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Photo: BJI / Blue Jean Images/Getty ImagesFinger waves are the ultimate symbol of classic sophistication. These distinct S-shaped waves gained popularity in the 1920s and 1930s, often linked with the flapper style of the Jazz Age. But, like many trends, the past has come full circle; today, finger waves are perfect for special occasions or if you're aiming for a vintage-inspired look, says William Luengas, stylist and senior colorist at Rob Peetom Salon in Brooklyn.
Another bonus? Despite their intricate appearance, finger waves are surprisingly easy to create with just your fingers, a comb, and a few essential products, all without relying on heat tools, which is great if you’re looking to avoid heat damage, he explains.
Keep reading for all the tips on how to bring out your inner flapper girl this season.
Necessary Tools and Products
Tools and Equipment Needed
- Styling comb
- Duckbill clips
- Blow dryer with a diffuser (optional)
Essential Materials
- Styling gel or paste
- Hairspray (optional)
Step-by-Step Instructions
Steps for Creating Finger Waves
Begin with freshly washed, damp hair.
If your hair is fully dry, lightly mist it with a spray bottle to dampen it. This makes it easier to shape and mold the waves, advises Luengas.
Apply a styling product.
Select a styling product that provides some hold throughout your hair. Olya Iudina, a stylist at IGK Soho NYC, recommends the It’s a 10 Miracle Firm Hold Hair Styling Gel. Luengas favors Davines This Is a Medium Hold Pliable Paste, which he believes is better for finer hair than a gel. This step is essential to ensure your waves hold their shape.
Divide your hair into sections.
Start by dividing your hair into top and bottom sections, creating a line from one ear to the other across the back of your head, says Luengas. Then, within these sections, create vertical divisions, usually four to six, each about one inch wide. The more sections you make, the finer and more detailed your waves will be, he adds; for bigger waves, reduce the number of sections.
Use a comb and your fingers to form the vintage wave C-shape.
Take each one-inch vertical section and use a comb to guide the hair into a C shape, recommends Iudina. Pinch the hair at the base of the C with your fingers, then shape the rest of the hair into a backward C shape, she explains.
Hold the wave in place with a duckbill clip.
A duckbill clip provides a secure hold without leaving any creases, says Luengas. The Hicarer Duckbill Hair Clips are a solid choice. Place the clip diagonally across each wave, with the flat side facing your scalp.
Continue with each section.
Form waves with each vertical section in the top part of your hair, then repeat the same process for the bottom section.
Allow your hair to dry.
Let your hair dry fully, as the waves will set while drying, explains Luengas. If you want to speed things up, you can use a blow dryer with a diffuser to help the process along.
Complete your finger waves.
When your hair is fully dry, carefully take out the clips and use your fingers to separate the waves, enhancing their definition. If you prefer extra hold, finish by lightly spraying with hairspray.
What is the history of finger waves?
Finger waves debuted in the beauty world during the 'new era' of the 1920s. Legends like Josephine Baker and Bette Davis helped popularize this modernized version of the traditional bob, and it quickly became synonymous with 1920s beauty. The style made a comeback in the 1990s, led by hip hop icons like Missy Elliot and TLC, and now, finger waves are making a powerful return to the beauty industry.
What hair types are ideal for finger waves?
Finger waves can be created on different hair types and textures, though they’re generally easiest to achieve on certain characteristics,” says Luengas. Specifically, they work best on hair that’s shorter to medium length, typically no longer than shoulder length. Longer hair can be trickier to shape into the desired wave pattern, he notes. These waves are also more successful on medium-thickness hair that’s straight or slightly wavy: “Very thick or curly hair can be more difficult, as it’s harder to counteract the natural curl pattern, especially without using heat,” explains Iudina.
