Interior Painting

Painting the interior of your home delivers great value for your renovation investment. A simple paint job can drastically alter the look and ambiance of a room. Whether updating trim or shifting the main color scheme, the effect of paint is both immediate and impactful.

The links below will direct you to articles that cover everything you need to know about painting interiors. Whether you’re tackling kitchen cabinets or learning how to paint shutters, these resources provide step-by-step guides.

Here’s an overview of the topics these articles will explore:

Wall Painting

Walls take up the most space in your home, so it's important to know how to paint them properly and cleanly.

Ceiling and Hard-to-Reach Areas Painting

Painting Trim, Baseboards, and Wainscoting

The edges of a room serve as its frame. Learn the techniques to perfect this delicate and important painting task.

Window Painting

Painting windows takes a bit more precision, so be sure to check out this article for all the details.

Door Painting

A door is the entrance to a room. Discover how to elevate this important feature with a fresh coat of paint.

Shutter Painting

Shutters can be tricky to paint. Learn how to evenly and smoothly cover every side.

Kitchen Cabinet Painting

Meals taste better in a well-designed kitchen. Let us guide you on how to add a touch of color and style to this space with paint.

Floor Painting

Though you may not always focus on the floor, a fresh coat of paint can create a bold statement in any room. Discover how to use paint to make your floors stand out.

Textured Painting

Looking to add a weathered or stucco effect indoors? Enhance your walls and surfaces with textured finishes for a fresh, character-filled look.

Striped Painting

Stripes bring dynamic energy and are simple to create. This guide will show you how to paint stripes on any interior surface.

Stencil Painting

Stencils are one of the oldest decorating techniques, and they're simple to design and apply. Follow the steps outlined in this article to get started.

Post-Painting Cleanup

Finished painting? Almost. Proper cleanup ensures your home stays pristine and prevents any mishaps that could undo your hard work. Discover what’s involved in this essential step.

Cleaning Your Painting Tools

The sooner you clean your tools, the less time it will take. Follow these straightforward steps to make cleanup quick and easy.

For further details on painting and home improvement in general, explore the following:

Wall Painting

Your home's interior is more than just four walls, but walls are often the most prominent and common surfaces you’ll work with during home improvements. A fresh coat of paint on one or more walls can make a dramatic change in any room's look and feel.

Complete an entire wall before taking a break to prevent the painted areas from drying with uneven edges. Step back, review the wall, and touch up any missed spots or streaks. Whether you prefer to work in sections from top to bottom or side to side is your choice. However, if you're using a roller with an extension handle, you might find it easier to start at a high corner and make continuous zigzag motions across the room. This way, you won't need to adjust the handle constantly, as you would if painting in sections from ceiling to floor. If you're right-handed, begin in the left-hand corner; if left-handed, start in the right-hand corner.

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Ceiling Painting and Hard-to-Reach Areas

While painting the walls of a room may seem like the most significant task, don't forget to pay attention to other areas like the ceilings. The following tips will guide you through painting ceilings and tackling those hard-to-reach spots.

Ceilings

When painting a ceiling, ensure that you maintain a wet edge throughout to prevent unsightly lines and ridges. If you're using quick-drying paint, you may need to work at a faster pace than expected, without taking breaks. To make the job easier, use an extension handle so you can paint from the floor, avoiding the hassle of moving a step ladder around. Many roller handles accept a screw-in extension, available at your local paint store, but a broom or mop handle with a threaded end might work as well.

Tight Spots

In areas too narrow for the zigzag method (see Painting Walls), such as around windows and above doors, simply roll the paint on horizontally. For tighter spaces where a standard 7- or 9-inch roller won't fit, opt for a 4-inch roller or a paintbrush. The small roller will match the texture of the rest of the wall, while a brush may leave uneven coverage and streaks.

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Painting Trim, Baseboards, and Wainscoting

Painters, even the most experienced ones, often disagree on whether to paint woodwork—such as trim, baseboards, and wainscoting—before or after the walls. The choice is ultimately up to personal preference. If you paint the woodwork first, any stray splashes or drips on the wall can simply be blended in since the walls will be repainted anyway. Tackling the detailed work first also gives you a sense of progress, allowing you to breeze through the larger areas later. However, keep in mind that rollers tend to release fine paint mist that can splatter onto the woodwork, no matter how careful you are.

Whether you opt to paint the woodwork first or last, always inspect it for any defects and make necessary repairs before painting. If you're painting over previously glossy wood, lightly sand it with sandpaper or steel wool to improve adhesion. Alternatively, you can use a deglosser to prepare the surface.

Painting Trim

When using a single color and finish throughout, you might opt to paint the trim as you go along with painting the walls. This approach requires alternating between a brush and a roller, but it shouldn't be challenging in rooms with just a few windows and one door. However, if you prefer painting the trim first, protect it with masking or painter's tape before tackling the ceiling and walls.

Painting Baseboards

To paint the top edge of a baseboard, start with five or six short strokes downward, then smooth them out with one long, even stroke. Use a painting shield or a thin piece of cardboard to mask the floor as you cut in along it. Next, fill in the remaining unpainted space using long brush strokes. Work in sections of 2 or 3 feet at a time, and be sure to check for drips, spatters, or overlapping edges, cleaning them up immediately to prevent setting.

Painting Wainscoting

Painting wainscoting or paneling is similar to painting baseboards. Start by cutting in along the top and bottom edges where the wainscoting meets the wall and the floor, just like you did with the baseboard. Next, paint the indented panels and the molding around them. Since paint tends to gather in the corners of these panels, your brush strokes should move toward the center. For the raised surfaces between and around the panels, begin from the top and work your way down, using vertical up-and-down strokes and horizontal back-and-forth strokes.

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Painting Windows

For quicker window painting, consider using a 2- or 2.5-inch sash trim brush with an angled bottom. This allows for easier access to tight 90-degree corners and narrow spaces.

When painting wood-frame windows, begin by raising the bottom sash well past halfway, and lower the top sash so its bottom rail is several inches below the bottom sash. Start by painting the bottom rail of the top sash and work upwards along the stiles. Cover all surfaces of the bottom sash except its top edge. Reverse the sashes: raise the top sash to within an inch of the window frame, and lower the bottom sash just above the windowsill. Then, paint the previously obstructed surfaces of the top sash and the top edges of both sashes.

Don't paint the wood jambs just yet, where the sashes slide. Instead, focus on painting the window frame, moving from top to bottom, and include the sill. Once the paint on the sashes has dried to the touch, lower them both as much as possible to paint the exposed jambs. Let this paint dry, then raise both sashes fully to paint the lower jambs. To prevent the sashes from sticking, apply just enough paint to cover the existing coat. After it dries, lubricate the channels with paraffin or a silicone spray.

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Door Painting

Flush doors with flat, smooth surfaces are simple to paint with a brush or roller, but doors with inset panels present more of a challenge. Regardless of the type of door, it's important to paint the entire surface in one go to avoid visible lap marks. Be sure to remove the doorknobs, the plates behind them, and the latch plate on the door's edge before starting.

For ornate doors, start by painting the inset panels at the top. As with wainscoting, paint all the panels and the molding surrounding them. Then move downwards, painting the top, middle, and bottom rails (the horizontal parts) using back-and-forth strokes.

Next, paint the vertical stiles (the door's sides) with up-and-down strokes. If you're painting both sides, repeat this process. If only one side is being painted, be sure to apply a light coat to the top edge, as paint can accumulate over time, causing the door to stick. Finally, paint the hinge and latch edges of the door.

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Shutter Painting

The most effective method for painting shutters, whether interior or exterior, is to spray them using canned spray paint or an airless power sprayer. However, if spraying isn’t an option, you can still achieve a great finish with a brush.

First, remove the shutters and give them a thorough scraping, sanding, and cleaning as needed. If possible, hang them from an open ceiling joist (like in your garage) so you can paint both sides at once. If that’s not feasible, you can stand them up or lay them flat on the floor to paint one side at a time.

To avoid runs and drips, keep your brush relatively dry. A brush that is too wet can cause problems, especially if the louvers are adjustable, as it may lead to sticking. Start by painting the window side of the shutter first. This way, any missed runs won't be visible.

For adjustable shutters, insert a small wood wedge or a matchstick between the adjusting rod and the staples to keep the rod away from the louvers. Begin by painting the louvers with a 1/2- or 1-inch trim brush, then proceed with the frame using a 2-inch brush. Save the edges for last, allowing you to check for runs by flipping the shutter. If you notice any, smooth them out with a nearly dry brush before they set. Once the front dries, paint the back.

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Painting Kitchen Cabinets

When planning a kitchen makeover, you might be tempted to tear out all the cabinetry and start anew. However, this might not be necessary. A simple coat of paint on the cabinets can dramatically refresh the look of your kitchen, breathing new life into an outdated space.

For an easier time painting cabinets and cupboards, make sure to remove any obstructions first, such as shelves, drawers, handles, pulls, knobs, and latches. If the door hinges have removable pins, take the doors off to paint the cabinet and cupboard interiors and surfaces more easily.

The trickiest part of painting cabinets is reaching the hard-to-access interior surfaces. Consider shortening the handles on your trim brushes to make this task simpler. Start by painting the back walls, top, side walls, and the bottoms, tops, and edges of the shelves.

Next, move on to the exterior surfaces, starting from the top and working down. If the doors are still attached, swing them open to paint the inside surfaces, then close them partway to paint the outside. For the drawers, place them upright on newspapers and paint only the front surfaces—do not paint the sides or bottoms.

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Painting Floors

Once a feature reserved for porches, painting wooden floors is becoming more common, especially in vacation homes. You can easily complete a small floor in just a couple of hours once you've prepared everything.

The process for painting floors is similar to that of painting any large, flat surface. Start by removing all wax and lightly sanding the floor to roughen the surface, which will help the paint adhere better. You can use regular porch and deck paint, though your color options might be limited. Alternatively, a high-quality oil-based enamel will work well. Finish with two to four coats of clear polyurethane to protect the painted finish.

Begin by clearing the area of all furniture, then use a brush to carefully cut in the paint along the baseboards. For the rest of the floor, you can either use a wide wall brush or a medium-pile roller. By adding an extension handle to the roller, you can complete the task while standing. Make sure to paint your way out of the room. For most wood floors, plan to apply at least two coats of paint, followed by two to four layers of polyurethane. Allow each coat to dry completely before entering the room again, and wear rubber-soled shoes until the last coat is fully set to prevent damage.

Painting masonry floors is generally easier, quicker, more affordable, and more common than painting wood floors. However, moisture is a major challenge when painting masonry. Most masonry surfaces are porous, and water seeping through can push against the paint, causing it to peel. Additionally, the alkalinity in masonry can interfere with the adhesion of some paints and degrade pigments in others. Masonry-specific paints are designed to withstand these issues and handle rough surfaces.

Various latex-based masonry paints offer the advantages of easy application and cleanup, and they can be applied in damp conditions without adhesion issues. Cement-based paints are often chosen for previously unpainted concrete, especially where moisture is a concern. Epoxy paints are ideal for situations where a durable finish is needed to resist both moisture and chemicals. Be sure to choose a paint that is compatible with any existing coatings and the type of masonry you're working with. A paint expert can help you select the right product.

Before starting your painting project, repair and patch any cracks and holes, allowing the patched areas to cure properly. Then, with rubber gloves and goggles, apply a 10 percent muriatic acid solution to remove efflorescence, the white powder that forms on concrete. After mopping up the solution, let the area dry, rinse it thoroughly, and allow it to dry once more. Clean the entire floor using a strong detergent or a concrete degreaser. Once the floor is dry and just before painting, vacuum it to eliminate any remaining dust.

For most masonry floors, you can use a long-nap roller with an extension handle to paint while standing. However, a brush may be required for particularly rough spots. Depending on the condition of the surface and the type of paint you're using, a second coat might be necessary. Always refer to the paint can label to check the recommended drying time between coats.

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Painting Textures

What do you do if your wall has imperfections so severe that regular paint won't hide them? Or if you're seeking a more textured finish, or perhaps a weathered or stucco-like appearance? For any of these situations, texture painting is the perfect solution.

Texture-specific paints are thick, much like pancake batter or wet plaster. Some of these paints are gritty, while others are not. All are perfect for concealing imperfections and for achieving a rustic finish. While you should wash the surface, remove any peeling paint, and repair any large holes, achieving a perfectly smooth surface is unnecessary. Texture paints will hide most surface flaws.

For smooth texture paints without granules, you can use special texturing rollers, wide brushes, urethane foam brushes, or even a trowel. Regardless of the tool you choose, spread the paint onto the surface, ensuring it's about 1/16 inch thick. As with standard wall paint, work in sections roughly three feet by three feet.

Create your design in individual sections. A long-napped texturing roller will provide a consistent stippled texture throughout. Alternatively, a foam brush can give you a more irregular stipple. After applying the paint, use the flat side of the brush to gently pat the paint, forming small peaks and valleys on the surface.

For added creativity, you can use unconventional tools such as crumpled wax paper or a large sponge once the paint is applied. A coarse brush allows you to create swirling or circular patterns. Make sure to maintain consistent thickness and texture throughout each section, overlapping the edges as you work.

When applying gritty-textured paint to ceilings, opt for a special long-napped roller or a synthetic-bristle brush. Follow the instructions on the paint can for detailed application guidance.

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Painting Stripes

You can easily create stripes on walls or furniture using simple methods. For medium-width stripes of one to four inches, first draw two parallel lines on the wall with a level. Then, tape along the lines with masking tape, pressing it down with your thumb or a spoon's bowl to ensure no paint leaks underneath. Paint between the tape lines using a trim brush. Once the paint is just dry to the touch, carefully peel the tape off.

To paint thin, parallel stripes all at once, use specialized striping tape, the kind used for racing stripes on cars, available at automotive supply stores. The tape measures one inch wide but contains up to eight 1/16-inch peel-off strips. Start by drawing a straight line with a level. Then, apply the striping tape along the line. Peel off as many of the removable strips as needed to reveal your stripes.

Since there are more tape edges to deal with this time, go over the tape once more, making sure to press all the edges down securely to prevent paint from seeping underneath. Then, with a dry brush, go over the tape line. (A 1/2-inch trim brush works best for this detailed task.) Allow the paint to dry until it is touch-dry, and then carefully peel off the tape.

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Painting Stencils

Stenciling, one of the oldest and simplest methods of decorative painting, is perfect for creating borders with various patterns on walls, ceilings, floors, and around windows and doors. Stencils resemble the reverse of a coloring book image, with open spaces where the design would normally appear. These reusable stencils, typically the size of a typewriter page, are made from thin plastic or sturdy paper. They can be found at art supply stores or retail paint outlets.

You can also create your own stencils. Take thin cardboard, such as shirt cardboard, and sketch a design. Transfer the design to tracing paper, then carefully cut it out using scissors or a craft knife. Place the pattern on a piece of cardboard slightly larger than the design, trace around it, and then cut it out.

To transfer your design to the wall, secure the stencil in place with tape at all four corners. Use a special stenciling brush, typically round but with flat bristles, to apply latex or alkyd paint to the cutout. Pour paint into a saucer or pie tin, lightly dab the brush into the paint, then dab it onto kraft paper to remove any excess. Your brush should be almost dry. Avoid stroking the paint onto the stencil to prevent it from seeping under the edges. Instead, use a gentle up-and-down dabbing motion. Allow the paint to dry to the touch before carefully peeling the stencil away and moving to the next area.

If you plan to repeat the same pattern as a border, consider making or purchasing additional stencils to continue working on other areas while the paint dries on the first. When using multiple colors in a stencil, paint one color at a time, allowing the first to dry completely before applying the second.

Plastic stencils are washable and reusable, making them a durable choice. However, stencils made from heavy paper or cardboard will eventually wear out as the paint saturates the fibers, causing the stencil to weaken. When this happens, simply replace the stencil with a new one to keep it flat against the wall while painting.

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Painting Cleanup

One of the key elements to a successful paint job is maintaining cleanliness throughout the process. Make sure to clean your tools as soon as you're done using them, and address any spills or drips immediately. Here are some practical tips for keeping your workspace tidy while you paint.

Minimizing Drips and Spatters

Even if you've already done the cutting in around the room, avoid allowing the roller to touch the walls while painting the ceiling or the ceiling while painting the walls, even if the color of paint is the same on both surfaces. The roller might leave a visible ridge of paint each time it makes contact with either the ceiling or the wall.

Regardless of how slowly and carefully you roll across the surface, some fine mist of paint will inevitably be emitted. Protect yourself by wearing a scarf or a cap (you can find affordable painter's caps at paint stores), and make sure to cover the floor and furniture with drop cloths. Canvas cloths are ideal as they are durable, washable, and reusable. However, plastic drop cloths are more economical and can be just as effective when taped down to prevent slipping.

If you decide against masking windows, doors, and trim, reduce the risk of splatters by using a paint shield, which can either be purchased or made yourself. Pre-made shields come in different sizes and materials such as plastic or aluminum, while homemade shields can be crafted from thin cardboard or even old Venetian blind slats. The shield acts as a movable masker: hold it with one hand perpendicular to the surface being painted while you apply paint with your other hand. Paint shields are especially useful for painting window frames, as they protect the glass from splashes, saving you from the hassle of scraping off dried paint later.

Since spills and spatters are bound to happen, keep a damp sponge and a bucket of water nearby when working with latex paints. If you're using solvent-thinned paint, make sure to have some paint thinner and a supply of rags on hand to clean up any splatters or drips before they dry into bumps.

Cleaning Windowpanes, Spatters, and Drips

The ideal time to clean up paint drips and spatters is when they are still wet, as they can be wiped away easily. However, if you miss cleaning them right away, you can still remove them later with a little more effort.

If you used masking tape around the windows, remove it immediately after painting to prevent pulling off any paint. If you painted using a shield or freehand, there might be some stray drops or smudges on the glass. A razor blade scraper, which can be found at paint or hardware stores, will easily remove the paint from the glass. Be careful not to disrupt the seal between the new paint and the windowpane when cleaning around the sash edges.

Cleaning drips and spatters from most surfaces is generally quick and easy. For latex paint, a soft cloth with household detergent and warm water should work well. However, avoid scrubbing freshly painted surfaces, even if they feel dry, since many paints require up to 30 days or more to fully cure. For solvent-based paints, use a soft cloth with turpentine or mineral spirits to dissolve the dried paint droplets, then follow up with warm water and detergent.

To remove paint drips from hardwood, ceramic tile, or resilient flooring, wrap a cloth around a putty knife and carefully scrape them off. Then clean the area with warm, soapy water. Avoid using solvent unless necessary, as it may damage the floor's finish.

Check the next page for more tips on how to clean your painting tools.

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Cleaning Painting Equipment

Cleaning your painting equipment isn't just about brushes and rollers—it's also about drop cloths, paint cans, containers, and roller trays. Don't procrastinate when it comes to cleaning your tools. It's much easier to clean off fresh paint from brushes, rollers, and trays; let it dry, and you'll face a much tougher cleanup process.

Cheap roller covers often resist thorough cleaning. Some paint will inevitably remain embedded in the nap of the roller, which can soften and create streaks when exposed to fresh paint. If you're using low-cost roller covers, it's best to replace them after each job rather than waste time trying to clean them. For a more durable option, professional-grade roller covers clean up well and can be reused multiple times.

For latex paint, remove excess paint from brushes by dragging them along the rim of the paint can. Then rinse the brushes and rollers under warm tap water, using dish soap to wash them. A paintbrush comb is useful for removing any leftover paint from the bristles. To get rid of excess water, gently squeeze the bristles or give the brush a few firm flicks outdoors. Squeeze the water out of roller covers and use paper towels to absorb any remaining moisture from both the brushes and rollers.

For solvent-based paints, use the recommended solvent listed on the paint can. Swirl the brushes and rollers in the solvent to break down the paint. Repeat the process until no more paint comes off. To clean brushes, pour the solvent into an old coffee can; for rollers, use a disposable aluminum loaf pan or a clean roller pan. Since solvents are flammable and hazardous, make sure you're working in a well-ventilated area, away from heat sources like water heaters or furnaces. Once done, blot the brushes and rollers with paper towels, then wash them with warm, soapy water. Hang brushes to dry and set roller covers upright.

After cleaning, wipe down roller pans and paint containers. Clean the paint can rims and secure the lids tightly to preserve leftover paint. Store paint and solvent cans in a cool, dry place, away from children and extreme temperatures. If you have less than a quart of paint left, transfer it to a tightly sealed glass jar for easy touch-ups. Brushes and rollers should be wrapped up once cleaned and dried—brushes can go back into their original packaging or be wrapped in foil, while rollers can be wrapped in kraft paper, foil, or a perforated plastic sandwich bag.

To clean heavy-duty plastic or canvas drop cloths, first remove large paint splashes with soap, water, and paper towels. Avoid using solvent, as it could cause the drop cloths to deteriorate. Once cleaned, let them dry completely, then fold them up and store with your other painting supplies, ready for the next project.

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