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Image: Getty ImagesI always thought that seeing flyaways meant damaged and broken hair. But one day, I asked my stylist about how to manage my breakage, only to learn that my flyaways weren't breakage at all; they were actually a sign of new hair growth.
I couldn't believe it when I found out that those little flyaways I had been worrying about were simply new hairs trying to grow. This revelation made me curious to understand the differences between breakage, new growth, and baby hairs. To get answers, I reached out to several hair experts to help clarify the signs of each and how best to care for them.
How do I distinguish between breakage, new growth, and baby hair?
The most reliable way to differentiate between breakage, new growth, and baby hairs is by their appearance and placement. According to Nikki Lee, a professional hairstylist and co-founder of InCommon Beauty
Riawna Capri, professional hairstylist and co-founder of InCommon Beauty, states that "Breakage can happen anywhere, particularly in areas where blonde dye is overprocessed, where heat tools are frequently used, or where your hair is tied up in a ponytail or bun all the time."
Hairstylist Leo Izquierdo, co-founder of IGK Hair Care, explains that breakage can show up differently. "It can present itself as split ends, the ends may be thin compared to the roots, or the hair may be frayed and rough," he says. "On the other hand, baby hairs are typically fine and consistent from root to tip."
According to Capri, breakage and new growth are distinguishable because new growth will be uniform in length across the entire head. "If the flyaways are only concentrated in one spot, it’s more likely breakage," she explains.
"New growth may stick out, but it is generally easier to manage and will blend well with the style you're trying to create," says Izquierdo. "Flyaways caused by breakage, on the other hand, often have frayed ends and a texture that differs from the hair growing from the roots."
How can I care for breakage?
If you often color or use heat styling on your hair and suspect that the smaller hairs are a result of breakage, it's a good idea to treat your hair with moisturizing products and minimize heat styling as much as possible.
Izquierdo suggests using hair oil to help manage and control flyaways, keeping them in place and ensuring they blend with the rest of your hair. He recommends IGK Best Life 100% Plant-Powered Nourishing Hair Oil, which is light yet nourishes and promotes healthy-looking hair.
For another way to style breakage and give your hair a break from heat, professional hairstylist Adam Federico, director of content at R+Co, suggests a sleek hairstyle. "To manage breakage, I like to spray a boar bristle brush with R+Co Vicious Strong Hold Hairspray, which is both firm and flexible," he says. "Then, I gently brush over the breakage, which helps smooth out what you might consider flyaways."
Ultimately, Lee advises minimizing heat styling as much as possible, but if it’s absolutely necessary, be sure to use a heat protectant like InCommon Beauty Magic Myst Universal Hair Elixir, which also helps hydrate and repair damaged hair. Using a quality hair detangler will also help you gently work through tangles without causing breakage.
How can I care for new growth and baby hair?
"The key with new hair growth is to leave it be," says Capri. The same applies to baby hairs. "Since baby hairs are delicate and we want to promote their healthy growth, I don’t recommend styling them too often," says Federico.
All the professionals we consulted agree that it’s important to treat new growth and baby hairs gently. Investing in a nourishing hair care routine with moisturizing products that encourage healthy growth is essential. "Use moisturizing products to protect and seal in moisture, and avoid excessive heat when you can," adds Izquierdo.
