How to Update Your Kitchen Cabinets

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Within your home lies the "heart of the home" -- the kitchen. If you’ve ever hosted a gathering, you know the kitchen is where most of the action happens. Take a moment to assess your kitchen. Are you satisfied with what you see? Did the previous owners leave behind a space lacking in style and taste? Now, focus on your cabinets. Are you reluctant to hide your fine china behind their worn, discolored doors? Have you

Whether you choose to paint or reface, giving your old cabinets a new look is an affordable way to revamp your kitchen. If you’re considering flipping the house for a profit, resurfacing offers the best return on your efforts. Refacing cabinets costs much less than replacing them with new ones, and it’s something you can accomplish in a weekend. Painting is even more budget-friendly and easier, and you may even finish the project in a single day’s work.

In this guide, we’ll help you determine if resurfacing is right for you, and then walk you through the process of refacing and painting your cabinets.

Planning and Preparation: Steps 1-3

If your cabinets are structurally sound and the layout works for you, refacing is an excellent option. Older cabinets, especially those made before the 1980s, are often crafted better than what you might find at a modern home improvement store. With a little DIY effort, they can look as good as new.

So, what exactly does refacing involve? Simple: refacing is the process of replacing doors, drawer fronts, and hardware, while covering the cabinet sides and framework with veneer or plywood. The result is a fresh, updated look for your cabinets at about half the cost. Plus, you avoid the hassle of completely tearing out and replacing your cabinets. If that sounds appealing, let’s get started:

Step one: Research your options. Begin by browsing the Internet to find numerous companies offering refacing materials. There’s a wide selection available, so you’re sure to find cabinet doors that match your style. Big-box home-improvement stores also offer these items as special orders since they carry too many styles to keep in stock. During your research, decide whether you’d prefer plywood or self-adhesive covering (SAC) for the cabinet panels and frames. Plywood is sold in precut pieces and is glued onto the exposed cabinet sides, while SAC is a thin sheet of wood or laminate that’s peeled and applied to the front of the frame.

Step two: Measure your cabinets. After you’ve done your research and chosen your materials, accurate measurements are crucial for ordering the right supplies. Draw a rough sketch of your cabinet layout, labeling the different sections for organization. Measure the cabinet doors and drawer fronts with a tape measure and note the lengths and widths on your diagram.

Step three: Remove doors, drawer fronts and hardware. Using a screwdriver, take off the cabinet doors, drawer fronts, hinges, and hardware. If you plan to reuse them, save the screws and parts for later. Then, lightly hand-sand all surfaces of the cabinet box and end panels. Use 150-grit sandpaper—avoid power sanders, as they can cause damage. The goal is just to scuff the surface for better adhesion of the plywood or SAC. After sanding, clean the surface with a tack cloth and then wash everything with warm, soapy water. Tack cloth is a sticky gauze used to remove sanding dust and is available at hardware stores.

In the next section, we’ll dive into the next phase of your refacing project.

Refacing and Installing Hardware: Steps 4-7

Once your materials arrive, the next step in the refacing process begins. If you’ve measured everything correctly, the work ahead will be much smoother.

Step four: Begin with the end panels. Apply high-quality wood glue in a zigzag “S” pattern on the back of the panel, about one inch from the edge. Align it properly, press firmly on all corners, and then the center. Wipe away any excess glue immediately, then secure the panel with finishing nails. These small nails can be found at your local hardware store. Place one in each corner and then about every 8 inches down the sides.

Step five: Apply veneer. The next stage involves applying the SAC to the fronts of the cabinet boxes. Use sharp scissors or a utility knife to cut strips of veneer that are half an inch wider and two inches longer than the stiles and rails you plan to cover. Peel the backing off the strip's top and align it evenly before pressing it down. Then, peel the rest of the backing while smoothing the veneer onto the cabinet frame. After securing the pieces in place, trim any excess from the rails and stiles. Use a utility knife and straight edge for precise cuts. It’s essential to complete one cabinet at a time. Smooth the edges of the trimmed veneer with 150-grit sandpaper. Finish by applying pressure from the top down with a Plexiglas scraper to secure the SAC.

There’s also an iron-on version of the veneer. The application is similar to the SAC method, except you iron it onto the cabinet’s front rather than using adhesive to press it. After ironing on the veneer, trim and sand it just as described earlier.

Step six: Replace the hardware. If you’re reusing the same hardware, simply reattach it using the existing holes. If you want to upgrade to new hardware, bring one of the old pieces to the store to compare sizes. While it’s not necessary to buy the exact same size, doing so will prevent you from having to patch up old screw holes. If you can’t find suitable hardware in the same size, fill the old holes with wood putty and drill new ones to fit the new hardware.

The final step is attaching the door and drawer fronts. Be sure to follow the included instructions carefully. Never reuse the old hinge holes underneath the new veneer, as they may become loose and cause the veneer to peel. Ideally, the hinges should be positioned 2 inches from both the top and bottom of the doors. If installing new hinges, try to position them close to this measurement while avoiding the previous holes.

The next step involves redoing the doors and drawers. There are numerous options here. You can reface the cabinet doors and drawer fronts to match the veneered base, or you can get creative. Consider using plastic, Plexiglas, tile, or glass to enhance their appearance. If time is short and you have the budget, you can also opt to purchase pre-made doors and cabinets.

Once you’ve reattached your doors and drawer fronts, and installed the hardware, step back and admire your kitchen cabinets that now have a fresh, new look. Take a moment to appreciate the work you've done yourself, all while saving a significant amount of money.

In the following section, we’ll explore whether painting your cabinets could be a viable option for resurfacing.

Painting Your Cabinets

Painting your cabinets is a more affordable option than DIY refacing, making it a great choice if you’re on a budget. Some people also prefer the appearance of painted cabinets over natural wood. As with refacing, the key to a successful paint job lies in thorough preparation.

Step one: Clean the surface. To paint over dirty kitchen cabinets, start by thoroughly cleaning the surfaces. Remove the doors, drawers, and hardware to make the job easier. Purchase trisodium phosphate (TSP) cleaner from a hardware store, and be sure to follow all safety instructions on the label. This cleaner will help you eliminate grease and grime buildup on the cabinets. After cleaning, rinse the cabinets with clean water using a sponge to remove any remaining residue.

Step two: Sand the surface. Gently sand the entire surface with 150-grit sandpaper. Once you’re done sanding, use a tack cloth to wipe off the dust and then clean the surface with a damp sponge.

Step three: Apply a primer coat. If your cabinets are unpainted, a primer coat is necessary. Primer, typically white, helps the paint adhere better. If you’re painting the cabinets a darker color, such as red, choose a primer that’s a lighter shade of the paint color. If your cabinets are already painted and you’re using a similar color, you can skip the primer and move straight to painting. Oil-based paints generally require an oil-based primer, while latex paints pair well with latex primer. Use a synthetic fiber brush for latex primer and a natural bristle brush for oil-based primer.

Step four: Paint away. When purchasing your paint, don’t opt for the cheapest option – the quality will reflect the price. Latex paints dry faster and are easier to clean up, while oil-based paints offer a tougher, smoother finish. There are also special paints designed to withstand the wear and tear of kitchens or bathrooms. Glossy finishes are easier to clean and tend to be more durable than matte finishes. Ultimately, this decision depends on your personal preferences.

The quality of your brush is just as important as the paint itself. A high-quality brush may cost more, but it’s definitely worth the investment. Avoid foam applicators and rollers for the best results. A 2.5- or 3-inch brush will give you the smoothest final coat. You will need at least two coats of paint, possibly three, depending on how the second coat looks.

Once the second coat has completely dried, carefully reattach all the hardware, followed by the drawer and cabinet fronts, and you're finished. For more home renovation tips, make sure to wash off any paint from your fingers and continue to the next page.