Buzz
Sandbags are simple to make, but getting them right can be tricky. Even if you buy sand in a pre-made bag from the store, drop it a few times, and you'll quickly see that the sand and the bag don't stay together for long.
A durable sandbag is essential because it's a versatile tool for a full-body workout. You can lift, toss, and carry it in a variety of ways. Deadlift it, carry it on your shoulder, clean it, jerk it, or even do a burpee while you’re at it, calling that a man-maker. Throw it in front of you, run after it, and toss it again. A strong, reliable sandbag is crucial for all of that.
After thorough research on DIY sandbag tutorials and trying out different techniques, we've put together some advice on the best method to construct your own sandbag.
The Filler
Sand is an option, but it tends to slip out of seams and gaps. Its density makes it a great choice if you want a small, heavy bag.
Pea gravel weighs and costs about the same as sand, but it's not as sandy. It may not be the most comfortable on your shoulder. Larger stones might work, but the bigger the rocks, the more your shoulder will feel like it’s been pummeled by a bag of stones.
Two lighter materials worth considering are wood pellets, typically used as fuel for wood stoves. They’re roughly half the weight of sand and about the size of Hot Tamales candy. While there may be a bit of sawdust, it’s not much. They’re a cleaner alternative to sand.
Rubber mulch is a lightweight option that’s useful for creating a large sandbag that won’t weigh too much. However, it tends to be pricier than the other materials.
Here are the important figures for these four options, along with the prices I found during my shopping trip:
Sand: approximately $4 for 50 pounds, which equals 0.5 cubic feet
Pea gravel: about $4 for 48 pounds, also covering 0.5 cubic feet
Wood pellets: roughly $5 for 40 pounds, equaling 1 cubic foot
Rubber mulch: around $10 for 21 pounds, providing 0.8 cubic feet
The Liner Bags
What is the right container for sand? Definitely not a canvas bag—that comes later. Regardless of the filler you choose, it's important to place it inside something that’s resistant to sand, waterproof (optional but highly recommended), and able to be sealed securely.
If your sandbag gets wet, it will become heavier. While this might have its advantages, it could also lead to mold, mud, or unpleasant conditions. If you plan to use it outdoors, waterproofing is the ideal option. Consider these alternatives:
Sandbags used for constructing dikes during floods
Car tire inner tubes (used on their own, these are referred to as Bulgarian training bags).
Large zip-top freezer bags (preferably double or triple bagged).
Heavy-duty “contractor” trash bags (3 mil thickness or more), ideally double or triple bagged.
Take a moment to consider how many liner bags you need. For example, if you have 50 pounds of sand, you might prefer to create one 20-pound bag and one 30-pound bag. This way, you’ll have multiple workout options (you can use one or the other, or both).
Avoid overstuffing the bags, or you’ll end up with rigid, dense bricks. A vital feature of a sandbag is its ability to slump and adjust to the shape of your shoulder. Make sure to leave some space in the liner bag you choose. Once it’s filled, tie a knot to seal it, then apply plenty of duct tape to secure the seams and keep the bag stable.
If you don’t have inner tubes available, contractor trash bags are probably your best bet. They're affordable, typically costing $15 to $20 for a pack of 24. They're large enough to give you extra plastic to work with. Wrap it tightly around the sandbag (or cut it to size if needed), and secure the edges with tape to create a sealed package.
The Outer Bag
In my opinion, the best sandbags are designed like a duffel bag with two short handles positioned parallel to each other (unlike the usual orientation of duffel bag handles). Brute Force sandbags are one such commercially available brand made this way. If you find a brand you love, you can always purchase their empty bags. However, if you’re crafting your own, you might not want to spend $80 on just the empty bag.
Consider checking out military surplus bags. These are typically durable, often made of canvas, and can be found at a low price. Look for a duffel bag or a simple drawstring barracks bag.
Alternatively, you can find a bag at a thrift store. Avoid bags with stiff bottoms, small plastic feet, or seams with piping (those seams are likely to burst as soon as you throw it). If you have to choose between a sturdier bag with extra features and a simpler, more flimsy one, go with the simpler option.
No commercially available duffel bag will come with handles in the perfect arrangement, but you can easily modify it with a needle and thread. Here’s what you’ll need:
Heavy-duty upholstery or quilting thread
A medium-sized sewing needle
Scissors
A thimble (optional)
Cut one of the duffel bag straps about two inches from where it’s attached to the bag. Then, cut the other strap on the diagonally opposite side. This will give you two free straps. Trim both to your desired length and sew each one onto the other's remaining stub. (Make sure to use backstitch and sew a square with an X in the middle.)
If the bag has any extra straps, remove them or tape them down securely with duct tape. After that, enjoy using it! Be sure to check the liner bags every few workouts to ensure nothing has developed a leak. If needed, reinforce them with more duct tape or additional layers of garbage bags.
