Buzz
Pullover hoodies are great, but sometimes you crave the practicality of a zip-up—especially when layering for extra warmth on those chilly winter days. This simple sewing project only requires two seams and a single cut. The best part? The design or text on the front remains fully visible.
What You Will Need
Expect to spend around $5 at your local fabric store for the essential materials: a zipper and some interfacing. If you also need pins, thread, or even a sewing machine, you might want to set aside a little more. (You can manage with a hand needle, but we use a sewing machine in the video. For a refresher, check out our how-to-sew guide if you prefer sewing the traditional way.)
A hoodie. If you’re hesitant about cutting into something you love, practice on a thrift store find first.
A separating zipper that matches the length of the front of your hoodie, or even longer. For my Mytour hoodie, I measured 25.5 inches from neckline to bottom, so I went with a 26-inch zipper like this one that cost around $4. Opt for a color that matches your hoodie, or something darker.
A quarter yard of lightweight fusible interfacing. This thin fabric will be ironed onto the center of your hoodie where you’ll make the cut. I picked up a dark-colored featherweight interfacing like this one for about a dollar per ¼ yard. The color isn’t crucial, so I typically go for black when working with darker fabrics, and white for lighter ones. You’ll cut it into strips, so the quarter yard will give you plenty of extra.
An iron and ironing board for attaching the fusible interfacing. If you don’t have these, you can skip the interfacing. But without it, the cut edges may curl, hiding the cool design that makes your hoodie so special.
Sewing essentials: pins, scissors, matching thread, and either a hand needle or a sewing machine. Be sure to have a zipper foot for your machine; if you don’t, grab one (around $4) when you head to the store.
Craft stores often offer great deals with coupons, so you might even find these items for a lower price than expected.
Locate the Center Line and Apply the Interfacing
Before getting started, you’ll need to identify the imaginary line down the middle of your hoodie where the zipper will be placed. The top is straightforward: it’s where the two sides of the hood meet. The bottom is a bit trickier, so refer to the video for guidance. Lay the hoodie with the side seams aligned, and the center bottom will be halfway between them. Mark this spot with a safety pin or use chalk to draw a line if you have it. Now, turn the hoodie inside out.
Cut strips of interfacing that are wider than the zipper—about three inches should do. Iron these strips along the centerline on the inside of the hoodie. Don’t worry if the strips don’t cover the full length; simply place them next to one another. If you look closely in the video, you’ll notice that my interfacing was initially crooked, so instead of fixing it, I just added more pieces beside the first ones. No one will notice.
Pin and Sew the Zipper in Place
While the hoodie is still inside-out, pin the zipper in place. Ensure it's perfectly straight and that the fabric isn't bunched or stretched. The zipper should be face-down, with the pull positioned where you'll be able to grab it easily once the hoodie is finished. Pin it in place—I prefer to pin lengthwise and remove them as I sew.
Before you begin sewing, make sure to replace the regular presser foot on your machine with a zipper foot. A zipper foot only touches the fabric on one side of the needle, allowing you to bring the other side closer to the zipper teeth. Adjust the zipper foot so it’s on the right side when you're facing the needle. Double-check that the machine is set to a straight stitch—anything else could break the needle. (Trust me, I’ve learned the hard way.)
Turn the hoodie right side out. I find this step helps keep track of which fabric layer I'm working on and prevents any fabric from bunching or getting accidentally caught, like a stray sleeve piece.
Now, simply stitch the zipper tape in place. I like to leave about a quarter-inch gap between my stitches and the zipper teeth. This ensures the zipper pull has enough room to move freely without getting snagged on the fabric. Watch the video to see how I position the foot: the edge of the zipper foot lines up with the edge of the zipper tape. This may not work for every zipper brand, but it’s quite helpful when it does.
Check That Everything Is Aligned, and Cut
Here’s the brilliance of this technique: cutting the front of the hoodie is the final step, which gives you all the time you need to ensure everything is just right. Try on the hoodie—the last time you’ll ever pull it over your head—and double-check that nothing went wrong. Are the stitches straight? Is the zipper creating uncomfortable lumps on your belly? Did you accidentally sew the sleeve to the chest? Don’t hesitate to rip out the seam (with a seam ripper or sharp scissors) and redo it. When you get it right, I promise, it will be worth it.
If everything looks good, you’re ready to cut. Grab your sharpest scissors and carefully snip straight down the middle, between the two seams.
Now, focus on the extra zipper tape at the top (if your zipper is longer than the hoodie). Don’t just cut it off, or you’ll risk the zipper pull sliding off the top the first time you zip it. The easiest fix is to fold the tape back at a right angle and secure it with a couple of stitches. Trim any excess.
That’s it—you’ve successfully transformed your favorite pullover hoodie into a zip-up. Enjoy your new creation!
