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Non-straight hair is often generalized into a single category, with the assumption that all curls, waves, kinks, and coils can be treated the same. However, those with curly hair understand this is far from accurate—identifying your curl type and establishing an effective routine requires significant effort.
How can you determine your curl type? Hairstylist Andre Walker introduced a curl classification system that remains widely used today. This system categorizes hair textures using numbers 1 through 4, where 1 represents straight hair and 4 signifies kinky textures, with subcategories A to C indicating pattern size. For instance, 1A hair is pin-straight and fine, only holding curls when styled with tools like curling irons.
Navigating product choices, exploring new ingredients, and mastering styling techniques can be overwhelming. To simplify, we consulted professional hairstylists to explain the various curl types, helping you identify your curls, make informed purchases, and style more effectively.
Curl Pattern Types
Curly hair broadly refers to textured hair, ranging from soft waves to tight coils. To accurately identify your curl type, begin by examining your scalp and observing the growth pattern of your hair follicles. "Curly hair follicles are oval or asymmetrical, creating an elliptical shape that forms curls. In contrast, straight hair follicles are round, allowing hair to grow evenly," explains Gaia Tonanzi, senior brand manager at Curlsmith.
The ideal time to analyze your hair follicles is when your hair is wet, as water reduces volume and reveals the natural pattern. Tonanzi emphasizes that most individuals have a mix of curl patterns rather than a single type. "Hair growth varies across the scalp—strands at the nape of the neck often have looser curls compared to those at the front or sides," she adds.
With the basics covered, let’s explore the specifics. Use the curl type chart as a reference, and continue reading for an in-depth breakdown of each curl type and the best products to use.
MytourType 2
Type 2 hair varies from fine to coarse, encompassing textures from loose waves to gentle curls. These curls maintain their form but are prone to losing volume or can be straightened with ease.
2A
2A hair is characterized by its fine, tousled texture, which can be easily smoothed with a hair straightener
2B
2B hair features a flatter crown with more pronounced S-shaped waves starting from the mid-length. The strands are thicker compared to 2A. DiMeo suggests using a "sea salt texture spray to enhance the hair's natural wave pattern."
2C
2C hair is thicker in texture, prone to frizz, and features well-defined S-shaped waves that begin at the roots. Maintaining moisture is crucial for this hair type. DiMeo advises using sulfate-free shampoos, such as L’Oreal Paris EverPure Sulfate-Free Shampoo, to preserve natural oils. He also suggests layering styling creams over mousse to enhance waves and provide hydration.
Type 3
Type 3 hair includes a range of textures, from loose S-shaped curls to tight, springy ringlets.
3A
3A hair features large, loose curls but is delicate, so minimizing touch is essential to prevent frizz and maintain curl integrity. DiMeo recommends applying a curl cream with moisturizing and anti-frizz properties to damp hair to lock in hydration and reduce frizz during air drying or diffusing. A great drugstore conditioner for curly hair is Not Your Mother’s Tahitian Gardenia Flower and Mango Butter Conditioner.
3B
3B hair consists of bouncy, coarse ringlets that are often prone to dryness. DiMeo suggests using products with humectants, which draw moisture into the hair, to combat dryness. A styling gel with humectants can define curls and minimize frizz. For styling, the Denman D3 Original Styler hair brush is highly recommended for its effectiveness on curly hair.
3C
3C hair is characterized by tight, corkscrew curls that are densely packed and full of natural volume. This hair type is highly susceptible to humidity and frizz. DiMeo recommends using sulfate-free shampoos and layering mousse and styling creams on wet hair to help curls clump together, creating a softer, stronger, and more defined curl pattern. A top recommendation for this hair type is Virtue Curl Shampoo, one of the best shampoos for maintaining moisture and curl integrity.
Type 4
Type 4 hair features tight, small, kinky curls that are naturally dry, with textures ranging from fine to coarse.
4A
4A hair features a distinct curl pattern with springy, S-shaped coils that are tightly packed and require regular care to stay manageable. DiMeo advises using a curl cream and a leave-in conditioner enriched with moisturizing ingredients to provide daily hydration and simplify styling. For scalp health, opt for a scalp massager specifically designed for type 4 curls to detoxify and minimize buildup.
4B
4B hair is characterized by densely packed strands forming sharp Z-shaped angles rather than coils. Due to its high susceptibility to dryness, DiMeo recommends using gentle cleansing conditioners and incorporating moisture sprays and leave-in conditioners to keep hair hydrated between washes.
4C
4C hair is more delicate than 4B, with a tight zigzag pattern that often leads to shrinkage. It’s crucial to avoid sulfates, which can strip moisture and dull the hair. DiMeo suggests using natural oils like argan, shea butter, and coconut oil, along with heavier creams, to maintain hydration. A recommended product is SheaMoisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen & Restore, a hair-thickening shampoo ideal for this curl type.
