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Exfoliation is a crucial step in any skincare regimen, regardless of skin type. However, there's a delicate balance between its positive effects and potential harm. If you immediately resort to exfoliating when you notice breakouts or lackluster skin, you may end up causing over-exfoliation.
Excessive sensitivity and irritation are common symptoms of over-exfoliated skin, but with some adjustments to your routine, you can restore your complexion. We consulted with skincare professionals for tips on healing over-exfoliation and avoiding it in the future.
How Do You Recognize Over-Exfoliated Skin?
Over-exfoliated skin occurs when your skin becomes sensitive from excessive exfoliation or using exfoliators that are too abrasive. Since exfoliation helps remove dead skin cells and buildup, overdoing it with frequent exfoliation, harsh products, or leaving them on for too long can damage the skin barrier.
Some individuals may experience signs of over-exfoliation after just one use, while others can exfoliate multiple times a week without any negative effects. If you’re overdoing it, the irritation will be noticeable.
"A key indicator of any skin irritation, including over-exfoliation, is a burning or stinging sensation when applying lotions," explains board-certified cosmetic dermatologist Robert Finney, MD, FAAD.
Esthetician Taylor Worden highlights additional symptoms of over-exfoliated skin, such as redness, dryness, burning, peeling, rashes, breakouts, inflammation, tenderness, and stinging.
How to Repair Over-Exfoliated Skin
Fortunately, you can treat and recover from over-exfoliation, restoring your skin to a healthy condition. Here are some simple ways to heal over-exfoliated skin.
Remove Harsh Ingredients
Board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, MD, advises that the first step is to eliminate potentially irritating active ingredients like retinoids, vitamin C, and hydroxy acids. While these are effective skincare components, they can aggravate over-exfoliated skin by stimulating it further instead of soothing it.
Cease Exfoliating Completely
The next step is to stop exfoliating altogether. "If you’ve over-exfoliated and are dealing with increased dryness and peeling, it may be tempting to scrub away the dryness," says Finney. "However, this will only worsen the issue, so cease all exfoliation, including the use of microbeads and alpha and beta-hydroxy acids."
Allow your skin a break from both physical and chemical exfoliation for a few days to even a couple of weeks, and evaluate its condition. This rest period will also give your skin the chance to heal and replenish. Once it has recovered, you can slowly begin to reintroduce exfoliation.
Use a Cooling Compress
Applying a cool compress several times each day for a week can help reduce skin sensitivity, redness, and pain, promoting healing. One study showed that after a cosmetic laser exfoliation, applying a cool compress for 30 minutes each day during the first week significantly reduced skin irritation.
For optimal results, wet a clean washcloth with cool water, refrigerate it for at least 20 minutes, then apply it to areas of your skin that are red or inflamed. Repeat as needed. Keep the compress cool, not freezing. Since your skin barrier is compromised, ice can be too harsh. If you use ice, ensure it’s wrapped in a cloth and don’t apply it for more than 15 minutes at a time.
Use Soothing Moisturizers
Switch to gentle moisturizers with ingredients like ceramides, niacinamide, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, jojoba oil, and aloe vera. If you don’t have acne-prone skin, Finney recommends using a thicker ointment like Aquaphor to help soothe and hydrate irritated areas of your skin.
"Opt for a mild cleanser (or simply rinse with water!), a rich moisturizing cream, and sunscreen," advises Finney. "Ingredients that are anti-inflammatory, hydrating, or that help restore the skin's barrier are essential."
The best thing for your skin is to simplify your routine and focus on the basics—cleansing, moisturizing, and protecting from the sun. "Using fewer products allows your skin to heal," says Worden.
How to Avoid Over Exfoliation
There are steps you can take in your skincare routine to prevent over exfoliation from occurring. Follow these tips to avoid over-exfoliated skin.
Choose the Right Exfoliator
Take a gradual approach and pay attention to your skin's needs. "Not everyone falls into the classic skin types, so choose an exfoliator that addresses your specific skin concerns," advises Finney.
- Oily or acne-prone skin: Finney suggests opting for an exfoliator containing salicylic acid if your skin is oily or you suffer from frequent breakouts.
- Dry skin: If you have dry skin, look for an exfoliator with hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or ceramides.
- Sensitive skin: For sensitive skin, choose exfoliators with poly-hydroxy acids, a gentler alternative for chemical exfoliation.
Test One Exfoliant at a Time
It may be tempting to use a physical exfoliant like a microbead mask and follow it up with a chemical exfoliant containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). However, combining physical and chemical exfoliants can harm the skin barrier, so it’s better to pick one type. Using AHAs and BHAs together can lead to over-exfoliation.
Try using one exfoliator for a week and observe how your skin responds, then switch to a different type the next week. Opt for the one that gives you the best results without drying or damaging your skin too much.
Modify Exfoliation Frequency
"When incorporating exfoliation into your routine, I usually suggest starting with twice a week," says King. "You can gradually increase the frequency as long as your skin isn't too dry or irritated." People with oily skin can exfoliate three to four times weekly, while those with sensitive skin may only require one session per week.
Aside from your skin type, weather conditions also play a role in exfoliation frequency. "Exfoliation is generally better tolerated in warmer weather, so your routine may vary with the seasons," notes Finney. Ultimately, it's about adjusting to what suits your skin best.
Hydrate and Protect with Sunscreen
Keeping your skin moisturized and hydrated is key to preventing over-exfoliation and irritation. Choose a moisturizer that suits your skin type and contains gentle, non-irritating ingredients. Make moisturizing a habit after washing your face twice daily. Finish with a physical sunscreen of at least SPF 30 to protect your skin from sun exposure and dryness.
When to Consult a Specialist
After eliminating exfoliators from your skincare routine and treating your over-exfoliated skin, you should notice improvements in one to two weeks. If recovery is still slow or not happening, it's a good idea to consult with a dermatologist, healthcare provider, or skin expert. They can evaluate your skin and suggest further treatments if necessary.
