How to Incorporate a Gua Sha Routine to Reduce Puffiness and Enhance Your Skin's Radiance

If you're into skincare tools and rollers, chances are you've heard about gua sha—this small, flat stone that works wonders for defining cheekbones you never knew you had. Pronounced "gwah-sha," it's an ancient Chinese practice designed to stimulate circulation, relax muscles, and boost blood flow. Think of it as a perfect blend of skincare, massage, and self-care—similar to the way a scalp massager benefits your hair care routine.

"The direct translation of 'gua' is 'scrape,' and 'sha' means 'sand,' referring to the faint dark marks that appear on the skin, resembling light bruises, following a gua sha body treatment," explains Patricia San Pedro, an esthetician, the founder of Sunina Skin, and the author of Face Fitness.

While facial gua sha is particularly popular at the moment, the technique can be applied to the entire body. The movements are gentle—there's no actual scraping involved and only a delicate pressure is used—but the results are undeniable: glowing skin that appears more sculpted and firm.

Different Types of Gua Sha Tools

Gua sha tools come in a variety of shapes and sizes, each designed to target different areas of the face and body.

"Gua sha tools come in shapes like hearts, moons, and various rectangular forms. Some feature comb-like edges, pointed tips, curly curves, or concave shapes for different facial regions," explains San Pedro. "There are also specialized gua sha tools such as the 'mushroom' design for the eye area, and longer, stick-like acupressure gua shas tailored for specific functions."

Regardless of their shape, all gua sha tools have gently rounded edges to ensure they won't harm your skin. Besides their unique forms, gua sha tools are crafted from different materials, such as rose quartz, turquoise, jade, obsidian, glass, or even wood. The idea is that each material has its own distinct healing properties.

"Each material has different energetic and therapeutic benefits for our body, so when selecting a gua sha tool, choose one that aligns with your personal needs," says esthetician Elina Fedotova, founder of Elina Organics Spas.

Advantages of Incorporating a Gua Sha Routine

Those who are passionate about gua sha emphasize that the practice offers two primary benefits: physical and mental.

Physically, "Gua sha enhances your complexion, contours and defines your features, and smoothes out wrinkles and fine lines," says Taylor Campbell-Semien, a certified family nurse practitioner and owner of Restorative Injectables. Some also report that it helps alleviate TMJ, headaches, and sinus congestion.

"Gua sha tools are effective in reducing inflammation and puffiness through facial massage with gentle compression," explains Stefani Kappel, MD, a board-certified dermatologist. "It also supports lymphatic drainage and microcirculation in the cosmetic subunits of the face. This is particularly helpful for the under-eye area in the morning to reduce swelling, as interstitial fluid tends to accumulate there overnight when lying flat."

On the mental side, San Pedro shares, "To me, any form of self-care can become a meaningful ritual. Using gua sha feels grounding for my spirit and inner well-being. When I integrate this ritual into my skincare routine, I feel balanced as I breathe through the motions and clear my mind."

A Guide to Using Gua Sha

Excited to use your gua sha tool like a seasoned professional? It's a simple technique that anyone can easily learn.

1. Step 1: Cleanse and Tone

It's ideal to perform gua sha on freshly cleansed skin. If you're using toner, apply it right after cleansing. Be sure that both your hands and the gua sha tool are clean. Just a small amount of cleanser and water will do the trick.

2. Step 2: Apply a Facial Oil

Generously apply a layer of facial oil to your face, neck, and chest. The oil helps the gua sha tool glide smoothly over your skin. If you prefer to use a cream or water-based lotion instead, that's fine too. Just keep in mind that you might need to reapply it during your session.

3. Step 3: Perform Gua Sha

Now it's time to begin your gua sha routine. Hold the tool at a 30 to 45-degree angle and gently glide or scrape it across your skin. Make sure to use minimal pressure. As a general guideline, all movements should be upward and follow the lymphatic flow. Perform each motion three to five times before moving on to the next area.

Campbell-Semien suggests the following movements for your gua sha facial routine:

• Jawline and chin: Begin at the center of your chin and glide the tool upward towards the earlobe to sculpt and define the jawline.
• Forehead: Start in the center of your forehead and divide it into three sections, moving the tool outward. Scrape once, then reposition slightly and scrape again.
• Cheeks: Starting from the nose, use a sweeping motion upward along the cheeks and cheekbones, moving outward toward your ears. Scrape once, move slightly down and scrape again, then move a bit lower to the chin and scrape once more.
• Under the Eyes: Start at the inner corner of your eye and gently glide outward toward the temple.
• Brows: Glide upwards along the brow bone, starting from the inner edge and moving outward.
• Lips: Gently glide over your lips back and forth five times to achieve a plumping effect.
• Neck: Divide your neck into four sections and gently scrape each section from the bottom up.

4. Step 4: Remove Excess and Finish Your Routine

If you prefer, you can massage any leftover product into your skin with your hands, or gently wipe away any remaining oil or cream using a damp cloth. Then, continue with the rest of your usual skincare routine.

Frequently Asked Questions

• How often should you use a gua sha?

  For optimal results, experts suggest using gua sha three to four times a week for about three to five minutes each session.

• Should you apply moisturizer before or after using gua sha?

  You'll need to apply a serum or oil to your skin for proper "slippage" during the gua sha. Some people prefer to use their moisturizer at this point, while others apply it after completing their gua sha routine as the final step.

• Is it better to do gua sha in the morning or at night?

  Gua sha offers distinct benefits depending on the time of day. If you're looking to reduce puffiness, a morning gua sha session is ideal. On the other hand, a nighttime gua sha routine is perfect for unwinding and easing stress to prepare for restful sleep.