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If you've spent time on #skintok or browsed beauty forums, you've probably encountered retinol. This vitamin A derivative is hailed as one of the most effective skincare ingredients for fighting aging signs like wrinkles, sagging, and hyperpigmentation.
Given its powerful effects, you might be eager to use retinol as often as possible. But hold on! More doesn’t always equal better with this ingredient. There’s a strategy to follow when it comes to retinol usage, especially if you're a beginner to this anti-aging powerhouse.
Jacob Wackerhausen / Getty ImagesHow Does Retinol Work?
Retinol, a form of vitamin A, accelerates the skin's natural cell turnover and boosts the production of collagen and elastin. The result is a more balanced skin tone with a firmer, smoother texture. Expect smaller pores, diminished fine lines, and a radiant glow. However, despite its remarkable benefits, retinol can also cause some side effects.
Board-certified dermatologist Howard Sobel, MD, clinical attending dermatologic surgeon at Lenox Hill Hospital in New York City, warns, 'Using too strong of a concentration or rushing the process can lead to burning, itching, and irritated skin.'
Additional side effects include peeling, dryness, redness, and breakouts from skin purging. It’s crucial to gradually increase both the frequency of your retinol application and the strength of the formula to minimize these reactions.
When Should You Start Using It?
There isn't a universal answer since it depends on your individual skincare needs. For those struggling with acne in their teens or 20s, dermatologists suggest that retinol can help clear blocked pores and prevent future breakouts. If you’re aiming to combat signs of aging, like brown spots and crow’s feet, starting in your mid-20s is a great time to begin using it. For those in their 30s, 40s, 50s, and beyond, it remains effective for addressing these concerns as they arise.
Is There Anyone Who Shouldn't Use Retinol?
Retinol should be avoided during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Those with sensitive or reactive skin, including conditions like eczema, rosacea, or psoriasis, should proceed with caution. Fortunately, there are alternatives, like bakuchiol, which dermatologists endorse for offering similar results without the side effects.
Additionally, if you're undergoing professional treatments like lasers, microneedling, or microdermabrasion, it’s recommended to pause retinol use until after the procedure.
How Often Can You Use Retinol?
Once your skin has adapted to retinol, you can apply it daily. You can even increase the potency by using a higher concentrated formula, or by requesting a prescription for tretinoin (a stronger retinoid) from your dermatologist.
Before this can happen, though, you should ease into usage to help minimize some of the side effects listed above. Think of it more as a marathon versus a sprint, says Kseniya Kobets, MD, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist and assistant professor of Dermatology at Montefiore-Einstein.
“I recommend that you begin by using a lower strength or over-the-counter retinol to see how your skin responds,” Dr. Kobets says. “Start by applying a pea sized amount on top of a moisturizer about once a week [in the evenings]. It’s better to use once a week for several months, than experience skin irritation from daily use and being forced to stop due to intolerance.”
Even at this low frequency, you may experience some subtle side effects mentioned above. Once your skin adapts to the product you’re using, these side effects will subside. That’s a sign you can increase your retinol application frequency to several times a week, every other day, and then eventually daily (if you desire).
Using Prescription Retinoids
For skin that has adapted to over-the-counter retinol products, using a prescription-strength tretinoin may offer additional benefits, as it has a higher concentration of the active ingredient, explains Rachel Lee Lozina, a licensed esthetician. Alternatively, you can start with a low-dose prescription, applying it once a week and gradually increasing the frequency.
This prescription form is known as tretinoin, which uses a more bioavailable form of vitamin A called retinoic acid. "Prescription tretinoin comes in three strengths: 0.25, 0.5, and 1.0," Lozina explains.
Much like with over-the-counter retinol, you can gradually increase both the concentration and frequency of tretinoin use. Eventually, you may choose to apply it daily or every other day, depending on your skin's tolerance and personal preference.
Using Retinoids With Other Skincare Ingredients
How often you apply retinol or prescription tretinoin also depends on the rest of your skincare routine. As these are potent active ingredients, Dr. Sobel advises against using them simultaneously with other active ingredients like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), enzymes, benzoyl peroxide, and vitamin C. Mixing these can overwhelm your skin, disrupting its protective barrier.
It’s advisable to alternate active ingredients every other day or use one in the morning and the other at night. When using retinoids, opt for a mild, non-active cleanser, hydrate with both a serum and a cream, and remember to apply a sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher daily.
Retinol Application Tips & Tricks
Whether you're new to retinol or have been using it for a while, take note of these expert recommendations:
- Choose a High-Quality Product: Not all retinol products are created equal, so it’s important to do your research. Dr. Sobel advises, “Select a high-quality, clean, soothing retinol formula with hydrating, calming ingredients for the best results.”
- Protect Sensitive Areas: “If the skin around your lips and eyes is especially sensitive—even if you don’t directly apply it there, the product can spread—you might want to apply a rich moisturizer around these areas before using retinol,” says Dr. Kobets.
- Layer with Moisturizer: If your skin reacts strongly to retinol, try the sandwich method—apply moisturizer before and after the retinol to reduce its potency.
- Extend Beyond the Face: While it's easy to focus on your face, dermatologists suggest applying retinol to your neck, chest, hands, and even your entire body for enhanced skin firmness and radiance.
- Consider the Seasons: In colder, drier months, your skin may not tolerate the same retinoid frequency you're used to, explains Dr. Kobets. You might want to reduce how often you use retinol in winter.
- Consult a Professional: If you're unsure about which retinoid to use or if your skin’s reaction is typical, consult a dermatologist. “A professional’s guidance can simplify the process, as many people give up before even getting started or don’t use it correctly,” notes Lozina.
