is often more difficult than gaining muscle,” Tess adds. She frequently offers advice to help newcomers feel more comfortable and confident while climbing.
Originally reserved for mountaineers and outdoor enthusiasts, rock climbing is rapidly gaining popularity among the general public, fueled by the rise of indoor climbing gyms in cities. These facilities often provide various climbing styles, including top roping and lead climbing, which involve ropes and specialized equipment. However, beginners frequently opt for bouldering, a form of climbing that requires minimal gear since it rarely exceeds 15 feet in height. All you need to start bouldering is a pair of specialized shoes, which are usually available for rent at most indoor gyms.
Regardless of fitness level, body type, or gender, anyone can enjoy an excellent full-body workout and have a blast by adhering to these six fundamental climbing principles:
Think monkey bars, not T-Rex arms
The rookie mistake: When suspended several feet above the ground, many beginners instinctively rely on their biceps to pull themselves tightly against the wall. However, Tess refers to this as “T-Rex arms,” a technique that drains energy rapidly and leads to quick exhaustion.
The hack: Instead, mimic the motion of a child swinging on monkey bars by keeping your arms straight. This approach enhances endurance and helps you avoid being identified as a novice climber.
Extend your reach by rotating your shoulders
The rookie mistake: Beginners often make the error of keeping their shoulders perfectly aligned with the wall and perpendicular to the floor.
However, this posture, with armpits and hips pressed tightly against the wall, restricts your movement and makes distant holds appear out of reach.
The hack: Visualize rotating your shoulders at an angle, much like freestyle swimmers who tilt one shoulder back and the other forward to lengthen their stroke.
As you adjust your shoulder positioning, your hips will naturally follow. This technique will enhance your reach, allowing you to grab holds that previously seemed too far away.
Focus on your toes, not your entire foot
The rookie mistake: Climbing shoes are intentionally tight around the toes to concentrate your weight onto the rubberized, pointed tip. Many beginners, however, mistakenly climb by stepping on the arches of their feet, as if ascending a ladder.
The hack: Utilize the shoe’s design by tiptoeing up the wall. Balancing on your toes rather than your arches allows for easier pivoting and provides the ability to stand taller, maximizing your reach.
Guide with your hips, not your hands
The rookie mistake: While climbing, it’s common to focus solely on grabbing the next hold with your hands, neglecting the rest of your body. This often leads to an unconscious counterbalance, where your hips lean away from the direction you’re reaching, destabilizing your position.
The hack: When aiming for a hand-hold to your right, avoid reaching for it directly with your hands. Instead, shift your right hip toward the hold. Once your center of gravity aligns further to the right, grabbing the hold will become effortless.
Plan your route
The rookie mistake: Beginners often rush onto the wall without strategizing their path. This impulsive approach increases the likelihood of getting stuck mid-climb, wasting energy as you scramble to decide your next move.
The hack: At any climbing gym, you’ll notice experienced climbers intently studying the wall, murmuring to themselves, and mimicking movements with their hands. They’re mentally rehearsing each step before they begin their ascent.
In this scenario, Tess meticulously examines a route (marked by yellow holds) and visualizes each movement before starting. This practice reduces the risk of getting stuck halfway, conserving energy by ensuring she knows exactly what to do next.
For newcomers, developing the habit of “sequencing,” or mentally mapping out a climb, can be achieved by observing other climbers, especially those of similar build, to understand how they navigate a route.
Stretch after climbing
Rock climbing stands apart from most exercises as it engages nearly every muscle in your body. For many, the arms, particularly the hands and forearms, are the first to fatigue.
“Very few beginners have strong forearms,” Tess notes. This is why learning a few basic stretches is beneficial—they help you recover and continue climbing or simply ease muscle tension after a session.
One effective stretch targets the wrists and inner forearms. To perform it, press your palm against a wall or the floor with your fingers pointing toward your toes. This stretches the forearm muscles, which often tire quickly for novice climbers.
Another useful stretch targets the triceps, alleviating tension in the shoulders and upper arms. To perform it, bend one elbow above your head and use the opposite hand to gently pull the elbow toward your center. You’ll feel the stretch along the back of your upper arm. Alternatively, you can use a jump rope as a tool to deepen the stretch, as Tess demonstrates.
Beyond these tips, the key to climbing is simply to start. Remember, climbing gyms are welcoming spaces where beginners are encouraged, and experienced climbers are eager to offer advice.
