Buzz
Take a moment to inspect your knuckles. Are they a total wreck?
Chances are, they are, especially if you've made the questionable choice to live outside of the sun-drenched tropics. With winter’s brutal, tundra-like chill, your hands are undoubtedly a dry, cracked disaster. For many of us, this results in painful cracks, bleeding, and endless irritation.
There’s no magic cure. (One dermatologist suggested relocating to a hot, humid region, so there’s that option.) But with a bit of patience and a tolerance for some greasy solutions, you can heal those poor, battered knuckles.
But why does this happen in the first place?
Cold air has less moisture, making the environment dry, and in many places, heated indoor air still reigns supreme. Add in everyone’s constant handwashing to dodge the flu (you are washing your hands, right?), and it's almost impossible to avoid skin issues.
“Our hands are one of the most vulnerable spots for developing dry, cracked skin during the winter,” explains Dr. Meghan Feely, a board-certified dermatologist practicing in New York and New Jersey.
On top of how frequently we use them throughout the day, the structure of our skin makes it harder to treat any irritation on our hands.
Dr. Ross Radusky, a board-certified dermatologist with Soho Skin and Laser Dermatology, PC in New York, highlights that the skin on our hands is 30 times thicker than the skin on our eyelids. This thickness naturally blocks lotions, creams, and ointments, as well as protection from the elements.
“It’s just difficult to get the treatment to where it’s needed,” he adds.
The stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis, consists of approximately 20 layers of dead cells, embedded in a matrix of natural oils and fatty acids. It acts as the first line of defense between the external world and our internal systems.
Dr. Dhaval G. Bhanusali, a board-certified dermatologist practicing in New York City and Miami, describes the cell layer as a crosslinked network. In dry and windy conditions, the oil content in this matrix decreases, causing the cells to lose their smooth movement, leading to small tears.
“The skin loses its elasticity,” he explains. “There are tiny breaks in the protective barrier.”
If you reside in a cold climate, experiencing this issue is almost unavoidable. Lucky us.
Managing Humidity
When the weather feels like you're on the icy planet Hoth, it might seem appealing to linger in a hot and steamy shower. However, if you care about your skin, that's definitely a bad idea.
Spending too much time in a hot bath or shower is a recipe for skin damage, warns Feely. ‘Hot water, ironically, sucks the moisture right out of your skin.’
To protect your skin, keep your showers short and lukewarm, even though a long hot one may seem irresistible.
‘Seven minutes tops,’ advises Bhanusali. ‘If the mirror gets fogged up, you’ve already overstayed your welcome.’
Instead of rubbing your skin with a towel, gently pat it dry. Radusky suggests air dryers are okay for drying your hands in public restrooms, but stop right before you’re fully dry.
Both of the experts agree that humidifiers are beneficial for you. Feely recommends keeping the humidity in your home between 30 and 50 percent. Anything higher could lead to mold problems. While drinking water is a healthy habit, it won’t directly impact the condition of your skin.
Creams, Lotions, Ointments, and Even Krazy Glue!
After each time you wash your hands or take a shower, it’s crucial to apply moisturizer immediately. It may feel like a lot to keep up with, but consistency is key. The experts suggest using the thickest creams or ointments that you can tolerate.
"Anything in a pump is simply too watery, and I don’t recommend it for the hands," says Radusky. "Instead, opt for creams that have a lower water content, or ointments that are petrolatum-based. Those offer a nice, greasy texture."
Ah yes. "Nice" and "greasy."
Ideally, we'd all have a thick layer of Vaseline on our hands all day, leaving behind messy little fingerprints all over our TPS reports—who cares about that? But, of course, we have to acknowledge the constraints of reality.
"There’s a distinction between what can be treated practically and what’s ideal," explains Bhanusali. "It’s much more difficult if it's smeared all over your hands."
If you can’t go around with greasy fingers all day, use a rich cream and switch to an ointment before bed. Sure, you might end up staining your bedsheets a little, but this is a battle, and sacrifices are part of the deal.
All three doctors agree that wearing gloves while sleeping is a smart choice. While it may keep your sheets cleaner, the bigger benefit is that it helps the cream or ointment absorb into your skin—Bhanusali notes it can lead to a 30 percent improvement.
Radusky advises against using cotton gloves. They absorb the cream or ointment, preventing it from penetrating your skin. Instead, he suggests wearing nitrile gloves.
Imagine your hands have already cracked open, and creams and ointments are no longer enough. You could opt for a liquid bandage, but why not go a bit extreme? Believe it or not, real doctors actually recommend using Krazy Glue on your skin if it's split open.
"It’s a fun derm hack," Bhanusali says. "I even told my mom about it. She looked at me and asked, ‘We sent you to medical school for this?’"
Your Shopping List
Alright, you’re ready to moisturize. But what should you be looking for?
Feely suggests seeking out fragrance-free, oil-based products that contain ceramides and humectants. "Ceramides are naturally found in the skin’s lipid bilayer and help make the skin waterproof, sealing in moisture," she explains. "Humectants, like alpha-hydroxy acids and glycerin, help draw moisture into the skin."
Radusky suggests looking for products that contain urea, a small amount of salicylic acid, or lactic acid. These ingredients help exfoliate, which can sometimes cause irritation, so it's best to use them only once a week to complement your skincare routine. He recommends CeraVe Renewing SA Cream and AmLactin Ultra Triple Action Alpha Hydroxy Acid Hydrating Body Cream.
Bhanusali also recommends products that include ceramides, particularly CeraVe, as well as Vaseline.
Both Bhanusali and Radusky (along with yours truly) highly recommend Neutrogena’s Norwegian Formula Hand Cream.
You’ll want to keep this on hand. It absorbs quickly—literally, by the time you’ve checked for spinach between your teeth before heading out the door. There's an unscented version too. Grab a large size for your nightstand and a smaller one for your bag, car, or office. It’s rich in glycerin but feels much lighter than Vaseline or other similar products.
“That’s been my go-to since med school,” says Bhanusali. “It’s a must-have in my bag.”
If none of these remedies seem effective, it might be time to consult a dermatologist. You could be dealing with conditions like eczema, contact dermatitis, or an allergic reaction.
