How to Layer Skincare Ingredients the Right Way, According to Dermatologists

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What’s the correct sequence for applying skincare products like retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, and more? — @bettyrosegold

There’s nothing like the thrill of bringing a new skincare product into your routine, but the tricky part comes when it’s time to figure out exactly where it fits. While there’s plenty of buzz around what order to apply skincare products (the general consensus is thinnest to thickest for optimal absorption), the ingredients in each formula deserve just as much attention.

Unless your skincare routine is limited to just a cleanser and moisturizer (and in that case, it might be time for an upgrade), you’re likely incorporating a variety of ingredients. The catch is, we aren’t born knowing the right order to apply these products, and that can be a real challenge. Incorrect layering can render products ineffective or, worse, cause irritation, leaving you frustrated with your skincare routine altogether.

One way to understand skincare ingredients is by considering their pH levels. Your skin's natural pH falls between 4.5 and 5.5, so the order in which you apply products should follow the sequence from lowest to highest pH. This means that acidic products (pH 3.0 to 4.0) should come first, followed by more neutral products (pH 5.0 to 7.0). For instance, vitamin C, which functions best at a lower, more acidic pH, should be applied before hyaluronic acid, which has a pH above 5.0.

Of course, skincare can get pretty tricky without adding pH levels to the equation (no one wants to measure pH with litmus strips every time). So, let’s make it simpler and take a more straightforward approach, focusing on one key ingredient at a time to help you build your routine.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C (commonly in the form of L-Ascorbic Acid) is one of the most powerful and abundant antioxidants found in the skin. When applied to the skin, it brightens your complexion and helps counteract the damage caused by free radicals. While there’s no rule against using vitamin C in the evening, many people prefer to apply it during the day, as its antioxidant properties help protect against pollution and other environmental stressors.

Retinol

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A and is considered the gold standard in anti-aging skincare. However, retinol makes your skin more vulnerable to UV rays, and sunlight can reduce its effectiveness, which is why it’s best to limit its use to nighttime. Since retinol can also cause irritation, board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, MD, suggests applying a moisturizer (like hyaluronic acid) beforehand to create a hydrating barrier. If you’re pregnant or breastfeeding, it’s advisable to avoid retinol altogether.

AHAs and BHAs

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) come from natural sugars and are primarily used for exfoliation. The most common AHAs found in skincare are glycolic acid and lactic acid, though citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and mandelic acid are also used. Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), on the other hand, are oil-soluble. The most well-known BHA is salicylic acid, a willow bark extract frequently used to treat acne.

While AHAs and BHAs are highly effective, their potency comes with the risk of skin irritation and heightened sensitivity. That’s why it’s important not to use acids alongside retinol, which also boosts skin sensitivity, advises Dr. King. Additionally, even though it’s not an acid, Dr. King also warns against combining retinoids with benzoyl peroxide, as it will deactivate the retinoid and reduce its effectiveness.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide may not always grab the spotlight like retinol or vitamin C, but it’s a hidden gem in skincare that deserves more recognition. In simple terms, it’s a form of vitamin B that plays a crucial role in the skin's cellular functions, especially its anti-inflammatory properties. Dermatologists agree that niacinamide pairs wonderfully with retinol and AHAs because it soothes irritation, enhancing the effectiveness of both. The AHAs also help exfoliate dead skin cells, allowing the niacinamide to penetrate better and work more effectively.

However, niacinamide can significantly reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C, so Dr. King recommends saving niacinamide for your evening skincare routine.

Hyaluronic acid

Much like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid is a water-based ingredient that helps bind moisture to the skin, increasing hydration levels. It’s also one of the easiest ingredients to add to your skincare routine since it pairs well with nearly every product, including some of the best moisturizers for oily skin. Hydration is essential at any time of day, so feel free to apply it in the morning and/or night.

Salicylic Acid and Benzoyl Peroxide

For those prone to acne, a spot treatment may be a good option. Use benzoyl peroxide (BP) to tackle whiteheads as it targets acne-causing bacteria. For clogged pores and inflamed bumps, try salicylic acid (but apply them one at a time to prevent irritation). The best way to apply is after your serums and before your moisturizer. Apply a thin layer to the affected area, wait about a minute for it to dry (if you skip this step, you might smear it), then finish with your moisturizer.

Peptides

Dermatologists refer to peptides (short chains of amino acids) as the building blocks of proteins in the skin. Though naturally present in the body, their levels decrease over time. Adding them to your skincare routine can strengthen your skin barrier and boost collagen production. While they’re appearing in everything from lip and lash treatments to hair care, here we focus on their use in face serums and moisturizers. Peptides work for all skin types but don’t mix well with acids, particularly salicylic and glycolic acids, or with retinol. Therefore, use them on nights you aren’t using those ingredients, or alternate by using peptides in the morning and retinol at night.

SPF

SPF, commonly known as sunscreen, may seem like a simple concept. When to use it? Most likely, the morning. But what about the application order? It’s usually best to apply sunscreen last, especially mineral sunscreens. According to Dr. King, this is because zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, the key ingredients in mineral sunscreens, form a protective layer on the skin that scatters and deflects UV rays, preventing them from penetrating the skin. Applying them last makes perfect sense.

Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, work differently. These contain chemicals that absorb UV rays, transform them into heat, and then release it from the skin. An example would be Innisfree Daily UV Defense Sunscreen, a top-rated face sunscreen. Dr. King advises that these sunscreens should be applied before any occlusive products (like moisturizers) to ensure maximum absorption.

The Best Order to Apply Skincare Ingredients

Let’s consolidate everything we’ve learned so far. Keeping in mind the characteristics of each skincare ingredient, here’s the ideal order in which to apply them for the best results.

Morning

1. Cleanser (If your skin is dry or sensitive, feel free to skip this step.)
2. Toner (This step is optional. Choose a toner that is alcohol-free and contains hydrating ingredients, or consider one with chemical exfoliants if you're prone to acne.)
3. Vitamin C Serum
4. Hyaluronic Acid Serum
5. Eye Cream (optional)
6. Moisturizer
7. SPF

Nighttime

1. Cleanser
2. Toner (optional)
3. Hyaluronic Acid Serum
4. Eye Cream (optional)
5. Retinol OR AHA/BHA Serum
6. Niacinamide
7. Face Oil (optional)

The reason we suggest applying retinol between hyaluronic acid and niacinamide is that this layering method, known as the sandwich technique, helps to minimize potential irritation by sandwiching the retinol between moisturizing ingredients.

That said, it's not necessary to use both niacinamide and HA together since both are water-based treatments. There's also no requirement to stick to products from a single brand or apply each ingredient individually. Many skincare products are designed as hybrids, already combining these active ingredients into one formula.

"I lean towards a simpler routine rather than one filled with multiple steps," Dr. King shares. "The main idea is that, much like Marie Kondo's approach, you identify the products that work best for you and eliminate the unnecessary ones."

To put it simply, each person's skincare regimen will vary, but the core concept remains the same: you're reaping the benefits of all these ingredients. Now that you've absorbed a wealth of knowledge on skincare ingredients, you can confidently layer your products like an expert.