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Having fine hair is like owning a luxury cashmere sweater—soft and silky, yet prone to damage if not properly cared for. While we can't change the way our hair naturally grows, we do have control over how we maintain it. Fine hair requires consistent care and attention. To help fine-haired individuals, we've consulted expert hairstylists who shared their wisdom on navigating daily hair challenges and recommended the best thickening products for fine hair. Stick to these guidelines to keep your delicate strands in top condition.
1. Select a volumizing shampoo and use a clarifying shampoo weekly.
The key to styling fine hair begins in the shower with an effective thickening shampoo. Avoid sulfates, the detergents commonly found in many shampoos, as they can weaken hair follicles and increase the risk of breakage and thinning. "A volumizing shampoo helps to lift the roots and restore nutrients to weakened strands," says Nunzio Saviano, a renowned New York City hairstylist. "Incorporating a clarifying shampoo once a week eliminates extra buildup, giving your hair a fuller, denser look." Affordable options are available at most drugstores. If you're looking for a shampoo specifically for damaged fine hair, search for those formulated for this hair type.
2. Avoid shampooing too frequently.
Avoid over-shampooing fine hair. Jennifer Watson, a hairstylist and education director at Zenagen Hair Care, explains, "Most people with fine hair feel the need to wash daily due to greasiness after just one day. However, fine hair only requires shampooing two or three times a week. Over-washing triggers excess oil production, resulting in flat, lifeless hair. Reducing shampoo use allows natural oils to add volume and manageability."
For managing oil on second-day hair, opt for dry shampoo. Stylists recommend using the powdery product to absorb excess oil and add volume. Dr. Tsippora Shainhouse, MD, FAAD, a dermatologist in Beverly Hills, advises, "Just make sure to wash it out after using it one to three times consecutively, as buildup can irritate the scalp and dry out fine strands, leading to breakage."
3. Apply conditioner, but in moderation.
Though it may seem counterintuitive, conditioner can be beneficial for fine hair, especially when paired with a volumizing shampoo. Dawn Clemens, hairstylist and founder of LarweHair, notes, "Volumizing shampoos can be quite drying, which may cause the scalp to produce excess oils." A moisturizing conditioner helps restore balance and prevent oil production that weighs hair down. Saviano adds, "Never apply conditioner directly to the scalp—only to the mid-lengths and ends—and avoid formulas with heavy molecules and additives. For most hair types, a nickel-sized amount is sufficient. If using a leave-in conditioner, choose one that's lightweight and suitable for fine hair."
4. Consider using a volumizing mousse.
Dealing with fine hair can make choosing the right products feel like a gamble. Simply picking something labeled 'volumizing' isn’t enough—some volumizing formulas can actually dry out your hair, making it brittle. A few key tips: Avoid heavy products like pomades, oils, and waxes that coat the hair, as they can weigh your fine strands down. Also, steer clear of protein treatments, as they may add too much weight due to the thin nature of fine hair. 'Protein treatments coat the hair, but because yours is thin in diameter, the coat might be too heavy,' explains Ghanima Abdullah, a licensed cosmetologist from Chicago.
Instead, opt for products that provide both moisture and volume. 'Applying a lightweight volumizing mousse from roots to ends helps thicken fine hair without adding weight,' advises Jenna Marie Shafer, a hairstylist based in New York City. 'Try Amika Plus Size Perfect Body Mousse, which delivers intense volume and hydration with a light, whipped texture.'
5. Let your hair air-dry 75 percent.
Fine hair should follow the 75 percent air-dry rule. 'This means letting your hair air-dry until it's about 75 percent dry,' says Michon Kessler, a hairstylist at Haven Salon Studios. 'Wet hair is most prone to stretching and breakage, so it's helpful to use a
6. Limit the use of heat styling tools.
Due to its delicate nature, fine hair is highly susceptible to breakage, making excessive heat styling a bad idea. However, if you do need to use a curling iron, choose one with a low heat setting and other protective features designed for fine hair. For a heat-free styling option, try hair rollers. 'When rolling, match the section size to the roller's diameter (for example, a two-inch roller requires a two-inch section of hair),' explains Abdullah. 'For added volume, roll at a 90-degree angle to your head and secure the roller all the way down to the scalp.'
7. Brush your hair every day.
Fine hair is more prone to tangling, which, if left unattended, can lead to breakage. Don’t be alarmed by the hair that sheds—brushing fine hair is an effective way to stimulate the scalp and promote growth, says Shafer. There are several brushes designed for fine hair. 'When brushing, hold the hair near the scalp to gently detangle. Use a brush with soft or flexible bristles, such as a natural boar bristle brush, to avoid stressing the hair while brushing,' she suggests.
8. Use scalp oils.
Before you shy away from oils, consider this: Dr. Shainhouse recommends using scalp oils to nourish the scalp and foster healthy hair growth. 'Scalp oils help moisturize and fortify the skin barrier, with hydrating ingredients like argan, shea, almond, sunflower, and safflower oils.' Plus, massaging these oils into your scalp can stimulate circulation and promote growth. You can also try rice water, which is rich in vitamins, minerals, and amino acids that support hair and scalp health.
9. Sleep on a silk pillowcase.
Shelly Aguirre, a hairstylist at Maxine Salon in Chicago, is a firm believer in the benefits of silk pillowcases for smooth hair. While silk pillowcases offer various advantages, they are especially beneficial for fine hair. 'The smoothness of satin causes less damage as it minimizes friction compared to cotton pillowcases,' she explains. This means fewer frizz, flyaways, and breakage when you wake up.
10. Keep up with regular trims and haircuts.
To help your hair stay strong—and even grow longer—the secret lies in regular trims. 'Fine hair needs more frequent trims than other hair types since it's more prone to split ends,' says Kessler. 'These splits can work their way up the strand, thinning the hair further.' While there's no set rule, stylists typically recommend scheduling trims every six to eight weeks.
11. Change your hairstyle occasionally.
Sorry to disappoint, but you can't actually make your hair thicker. However, with the right styling tricks, you can create the illusion of fuller hair. 'A deep side part can give the appearance of volume, while a jagged part helps the top layers stand up, making the hair appear thicker,' says celebrity hairstylist Martino Cartier. Another tip for thicker-looking hair? Ask your stylist for lowlights or highlights. 'The contrast of lowlights and highlights tricks the eye into perceiving more hair than there really is,' says Kessler.
12. Determine if your hair is fine or thinning.
If you're feeling dissatisfied with your hair, the first step in achieving your desired look is understanding what you’re working with. This begins with knowing the difference between fine and thinning hair. Fine hair refers to the width of each individual strand, which is thinner than a thread. Thinning hair, on the other hand, involves the density of your strands on your scalp, essentially how much hair you have overall.
If your concern is thinning hair, Dr. Shainhouse recommends looking for ingredients such as minoxidil and saw palmetto. 'Try Keranique Scalp Stimulating Shampoo, which contains minoxidil—the same ingredient found in Rogaine,' she suggests.
13. Rinse with cold water.
Ted Gibson, a celebrity hair stylist, swears by rinsing hair with cold water after a regular shower to benefit fine hair. He explains, "Hot water opens the hair cuticle, allowing moisture, protein, and nutrients to enter the hair. On the other hand, cold water closes the cuticle, locking in moisture and creating shinier, softer hair." Gibson emphasizes that skipping the cold water rinse could mean wasting the investment in high-quality hair products.
14. Exfoliate your scalp.
Rachel Watson, a hair loss and fine hair expert at Indigo Collective Salon in New Jersey, insists that our scalps need exfoliation just like the rest of our skin. Regular scalp exfoliation helps remove dead skin cells and product buildup that can weigh down hair and leave it looking limp. Watson claims that using a scalp exfoliator can even make your blowouts last a day or two longer, so get scrubbing!
15. Try a new application method.
Katherine Hayes, a specialist in fine and thinning hair from Scottsdale, suggests using a "lift and spray" technique when applying hairspray for a longer-lasting hold that doesn't weigh hair down. She cautions against the common mistake of spraying hairspray in a circular motion over the top of the head, which can create a stiff, heavy layer that collapses. Instead, Hayes recommends spraying the hairspray in small sections underneath the hair for optimal hold.
