How do cologne, eau de parfum, and perfume differ from one another?

Chanel's "Coco" eau de toilette is priced at $68 for 1.7 ounces, while the same volume of "Coco" eau de parfum costs $85. The "Coco" parfum, however, is $105 for only 0.25 ounces.

Aside from the price, what makes them different?

The assortment of beautifully designed bottles on perfume shelves actually represents a diverse range of products. Terms like 'eau de cologne' and 'eau de parfum' are not merely stylish synonyms for 'perfume.' Perfume, like the other labels, refers to a specific type of fragrance.

In the past, the perfume formulation was the sole version of a scent, reserved for the elite who could afford the high cost of pure essential oils, which, combined with alcohol, create a fragrance. However, around the early 1900s, perfume brands began mass-producing variations of their luxurious scents to cater to a broader audience.

Today, we encounter bottles labeled eau de cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, and perfume (or parfum) -- yet many of us remain unsure about the distinctions. Is it about the scent, the target audience, or the application method?

Partly -- but the primary difference lies in concentration, or the proportion of fragrance oils in the liquid. Interestingly, concentration doesn't solely determine the intensity of the scent.

Eau de cologne, for instance, which (contrary to popular belief) is not gender-specific, can actually have a distinct aroma compared to the perfume version of the same fragrance.

Fragrance Concentration of Cologne

In 1709, chemist Johann Farina developed a unique blend of citrus and cedar, naming it after the city where it was created. Cologne, Germany, thus became the birthplace of one of the era's most beloved fragrances.

Farina's Eau de Cologne is still available today in its original formulation, and this product is the only authentic Cologne (capitalized), similar to how true Champagne originates exclusively from the Champagne wine region in France. However, today, particularly in the United States, the term 'cologne' (lowercase) is often used to refer to men's fragrances, a cultural adaptation that has become widely accepted.

All colognes, whether authentic or not, share a common trait: their essential oil concentration. Eau de cologne is a light formulation, typically comprising 2 to 5 percent essential oils in a base of mostly alcohol and water, which is standard for most fragrances. This low concentration leads to distinct characteristics. Firstly, the cost per ounce is relatively low, and the scent lasts only an hour or two. Secondly, the top notes (the initial scent upon application) are the most prominent. Since cologne dissipates quickly, other scent components often fade, making it noticeably different from other versions of the same fragrance. (See What does dry-down mean? to understand fragrance notes.)

Eau de toilette is similar to cologne in terms of concentration, containing about 5 to 10 percent fragrance oils. Some perfume brands use the terms interchangeably, along with 'eau fraîche' (or 'fresh water'), to describe a low-concentration product. Regardless of the name, this formulation allows for more frequent application without overwhelming the senses.

Eau de parfum, conversely, demands a more measured approach.

Fragrance Concentration of Eau de Parfum

If the evolution of fragrances mirrors societal trends (as many believe), the rise of eau de parfum in the 1980s might symbolize the era's archetypal user: confident, financially astute, and inclined toward extravagance.

With a higher concentration than eau de cologne and eau de toilette, eau de parfum contains approximately 10 to 15 percent essential oils. This results in a longer-lasting scent, up to five hours, reducing the need for frequent reapplication (much to the delight of busy individuals). It strikes a balance, being potent enough to last yet light enough to be conveniently packaged as a spray for on-the-go use.

This fragrance type emphasizes the middle notes, which emerge after the top notes dissipate. These middle notes, often referred to as 'heart notes,' dominate from about 15 minutes to a few hours after application and are considered the essence of the scent. While eau de parfum is pricier than eau de cologne and eau de toilette, its longevity and the ability to apply smaller quantities make it a cost-effective choice for many.

Perfume, on the other hand, is rarely considered budget-friendly. It represents the pinnacle of luxury, purity, and exclusivity.

Fragrance Concentration of Perfume

Perfume, also known as parfum, parfum extrait, or perfume extract, is the most concentrated fragrance form, historically reserved for the affluent. It is the purest formulation, containing the highest percentage of costly essential oils and minimal alcohol and water, sometimes even excluding water entirely.

Historically, perfume is the original fragrance, serving as the foundation from which all other variants are derived through dilution. Its concentration ranges from 15 to 40 percent, averaging around 25 percent. Unlike eau de parfum and eau de cologne, which can be applied generously, perfume is designed to be used sparingly, with a dropper, on pulse points like the wrists, elbows, throat, behind the ears, and between the breasts. These areas generate warmth, enhancing the fragrance's release.

Among all fragrance types, perfume boasts the longest-lasting scent, enduring up to seven hours. Its high concentration allows for a rich, layered aroma, with top, middle, and base notes fully developing over time. This depth and longevity also justify its higher price, as perfume contains a greater proportion of premium ingredients.

This explains why the "Coco" parfum is priced ten times higher than its eau de toilette counterpart. Brand reputation also significantly influences the cost, as seen with Clive Christian's "No. 1," which sells for $865 per 1.6 ounces. While concentration plays a role, it's hard to believe it's the sole factor. Notably, if you favor this scent (described by Neiman Marcus as "Oriental-ambery"), you have no alternative: "No. 1" is exclusively available as a parfum, with no eau de parfum option.