How Moissanite Stones Operate

Diamonds are renowned for their beauty and high cost, making them a sought-after choice. They hold significant cultural value as engagement symbols worldwide and are featured in everything from elegant earrings to the crowns of royalty!

Due to their popularity and high cost, diamonds have long been a target for imitation. Cut glass, rhinestones, and cubic zirconium are all efforts to replicate the diamond's allure at a more affordable price. However, none of these alternatives truly capture the diamond's shine and brilliance.

The most recent attempt to replicate diamonds is a gemstone called Moissanite. In this edition of How Stuff Works, you'll discover the fascinating details of this gemstone, including its history, characteristics, creation process, and availability!

In 1893, French scientist Dr. Henri Moissan, a Nobel Prize winner, discovered traces of a new mineral—natural silicon carbide. This mineral was found in a meteorite discovered in Diablo Canyon, Arizona. It was later named 'moissanite' in honor of Dr. Moissan, though the supply was too limited for use in jewelry.

Over a century later, Cree developed a method for creating large, individual moissanite crystals. In 1995, a skilled diamond cutter recognized the beauty of these silicon carbide crystals and suggested to Charles & Colvard's founders that, with proper cutting, these crystals could become stunning gemstones. Charles & Colvard saw the potential and realized that moissanite gemstones would need to be manufactured, as natural sources were virtually nonexistent. In 1995, Charles & Colvard collaborated with Cree, a North Carolina-based research lab, to produce larger gemstones for use in the Cree colorless development program. Together, Charles & Colvard and Cree became the exclusive global producer and marketer of lab-grown moissanite gemstones.

Moissanite Properties

• 1 - Talc: Easily scratched by a fingernail
• 2 - Gypsum: Lightly scratched by a fingernail
• 3 - Calcite: Scratches and is scratched by a copper coin
• 4 - Fluorite: Not scratched by a copper coin, does not scratch glass
• 5 - Apatite: Only scratches glass and is easily scratched by a knife
• 6 - Orthoclase: Easily scratches glass and lightly scratched by a file
• 7 - Quartz (Amethyst, Citrine, Tiger's Eye, and Aventurine): Resistant to file scratches
• 8 - Topaz
• 9 - Corundum (Sapphires & Rubies)
• 10 - Diamond: Cuts glass

Moissanite Preform

Have you ever wondered, 'Why is a diamond so hard?' Diamonds are naturally occurring minerals made of pure carbon, crystallized into one of two forms. Each carbon atom is tightly bonded to four neighboring carbon atoms, making diamonds the hardest naturally occurring substance due to these strong bonds. You've likely heard of the strength of carbon fibers—their remarkable strength comes from the same principle.

What makes silicon carbide (SiC) nearly as hard as diamond? Silicon carbide also relies on strong carbon bonds for its durability. SiC is the third hardest compound known to mankind. Furthermore, its physical and electronic properties make it the top semiconductor material for short wavelength optoelectronics, high-temperature, radiation-resistant, and high-power/high-frequency electronics (which is why Cree initially took interest in it). Moissanite is created through a combination of pressure and heat, involving silicon and carbon.

The moissanite production process begins with Charles & Colvard receiving silicon carbide crystals from Cree. These are carefully cut into small segments known as 'preforms'.

These preforms are shipped abroad to high-capacity faceting vendors who meticulously cut and polish them to Charles & Colvard's specifications, ensuring maximum brilliance and fire. The vendor attaches the preform to a guidance tool, known as a 'dop', which aids in the grinding process. Moissanite stones are shaped using a 'faceting machine', which can be likened to a spinning record player. The machine, made of steel or aluminum, contains industrial-grade diamond chips for cutting and polishing. The dop functions like the needle of a record player, guiding the preform to the spinning faceting machine. The friction between the gemstone and the machine shapes the stone, ensuring it receives an even polish as the faceting vendor works the preform.

The gemstone's lower section, or 'pavilion', is shaped by grinding. Next, the 'girdle' (the edge of the stone held by the setting) is cut and polished, followed by the cutting and polishing of the pavilion facets.

Afterward, the gemstone is removed from the dop and reattached with the top, or 'crown', exposed for cutting. The crown facets are shaped and polished. Lastly, the 'table' (the upper flat surface) is polished. The completed gemstone is then sent back to Charles & Colvard for inspection, sorting, grading, and shipping to select jewelry retailers.

Diamond Comparison Shopping

• Cut, which impacts the brilliance of a diamond, as brilliance is influenced by light optics and the precise angles that produce the greatest effect. A diamond with a deep cut will alter how light reflects within the stone, while a shallow cut diamond will appear dark because the light escapes through the back and does not reflect back through the top to the viewer's eye.
• Clarity, which refers to the number and severity of inclusions and flaws visible under 10x magnification.
• Color, the less color a diamond displays (i.e., the more it appears white), the higher its quality. However, this does not apply to rare 'fancy colored diamonds' or more affordable 'irradiated' diamonds.
• Carat, the standard unit used to measure a diamond's weight (1 carat = 200 milligrams). A carat is further divided into 100 'points,' allowing a diamond to be described as weighing 1.5 carats or 150 points.

Moissanite gemstones undergo inspection by trained graders who evaluate them on a unique scale designed for moissanite. All jewels sold are of "very good" quality, ensuring they are free of discoloration or visible flaws. Each gemstone boasts good color and is "eye clean," meaning no imperfections are visible without magnification. Moissanite’s grading differs from diamonds due to its distinct physical properties. Although cut and carat weight are assessed similarly, the weight of moissanite differs from diamond, making direct comparisons unfeasible. The price of moissanite reflects the cost of both the gold setting and the gemstone itself. Generally, with other factors being equal, a moissanite costs about 1/10th the price of a diamond.

Moissanite gemstones resemble diamonds so closely that even experienced jewelers cannot easily differentiate the two. Like diamonds, moissanite gemstones feature inclusions and variations in color. Charles & Colvard's exclusive Tester Model 590 (shown below) is the only recommended tool designed to identify moissanite from diamonds. This device accurately and effortlessly identifies colorless moissanite gemstones.

Where to Find Moissanite Jewelry

Moissanite’s popularity has only gained traction in recent years. In 1999, Charles & Colvard launched its first major advertising campaign, featuring television and print ads in Harper's Bazaar, airports, and select malls. Additional targeted ads appeared in People magazine and Southern Living. Moissanite has also been showcased at regional, national, and international jewelry trade shows. It is available only at authorized jewelers who offer custom, unique moissanite jewelry along with a Certificate of Authenticity and a Limited Lifetime Warranty from Charles & Colvard. For a list of authorized retailers, visit the Charles & Colvard Website or call 1-800-210-4367.