Buzz
Paula Begoun, a renowned beauty expert, author, and publisher, has conducted in-depth research into the cosmetics industry. She has encountered everything from exaggerated anti-aging claims to so-called miracle supplements that fall short of their promises.
Paula has been featured on numerous syndicated TV shows and authored two influential books: Don't Go to the Cosmetic Counter Without Me (now in its sixth edition from Beginning Press) and The Beauty Bible (also from Beginning Press, currently in its second edition). Additionally, she wrote Blue Eye Shadow Should Be Illegal (Beginning Press), a title that resonates with many.
We invited Paula to discuss her insights on common beauty myths and misconceptions.
Q: What inspired you to uncover the truth behind beauty products?
A: Taking on the cosmetics industry is a fascinating endeavor. It involves offering critical insights and sharing information that cosmetic companies and fashion magazines have no incentive to disclose. Whether it's dermatology, plastic surgery, or cosmetics, there's a noticeable lack of critical analysis. Dermatologists and plastic surgeons rarely critique their own practices, and fashion magazines and cosmetic companies certainly don't critique the industry. As a result, consumers are bombarded with claims about the latest and greatest products, often losing sight of the bigger picture.
Q: What in your background qualifies you to write about cosmetics?
A: I studied science in college, but I also worked as a makeup artist and aesthetician for several years and even owned my own cosmetic stores. In the late '70s and '80s, I began questioning industry claims, like the idea that astringents could close pores or that wrinkle creams could eliminate wrinkles. If these claims were true, we wouldn't need new products every year. Later, I became a beauty reporter for KIRO-TV, which led me to write my first book, Blue Eye Shadow Should Be Illegal (Beginning Press), in 1984. The book's success inspired me to continue researching and writing about the cosmetics industry. Over the past two decades, I've interviewed cosmetic chemists, dermatologists, and oncologists, read countless studies, and even taken chemistry classes to stay informed. My approach is similar to that of a reporter: I gather information from various sources and analyze it to form well-founded opinions.
Q: In your book, you suggest it's okay to squeeze blemishes. Isn't that harmful advice?
A: Dermatologists and aestheticians often extract blemishes because it reduces swelling and removes the material causing the inflammation. However, the key is to do it gently to avoid damaging the skin. The cystic sac around the blemish can make it feel like there's more to extract, but excessive squeezing can worsen the situation. After extraction, it's crucial to disinfect the area with products containing benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. Many over-the-counter products include these ingredients. Additionally, gentle cleansing is essential—scrubbing can lead to scabs, which may result in scarring.
Q: Next, we invited Paula to engage in a word association exercise. Below, she shares her insights on the following products:
A: The Product: Moisturizers
The Truth: Many believe moisturizers can eliminate wrinkles and that dry skin directly causes wrinkles. However, this is a misconception. Wrinkles are primarily caused by sun exposure (around 70%) and genetics, not by skin dryness. If dry skin caused wrinkles, children with dry skin would have wrinkles. Instead of focusing on moisturizers, sun protection is key. While some moisturizers are effective, they don’t erase wrinkles. Price doesn’t determine quality either—a $20 moisturizer can be as good as a $100 one. However, daytime moisturizers without sunscreen are ineffective against wrinkles. At night, moisturizers with antioxidants and anti-inflammatories can be beneficial, but daytime use without sunscreen is pointless.
The Product: Exfoliates
The Truth: Exfoliation is beneficial for most skin types, especially for those over 20 with sun damage, clogged pores, or dry skin. There are two main types: mechanical exfoliation (scrubs) and chemical exfoliation (alphahydroxy and betahydroxy acids). Mechanical exfoliants, popular in the '80s, are outdated and can be replaced with a simple washcloth. On the other hand, well-formulated chemical exfoliants are more effective, though they are harder to produce and may cause irritation. Research supports that exfoliation is advantageous for most skin types when done correctly.
The Product: Foundation
The Truth: Many people choose the wrong shade of foundation. The ideal foundation should blend seamlessly with your skin tone. It’s essential to test foundations in natural daylight rather than relying on store lighting. With the vast improvements in foundation shades across all skin tones, finding a perfect match is easier than ever—just take the time to search for the right one.
The Product: Eye Color
The Truth: A common mistake is choosing eye shadows that don’t align with the occasion or outfit. Bold, iridescent, or glittery eye shadows can look out of place in professional or conservative settings. Makeup should enhance natural beauty and be appropriate for the context. Just as wearing high heels to the gym is impractical, pairing a business suit with flashy eye colors can seem mismatched. Makeup should empower and complement, not distract.
Q & A With Beauty Expert Paula Begoun (<i>cont'd</i>)
Q: What inspired you to uncover the truth about beauty products?
A: Challenging the cosmetics industry is a fascinating endeavor. It involves offering critical insights and sharing information that cosmetic companies and fashion magazines have no incentive to disclose. Whether it's dermatology, plastic surgery, or cosmetics, there's a noticeable lack of critical analysis. Dermatologists and plastic surgeons rarely critique their own practices, and fashion magazines and cosmetic companies certainly don't critique the industry. As a result, consumers are bombarded with claims about the latest and greatest products, often losing sight of the bigger picture.
Q: What in your background qualifies you to write about cosmetics?
A: I studied science in college, but I also worked as a makeup artist and aesthetician for several years and even owned my own cosmetic stores. In the late '70s and '80s, I began questioning industry claims, like the idea that astringents could close pores or that wrinkle creams could eliminate wrinkles. If these claims were true, we wouldn't need new products every year. Later, I became a beauty reporter for KIRO-TV, which led me to write my first book, Blue Eye Shadow Should Be Illegal (Beginning Press), in 1984. The book's success inspired me to continue researching and writing about the cosmetics industry. Over the past two decades, I've interviewed cosmetic chemists, dermatologists, and oncologists, read countless studies, and even taken chemistry classes to stay informed. My approach is similar to that of a reporter: I gather information from various sources and analyze it to form well-founded opinions.
Q: In your book, you suggest it's okay to squeeze blemishes. Isn't that harmful advice?
A: Dermatologists and aestheticians often extract blemishes because it reduces swelling and removes the material causing the inflammation. However, the key is to do it gently to avoid damaging the skin. The cystic sac around the blemish can make it feel like there's more to extract, but excessive squeezing can worsen the situation. After extraction, it's crucial to disinfect the area with products containing benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. Many over-the-counter products include these ingredients. Additionally, gentle cleansing is essential—scrubbing can lead to scabs, which may result in scarring.
Q: Next, we invited Paula to engage in a word association exercise. Below, she shares her insights on the following products:
A: The Product: Moisturizers
The Truth: Many believe moisturizers can eliminate wrinkles and that dry skin directly causes wrinkles. However, this is a misconception. Wrinkles are primarily caused by sun exposure (around 70%) and genetics, not by skin dryness. If dry skin caused wrinkles, children with dry skin would have wrinkles. Instead of focusing on moisturizers, sun protection is key. While some moisturizers are effective, they don’t erase wrinkles. Price doesn’t determine quality either—a $20 moisturizer can be as good as a $100 one. However, daytime moisturizers without sunscreen are ineffective against wrinkles. At night, moisturizers with antioxidants and anti-inflammatories can be beneficial, but daytime use without sunscreen is pointless.
The Product: Exfoliates
The Truth: Exfoliation is beneficial for most skin types, especially for those over 20 with sun damage, clogged pores, or dry skin. There are two main types: mechanical exfoliation (scrubs) and chemical exfoliation (alphahydroxy and betahydroxy acids). Mechanical exfoliants, popular in the '80s, are outdated and can be replaced with a simple washcloth. On the other hand, well-formulated chemical exfoliants are more effective, though they are harder to produce and may cause irritation. Research supports that exfoliation is advantageous for most skin types when done correctly.
The Product: Foundation
The Truth: Many people choose the wrong shade of foundation. The ideal foundation should blend seamlessly with your skin tone. It’s essential to test foundations in natural daylight rather than relying on store lighting. With the vast improvements in foundation shades across all skin tones, finding a perfect match is easier than ever—just take the time to search for the right one.
The Product: Eye Color
The Truth: A common mistake is choosing eye shadows that don’t align with the occasion or outfit. Bold, iridescent, or glittery eye shadows can look out of place in professional or conservative settings. Makeup should enhance natural beauty and be appropriate for the context. Just as wearing high heels to the gym is impractical, pairing a business suit with flashy eye colors can seem mismatched. Makeup should empower and complement, not distract.
