Buzz
If you’ve recently acquired jewelry from a family member or stumbled upon what seems like a steal at a flea market or estate sale, you might wonder if it’s genuine or costume jewelry. While consulting a jeweler, appraiser, or pawn shop is an option, there are also several DIY methods to help you assess whether your pieces hold real value.
Having spent years in a jewelry store, I gained insights from certified gemologists and seasoned jewelers. To confirm these methods are still reliable, I consulted other professionals who provided additional advice on distinguishing solid gold or silver pieces and authenticating diamonds and gemstones. Below are some effective strategies to differentiate between costume and genuine jewelry.
Determining if Jewelry is Made of Real Gold or Silver
To determine if your jewelry is costume, gold- or silver-plated, or made of solid gold or silver, there are several key indicators to consider. Here’s how to begin your evaluation:
Check for stamped markings
In the U.S., the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) mandates that all gold, silver, and platinum jewelry be stamped to indicate its purity. This regulation dates back to the 1906 National Gold and Silver Marking Act, meaning any jewelry made in the U.S. since then should bear these marks. However, pieces from outside the U.S. or made before 1906 might lack such markings.
According to Jonathan Goldberg, founder and CEO of Kimberfire, a jewelry manufacturer, you should search for tiny stamped letters or numbers in discreet areas of the jewelry. Common locations include:
Rings: Inside the band
Necklaces and bracelets: On the clasp or connecting rings
Earrings: On the posts or backings
The markings on jewelry typically indicate the karat value or a numerical code based on the millesimal fineness system, which quantifies the purity of gold, silver, and platinum alloys in parts per thousand. For instance, a piece containing 75% gold would be marked as 750. Below are the most common markings, as provided by Meserlian:
10k: 10 karat yellow gold
14k, 583, or 585: 14 karat yellow or white gold
18k or 750: 18 karat yellow or white gold
24k or 999: 24 karat yellow gold
GF: Gold filled (i.e. gold plated and not solid gold)
GFP: Rolled gold plate (i.e. gold plated and not solid gold)
925: Sterling silver
PT or 950: Platinum
Ti: Titanium
These markings are often tiny, so a magnifying glass might be necessary to read them, advises Barkev Meserlian, CEO of Barkev’s and a seasoned professional with 46 years in the jewelry industry.
However, Matt Harris—who manages a pearl design business, a jewelry consignment shop in Austin named Curated Fine Jewelry, and has training from the Gemological Institute of America with a focus on pearls—warns against relying solely on stamps. “Counterfeit gold or silver pieces might also bear fake stamps to deceive buyers,” he explains. Therefore, it’s wise to conduct additional tests, such as those outlined below.
Test with a magnet
Test the jewelry by holding a magnet near the metal. “Pure gold and silver are non-magnetic,” explains Meserlian. “If the piece is attracted to the magnet, it’s likely gold-plated or silver-plated with a magnetic base.”
Platinum jewelry is more complex because it’s seldom made from pure platinum. It’s usually alloyed with metals like palladium, ruthenium, rhodium, iridium, osmium, or non-precious metals such as copper or cobalt, as noted by the FTC. Therefore, if a piece you believe to be platinum is magnetic, it doesn’t automatically mean it’s fake.
Analyze the color
If you have a silver-colored piece but are unsure whether it’s silver, white gold, platinum, or titanium, Meserlian suggests examining the color closely:
Silver: Has a warmer hue
White gold: Slightly yellowish tint
Platinum: Brightest and whitest
Titanium: Darker and more subdued
Check for signs of tarnishing
Tarnishing can also serve as a useful indicator for identifying or distinguishing between different metals. Here’s what Meserlian and Goldberg recommend observing:
Solid silver: Gradually oxidizes over time, developing a black tarnish layer that can be polished away
Silver-plated items: May reveal streaks or uneven patches of the base metal when cleaned
Solid gold (yellow or white): Does not tarnish
Gold-plated items: May fade or discolor over time, especially in areas that frequently contact skin
Platinum: Highly resistant to tarnishing
Titanium: Also resistant to tarnishing
Assess wear and tear
Inspect the jewelry for any signs of wear. “Plated jewelry often reveals mismatched metals once the outer layer is scratched or worn away,” Meserlian notes. On the other hand, costume jewelry is prone to scratches, while durable metals like gold and platinum are more resistant to surface damage, Goldberg adds.
Assess the weight
Meserlian explains that solid gold or silver jewelry is noticeably heavier than plated pieces, which are often lighter due to their hollow structure and base metal core. Platinum is the heaviest among these metals, while aluminum is much lighter. Silver and white gold fall somewhere in between, with white gold being slightly denser due to its composition.
The ceramic scratch test for gold
To determine if a piece is genuine gold, lightly scratch it on an unglazed ceramic tile. Meserlian notes that real gold will leave a golden streak, whereas gold-plated items will leave a darker mark.
How to identify real pearls, diamonds, and gemstones
After evaluating the metal, the next step is to verify the authenticity of any pearls, diamonds, or gemstones on the jewelry.
The tooth test for pearls
A quick method to check if a pearl is genuine is to lightly rub it against the edge of your tooth. If it feels gritty, Harris explains, it’s probably real.
If you’re hesitant to place someone’s pearls in your mouth, Harris suggests an alternative: “Rubbing two pearls together produces a similar gritty sensation.”
Assessing the size and weight of pearls
Harris notes that if you encounter pearls that are unusually lightweight or excessively large, they are likely not genuine.
Identifying the brand of pearls
Look for a brand stamp on your pearls. “Many well-known costume jewelry brands avoided using precious metals or gemstones, so a brand stamp can be a clear indicator,” Harris explains.
The fog test for diamonds
Exhale onto the stone. “A real diamond will clear up almost instantly as it disperses heat rapidly,” Goldberg states. In contrast, cubic zirconia will remain foggy for a longer period.
Observe the sparkle
To distinguish between diamonds, moissanite, and cubic zirconia, Ty Wilson, Co-Founder of CustomMade, an online jeweler specializing in custom engagement rings, recommends examining the stone under sunlight or bright light to evaluate its brilliance.
Moissanite emits vibrant, rainbow-like sparkles, while cubic zirconia appears less dazzling compared to diamonds. Additionally, cubic zirconia is less scratch-resistant than diamonds, making it more prone to visible wear over time, he explains.
Natural vs. lab-grown diamonds
While natural and lab-grown diamonds are chemically identical, Wilson notes a potential way to differentiate them. Use a magnifying glass to search for a laser inscription on the stone’s girdle (the narrow edge around the stone). “These inscriptions are tiny and only found on some certified diamonds,” he says. “You can reference the grading report using the inscription.” Lab-grown diamonds often have inscriptions starting with LG, whereas natural diamonds typically feature numerical inscriptions.
Check for air bubbles in colored gemstones
Identifying genuine rubies, emeralds, and sapphires without professional tools can be challenging. However, Goldberg advises looking for visible air bubbles inside the stone, as these can indicate it’s synthetic.
Costume jewelry can still be stunning and valuable
While costume jewelry isn’t made from precious metals or gemstones, it can still hold significant worth. If you’ve inherited jewelry, it’s likely that some pieces are costume jewelry, which Harris notes was highly popular in the mid-20th century. “Millions of these pieces exist, many of which are exquisitely designed and crafted,” he adds.
There’s no harm in wearing imitation jewelry. In fact, Chanel became renowned for its intricately designed faux pearl creations, Harris points out. “The issue arises when sellers misrepresent imitation pieces as genuine. As a savvy consumer, learning to distinguish between the two is an invaluable skill.”
