To tackle home repairs, having the right tools and materials is key, allowing you to dive into the project and move forward with your day. Understanding the fundamentals will benefit you in the long run.
Toolbox Necessities
You can build your own basic toolbox to include common repair tools such as:
A 14- or 16-ounce hammer
Standard and Phillips screwdrivers
Pliers
An adjustable wrench
A basin wrench
A 2-inch paintbrush
A handsaw or power saw
A hand drill or power drill
Assorted fasteners
Glues and adhesives for wood and plastic
What tools do you need? In the following article, we’ll explore tools used for measuring, cutting, drilling, nailing, tightening, loosening, holding, clamping, testing, painting, and much more. The most important part is learning which tools are necessary and how to use them safely. First off, let’s discuss quality. The best advice for buying tools is to choose high-quality ones. High-end tools are safer to use and, with proper care, can last a lifetime. You can typically recognize a quality tool by its smooth and shiny metal parts, and the tool’s balanced feel in your hand. On the other hand, inferior tools often have rough metal surfaces (sometimes hidden under paint) and poor machining. Above all, quality tools are safer to use, while cheaper ones can break and cause accidents. While high-quality equipment might cost about 25 percent more, cheaper tools will require more frequent replacements, making them less economical in the long run. The money saved on your first DIY project might cover the cost of quality tools. After that, the tools are yours to keep. Essential tools include measuring instruments, saws, drills, fastening tools, and tools for electrical and plumbing repairs. We’ll take a deeper look at each.Measuring ToolsEvery home improvement task requires accurate measurements. You’ll need to know precise lengths and ensure everything is level, plumb, and square. Here are the basic tools for measuring and marking: Tape measure: Tape measures come in lengths up to 50 feet, with 12 to 25 feet being the typical size for most tasks. It’s best to choose one that’s at least 5/8-inch wide for rigidity when extended. Most tapes also feature an automatic rewind, which is convenient but not essential.
Gallery of Power and Work Tools
These are common tools for measuring. View more images of power and work tools.Square: A carpenter's square typically measures 18 to 24 inches for the body and 12 or 18 inches for the tongue. This size is crucial for cutting straight edges on plywood and hardboard. For smaller tasks, a combination square is more convenient than a carpenter's square, as it is smaller—usually 12 inches long. The body of the combination square can slide along the blade and be adjusted with a thumbscrew. This type of square often includes a small bubble level or scratch awl for leveling and marking. It can also function as a depth gauge, miter square, straightedge, and ruler when the blade is removed. Try Square: Resembling a small carpenter's square with a wooden or plastic handle, a try square has measurements across the metal blade, not the handle. It's ideal for testing edge squareness during planing or sawing and checking right-angle layouts. The tongue of a try square typically reaches a maximum of 12 inches in length and can also serve as a straightedge, ruler, and depth gauge. Level: Two- and three-bubble levels are essential for most leveling tasks. They also function as straightedges, and can be used on vertical surfaces to check both horizontal and vertical levels. Levels come in wood or lightweight metal, like aluminum, with typical lengths up to 6 feet, though 30 inches is a popular size. Chalk Line: A chalk line is a handy tool for marking long, straight lines, useful for tasks like laying wallpaper or flooring tiles. Stud Finder: A stud finder is crucial when needing to locate studs behind walls for hanging heavy objects. Handsaws: Once measurements are done, you're ready to cut. There’s a variety of handsaws designed to meet different cutting needs. For example, the Crosscut Saw cuts across the grain of wood, with five to ten teeth per inch to create a smooth cut, perfect for plywood, hardboard, or cutting miters (angles).There is a broad selection of handsaws available for different purposes.Ripsaw: A ripsaw is used to cut along the grain of wood, a process known as "ripping." The teeth are spaced three to five per inch, and the saw can slice through wood like a chisel. However, the final cut tends to be rough, requiring sanding to finish. Backsaw: With a reinforced back to stiffen the blade, the backsaw’s teeth are closely spaced, like those of a crosscut saw, allowing for a smooth cut. It's primarily used for trimming molding and making angle cuts, and is designed to be used in a miter box, with the reinforced back serving as a guide. Keyhole Saw: A keyhole saw has a 10- to 12-inch tapered blade for cutting openings in walls for pipes, electrical boxes, and similar applications, as well as straight or curved cuts that are too large for augers, drills, or hole saws. A quality keyhole saw features removable blades for various tooth spacings suitable for materials like wood, plastic, metal, and hardboard. Coping Saw: A coping saw uses a thin blade that’s secured at both ends with pins. The saw is available with different blade designs, including ripsaw and crosscut teeth. Hacksaw: A hacksaw is designed to cut through metal, plastic, and pipe. Power Saws: When handsaws aren’t enough, power saws take over. These tools can be intimidating at first, but with proper safety measures, you'll get comfortable with them. After a few practice cuts, you’ll be able to handle them with ease. For example, the Circular Saw: This portable electric tool is the power version of a crosscut or ripsaw. It can be adjusted to cut miters and pockets in various building materials, and different blades (for crosscutting, ripping, masonry, metal, and plastic) are available. A circular saw can also be mounted on a table for use as a table saw. Saber Saw: Also known as a jigsaw, this tool uses a 4-inch blade that moves up and down. It can cut a wide range of materials including wood, metal, plastic, masonry, ceramic, and laminate, making it the power equivalent of a keyhole or coping saw. It’s great for making fine-line or contour cuts with or across the grain. Just like measuring tools and handsaws, drills and fasteners are vital for home repairs, which we will cover in the next section.
Drill and Fastener Tools
With so many types of drills and fasteners available, it can be overwhelming to choose the right one. In this section, we'll help you navigate your options and make the best choice for your project. Drills Power drills come with three common chuck sizes: 1⁄4-inch, 3⁄8-inch, and 1⁄2-inch. Among these, 1⁄4-inch and 3⁄8-inch are the most frequently used. A 1⁄4-inch chuck can hold 1⁄4-inch bits for metal and 1⁄2-inch bits for wood. Although the 1⁄4-inch drill is the least expensive, it is only suitable for light drilling tasks and should not be used for heavy-duty jobs.Hand and power drills are crucial tools for completing home repairs effectively.The 3⁄8-inch drill is capable of creating 3⁄8-inch holes in metal and 3⁄4-inch holes in wood. It can also accommodate a hole saw for cutting holes up to 3 inches in diameter. Many 3⁄8-inch drills feature a hammer function, allowing them to drill into concrete, along with a reversible function for screw removal. A variable-speed drill is also a valuable tool, as it enables slow starts with the ability to increase speed. Numerous accessories are available for these drills, including wire brushes, paint mixers, and even circular saw attachments. Power drills are available in both corded and cordless versions. Cordless drills, which operate on a rechargeable battery, are growing in popularity for their convenience.
How to Choose the Right Drill Bit
The drill bit you choose depends on the drill you're using. The following table will help you pick the correct drill bit.
Drill Bit
Drill Type
Use
Twist
Hand, power, or drill press
Small-diameter holesin wood and metal
Spade
Power or drill press
Holes up to 11/2 inchesin wood
Auger
Braces
Holes up to 11/2 inches in wood
Expansion
Brace
Holes up to 3 inches in wood
Fly cutter
Drill press
Holes up to 6 inches in wood; smaller holes in other materials
Hole saw
Power or drill press
Holes up to 3 inches in wood
The two primary hand drills are the push drill and the hand brace. Push drills are great for creating pilot holes and installing hinges. The hand brace is especially useful in tight spaces due to its ratcheting feature. Fasteners Fastener tools are often the go-to tools for any handyman, as they help secure various fasteners like nails, bolts, and adhesives. These tools include hammers, screwdrivers, pliers, and clamps. Here’s an overview: Hammers: The carpenter's curved-claw hammer is the most common type, with a 16-ounce weight suitable for men and a 14-ounce version for women. It has a steel head and a wood or steel handle, designed for driving nails and fasteners. The two-pronged claw is great for pulling nails out of wood. The other parts of the head are the eye and face. A flat-face hammer is easier for beginners but can make it harder to drive nails flush with the surface. A rubber mallet is perfect for tasks like loosening painted windows or tapping lightly on delicate surfaces. Specialty hammers, like the ball-peen hammer for metalwork and the mason’s hammer for brick and concrete, also come in handy.
Standard head. Also referred to as a flat, slotted, or straight screwdriver. Ensure the tip fits the screw head slot properly, both in width and thickness.
Phillips head. Also known as cross or X-head screwdrivers, these are designed to fit into a cross-shaped recess in screws or bolts.
Torx head. Torx head screwdrivers (and similar models such as Robertson) fit into a square or hexagonal hole, offering greater torque for tightening or loosening fasteners.
Wrenches: Wrenches are designed to turn bolts or nuts. The choice of wrench depends on the design and size of the fastener, as well as the accessibility of the area. Wrench types include open end, combination, adjustable, and Allen. A helpful tip: Always pull the wrench towards you rather than pushing away, as this provides better control and minimizes the risk of injury in case the wrench slips.
Box end. Box (or closed-end) wrenches are used when there’s enough space to fit the wrench’s mouth around the fastener. They come in 6- and 12-point versions to match the number of sides on the fastener, with hexagonal fasteners being the most common.
Open end. This wrench type is used when a box end wrench can’t fit around the fastener.
Combination. Combination wrenches have one open end and one closed end, each performing different functions. They may be straight or offset, and the sizes can vary slightly between ends.
Adjustable. An adjustable wrench can handle different fastener sizes but tends to be less stable than a fixed-size wrench. It should be used only when the correct size wrench is unavailable, as it may damage the fastener or cause injury.
Socket. Socket wrenches fit over fasteners, making them easier and safer to remove compared to other wrenches. They come in standard and extended depths, and extensions can be added for better leverage. They are typically sold in sets according to drive size.
Allen. Allen wrenches, named after the brand, are used on fasteners with hexagonal holes. They come with L-shaped or T-shaped handles for added convenience.
Pliers: Pliers serve as an extension of your fingers, providing extra strength for gripping and holding parts. However, they should never be used as wrenches to tighten or loosen fasteners. Common plier types include slip-joint, groove-joint, needle-nose, and locking pliers.
Slip-joint. This type of pliers features two adjustable settings in the handle, allowing you to select between two different widths. Once you've chosen the appropriate width, simply close the handles to secure the jaw around the object, holding it firmly in place.
Groove-joint. Groove-joint pliers are similar to slip-joint pliers, but they use an elongated hole with grooves in the handle, offering even more width options for different tasks.
Needle-nose. These pliers have pointed jaws designed to securely grip small parts or wires, especially in confined spaces.
Locking. Often referred to by the brand name Vise Grip, locking pliers are adjustable and can be locked in place to firmly hold a part during use.
Clamps: Clamps are vital for various home-repair projects, especially when you need to hold parts together while glue sets. Spring clamps, resembling oversized metal clothespins, are inexpensive and great for small jobs like attaching veneers to core materials. C-clamps are also versatile, available in many sizes, and are commonly used for more demanding tasks.Clamps come in many different forms, each designed for specific tasks.Clamps are typically crafted from cast iron or aluminum and feature a C-shaped body. A screw with a metal pad applies pressure to the material being clamped. Since C-clamps can exert considerable force, it is essential to place buffer blocks of scrap wood between the clamp jaws and the material. Woodworkers commonly use screw, bar, and strap clamps, while electricians and plumbers prefer tools like continuity testers and pipe wrenches. In the following section, we will explore the tools used in the electrical and plumbing professions.
Tools for Electrical and Plumbing Work
Electrical and plumbing systems are crucial to the functioning of your home. It's essential to have the knowledge to make basic repairs to both. This section will introduce you to the necessary tools for tackling electrical and plumbing issues. Electrical Tools How does electricity work? It requires a continuous pathway, known as a circuit, to flow. You can think of it like a two-lane road from point A to point B and back again. If the lanes are blocked, the flow stops. The flow of electrical current is measured by placing a tester at two points in the circuit, much like using a traffic counter on a highway. Electrical issues are often resolved using a voltage tester, a continuity tester, or a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM), also known as a multimeter or multitester. Voltage tester: This is the most basic tool. It has a small neon bulb with two insulated wires that end in metal probes. Used with the power on, it helps determine if electricity is flowing through a wire and checks the grounding. It's also used to check if the proper voltage is present. Look for a tester that can handle up to 500 volts. To use it, place one probe on one wire or connection, and the other probe on the opposite one. If the bulb lights up, the component is receiving power. If it doesn’t, there's an issue. For example, if an outlet seems faulty, insert one probe into each slot, and if the light doesn't glow, the outlet may be broken. To test further, pull the outlet from the wall and test between the terminal screws. If the light comes on, there’s current but it’s not reaching the outlet to power the plugged appliance. If it doesn’t light, no current is reaching the outlet. This could mean a blown fuse, tripped breaker, or a disconnected wire. Continuity tester: A continuity tester has a battery housed in a casing, with a test probe at one end and an alligator-clip connected test wire at the other. It works when the power is off, and it helps check if a component is carrying electricity and helps locate the source of a problem.The continuity tester (left) and the VOM (multitester) (right).To operate a continuity tester, unplug the appliance and disassemble it to access the component you're testing. Attach the tester's clip to one wire or connection, and place the probe on the other wire or connection. If the component is receiving and transmitting electricity, the tester will light up or emit a buzzing sound, indicating a continuous circuit. If the tester remains unlit or makes only a faint noise, the component is likely faulty. Always remember: never use a continuity tester while the appliance is plugged in or if the power is on. Volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM): While a voltage tester and continuity tester can handle many diagnostic tasks and are budget-friendly, more complex electrical and appliance repairs may require a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM). This battery-operated tool works with the power off and is used to check continuity in wires or components and measure the electrical current (ranging from 0 to 250 volts) flowing through a wire or component, whether it's AC (alternating current, like in homes) or DC (direct current, like in batteries). A VOM uses plug-in test leads, which might have probes on both ends or one probe with an alligator clip. Adjust the knob or switch to the desired scale, typically ohms, and read the current on the dial. Caution: Never use a VOM unless the appliance is unplugged or the circuit is powered down. A VOM offers more precise data than a continuity tester, making it preferable for testing many components. It's user-friendly, and manufacturers include detailed instructions for operation. Compressed air: A can of compressed air, available in various brands, is handy for cleaning appliances and electrical fixtures. It can clear away food particles or even help dislodge loose parts from a toaster. Some compressed air cans come with an extension tube to direct the air more precisely. If you can't find compressed air at your local store, check a computer shop, where it's sold as a keyboard and electronics dust remover. Electrical contact cleaner: This product is similar to compressed air but with a cleaning agent like isopropyl alcohol that evaporates quickly. It's ideal for cleaning electrical components that have accumulated food, grease, or oils. It can clear away foreign particles and clean parts effectively. Many hardware stores, electronics retailers, and hobby shops offer various brands of electrical contact cleaner. Plumbing Tools: Many of the tools needed for plumbing tasks are likely already in your toolkit, as they overlap with other DIY projects. However, specific tools like pipe wrenches and plumbing aids are essential for certain jobs. Let's take a look: Pipe wrenches: A medium-sized adjustable pipe wrench is essential for tightening and loosening pipes and plumbing connections. These can be found at most hardware stores and plumbing suppliers.A basin wrench is a specialized tool designed for reaching tight spaces beneath sinks and basins. Its jaws adjust to fit different sizes of nuts and can flip to the opposite side, allowing you to keep turning without having to remove the wrench. A socket wrench set is valuable for removing recessed packing nuts and can be used for tub and shower fixtures, along with other common household repairs.Plumbing tools such as these are versatile and can handle most tasks.To replace a toilet seat, you’ll need a wrench, and possibly a deep socket wrench. If you're removing a toilet for repair or replacement, a spud wrench might be necessary. Older toilets often have a large pipe known as a spud connecting the tank to the bowl. The spud is secured with extra-large hexagonal slip nuts, and a spud wrench is designed to remove them. The adjustable spud wrench is more versatile than the non-adjustable version, which has fixed openings at both ends. Plumbing aids: Plumbers' snakes, or drain-and-trap augers, come in various lengths. A shorter snake will suffice for most plumbing fixes. A closet auger, specifically designed for clearing toilet clogs, is shorter than a regular snake and housed in plastic or metal casing with a convenient crank. Plumbing can be challenging, whereas painting is often more accessible. In the final section, we’ll cover the essential painting tools for getting started.
Painting Tools
Achieving a great paint job is not only about choosing the right paint but also about using the right tools. With the proper tools, even those with little experience can achieve professional-level results. Here are a few pointers to help you get there: Paintbrushes Generally, paintbrushes fall into two categories: natural bristle brushes, which are made from animal hair, and synthetic brushes, typically made of nylon. While natural bristle brushes were once considered the top choice, synthetic brushes are now just as effective. Additionally, natural bristles cannot be used with water-based latex paints because the water makes the bristles limp. Therefore, if you're using a water-based paint, you've already narrowed down your brush selection significantly.Paintbrushes come in two main types: bristle and foam.Invest in the best brushes you can afford. While they may cost a bit more, high-quality brushes will save you time and effort in the long run. They make the painting process smoother and quicker, and they can be cleaned thoroughly and reused for many years. To identify a good brush, carefully examine it in the store. Spread the bristles and check for split ends, or 'flags.' More flags indicate a better brush, as they enhance paint coverage. Tap the brush on a counter; a high-quality brush may shed a few bristles, but a poor one will lose many. Look for brushes with long, tapered bristles, especially for narrower brushes. As a guideline, the bristle length should be about 1.5 times the width of the brush (except for wider brushes, like wall brushes). For instance, a 1.5-inch brush should have bristles around 2.25 inches long. The longer bristles allow for more flexibility, making it easier to paint corners and trim. Lastly, choose a brush with a smooth, well-shaped handle made of wood or plastic that fits comfortably in your hand. Paintbrushes come in many sizes and types, and they are essential for reaching areas that a roller can’t access. Below are the primary types of paintbrushes you'll encounter:
Wall Brush. This type of brush covers the largest area with paint. A 4-inch brush works well, but a 3 1/2-inch or 3-inch brush might be easier to maneuver.
Trim Brush. A 2-inch-wide brush is perfect for painting woodwork and for "cutting in" around windows, doors, and corners before using a roller on the walls.
Sash Brush. This brush has angled bristles and comes in widths of 1, 1 1/2, or 2 inches. The angled design makes it ideal for precise work, especially around windows. When used correctly, it can minimize the need for tape around window panes.
These same brush sizes are also available with foam urethane heads instead of bristles. The foam heads resemble sponges and have become increasingly popular, especially among DIYers, for smaller tasks like interior or exterior trim work. Disposable foam brushes are available in widths up to 3 inches and are affordable enough to discard after a single use. Paint Rollers For larger flat areas, such as walls and ceilings, paint rollers can significantly reduce the time required for the job. While brushes are used for trim and detailed areas like windows and doors, rollers help cover larger spaces. Rollers typically come in widths from 4 to 18 inches, with 7-inch and 9-inch rollers being most common for indoor use.Paint rollers designed for walls or ceilings feature handles made of either plastic or wood, often hollowed out to accept an extension handle. These rollers also have a metal or plastic frame that fits inside the roller cover. The metal-rib type (also called a bird cage or spring-metal frame) is preferred because it is easier to clean and less likely to stick to the roller cover's interior.Rollers, pads, and trays are essential tools in any painting kit.The type of roller cover you choose is mainly influenced by the type of paint you plan to use. Roller covers are either fiber-covered or urethane-foam-covered cylinders that absorb paint from a tray and release it as you roll over a flat surface. This rolling action creates a vacuum that pulls the paint off the roller. Roller covers can be made from materials such as lamb's wool, mohair, Dynel, acetate, or polyurethane foam, and most are labeled with the type of paint they're designed for. Choose your roller cover based on the paint type. Additionally, the roller package will indicate the length of the roller cover's nap, or pile, which ranges from 1/16 inch to 1 1/2 inches. For rough surfaces, opt for longer naps, while shorter naps are better for smooth surfaces. The pile is attached to a tube that fits over the roller's plastic or cardboard frame. Paint trays come in aluminum or plastic and are available in standard 7-inch and 9-inch sizes, with the 9-inch being the most common. This size allows you to use both 7-inch and 9-inch rollers. Some trays include hooks to attach them directly to a ladder for convenience. Trays are washable and durable, but using disposable plastic tray liners or lining the tray with aluminum foil can simplify cleanup. With these tools, and a bit of elbow grease, you can give your home a fresh new look.Publications International, Ltd.
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These are common tools for measuring. View more images of power and work tools.Square: A carpenter's square typically measures 18 to 24 inches for the body and 12 or 18 inches for the tongue. This size is crucial for cutting straight edges on plywood and hardboard. For smaller tasks, a combination square is more convenient than a carpenter's square, as it is smaller—usually 12 inches long. The body of the combination square can slide along the blade and be adjusted with a thumbscrew. This type of square often includes a small bubble level or scratch awl for leveling and marking. It can also function as a depth gauge, miter square, straightedge, and ruler when the blade is removed. Try Square: Resembling a small carpenter's square with a wooden or plastic handle, a try square has measurements across the metal blade, not the handle. It's ideal for testing edge squareness during planing or sawing and checking right-angle layouts. The tongue of a try square typically reaches a maximum of 12 inches in length and can also serve as a straightedge, ruler, and depth gauge. Level: Two- and three-bubble levels are essential for most leveling tasks. They also function as straightedges, and can be used on vertical surfaces to check both horizontal and vertical levels. Levels come in wood or lightweight metal, like aluminum, with typical lengths up to 6 feet, though 30 inches is a popular size. Chalk Line: A chalk line is a handy tool for marking long, straight lines, useful for tasks like laying wallpaper or flooring tiles. Stud Finder: A stud finder is crucial when needing to locate studs behind walls for hanging heavy objects. Handsaws: Once measurements are done, you're ready to cut. There’s a variety of handsaws designed to meet different cutting needs. For example, the Crosscut Saw cuts across the grain of wood, with five to ten teeth per inch to create a smooth cut, perfect for plywood, hardboard, or cutting miters (angles).
There is a broad selection of handsaws available for different purposes.Ripsaw: A ripsaw is used to cut along the grain of wood, a process known as "ripping." The teeth are spaced three to five per inch, and the saw can slice through wood like a chisel. However, the final cut tends to be rough, requiring sanding to finish. Backsaw: With a reinforced back to stiffen the blade, the backsaw’s teeth are closely spaced, like those of a crosscut saw, allowing for a smooth cut. It's primarily used for trimming molding and making angle cuts, and is designed to be used in a miter box, with the reinforced back serving as a guide. Keyhole Saw: A keyhole saw has a 10- to 12-inch tapered blade for cutting openings in walls for pipes, electrical boxes, and similar applications, as well as straight or curved cuts that are too large for augers, drills, or hole saws. A quality keyhole saw features removable blades for various tooth spacings suitable for materials like wood, plastic, metal, and hardboard. Coping Saw: A coping saw uses a thin blade that’s secured at both ends with pins. The saw is available with different blade designs, including ripsaw and crosscut teeth. Hacksaw: A hacksaw is designed to cut through metal, plastic, and pipe. Power Saws: When handsaws aren’t enough, power saws take over. These tools can be intimidating at first, but with proper safety measures, you'll get comfortable with them. After a few practice cuts, you’ll be able to handle them with ease. For example, the Circular Saw: This portable electric tool is the power version of a crosscut or ripsaw. It can be adjusted to cut miters and pockets in various building materials, and different blades (for crosscutting, ripping, masonry, metal, and plastic) are available. A circular saw can also be mounted on a table for use as a table saw. Saber Saw: Also known as a jigsaw, this tool uses a 4-inch blade that moves up and down. It can cut a wide range of materials including wood, metal, plastic, masonry, ceramic, and laminate, making it the power equivalent of a keyhole or coping saw. It’s great for making fine-line or contour cuts with or across the grain. Just like measuring tools and handsaws, drills and fasteners are vital for home repairs, which we will cover in the next section.
Hand and power drills are crucial tools for completing home repairs effectively.The 3⁄8-inch drill is capable of creating 3⁄8-inch holes in metal and 3⁄4-inch holes in wood. It can also accommodate a hole saw for cutting holes up to 3 inches in diameter. Many 3⁄8-inch drills feature a hammer function, allowing them to drill into concrete, along with a reversible function for screw removal. A variable-speed drill is also a valuable tool, as it enables slow starts with the ability to increase speed. Numerous accessories are available for these drills, including wire brushes, paint mixers, and even circular saw attachments. Power drills are available in both corded and cordless versions. Cordless drills, which operate on a rechargeable battery, are growing in popularity for their convenience.
Clamps come in many different forms, each designed for specific tasks.Clamps are typically crafted from cast iron or aluminum and feature a C-shaped body. A screw with a metal pad applies pressure to the material being clamped. Since C-clamps can exert considerable force, it is essential to place buffer blocks of scrap wood between the clamp jaws and the material. Woodworkers commonly use screw, bar, and strap clamps, while electricians and plumbers prefer tools like continuity testers and pipe wrenches. In the following section, we will explore the tools used in the electrical and plumbing professions.
The continuity tester (left) and the VOM (multitester) (right).To operate a continuity tester, unplug the appliance and disassemble it to access the component you're testing. Attach the tester's clip to one wire or connection, and place the probe on the other wire or connection. If the component is receiving and transmitting electricity, the tester will light up or emit a buzzing sound, indicating a continuous circuit. If the tester remains unlit or makes only a faint noise, the component is likely faulty. Always remember: never use a continuity tester while the appliance is plugged in or if the power is on. Volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM): While a voltage tester and continuity tester can handle many diagnostic tasks and are budget-friendly, more complex electrical and appliance repairs may require a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM). This battery-operated tool works with the power off and is used to check continuity in wires or components and measure the electrical current (ranging from 0 to 250 volts) flowing through a wire or component, whether it's AC (alternating current, like in homes) or DC (direct current, like in batteries). A VOM uses plug-in test leads, which might have probes on both ends or one probe with an alligator clip. Adjust the knob or switch to the desired scale, typically ohms, and read the current on the dial. Caution: Never use a VOM unless the appliance is unplugged or the circuit is powered down. A VOM offers more precise data than a continuity tester, making it preferable for testing many components. It's user-friendly, and manufacturers include detailed instructions for operation. Compressed air: A can of compressed air, available in various brands, is handy for cleaning appliances and electrical fixtures. It can clear away food particles or even help dislodge loose parts from a toaster. Some compressed air cans come with an extension tube to direct the air more precisely. If you can't find compressed air at your local store, check a computer shop, where it's sold as a keyboard and electronics dust remover. Electrical contact cleaner: This product is similar to compressed air but with a cleaning agent like isopropyl alcohol that evaporates quickly. It's ideal for cleaning electrical components that have accumulated food, grease, or oils. It can clear away foreign particles and clean parts effectively. Many hardware stores, electronics retailers, and hobby shops offer various brands of electrical contact cleaner. Plumbing Tools: Many of the tools needed for plumbing tasks are likely already in your toolkit, as they overlap with other DIY projects. However, specific tools like pipe wrenches and plumbing aids are essential for certain jobs. Let's take a look: Pipe wrenches: A medium-sized adjustable pipe wrench is essential for tightening and loosening pipes and plumbing connections. These can be found at most hardware stores and plumbing suppliers.A basin wrench is a specialized tool designed for reaching tight spaces beneath sinks and basins. Its jaws adjust to fit different sizes of nuts and can flip to the opposite side, allowing you to keep turning without having to remove the wrench. A socket wrench set is valuable for removing recessed packing nuts and can be used for tub and shower fixtures, along with other common household repairs.
Plumbing tools such as these are versatile and can handle most tasks.To replace a toilet seat, you’ll need a wrench, and possibly a deep socket wrench. If you're removing a toilet for repair or replacement, a spud wrench might be necessary. Older toilets often have a large pipe known as a spud connecting the tank to the bowl. The spud is secured with extra-large hexagonal slip nuts, and a spud wrench is designed to remove them. The adjustable spud wrench is more versatile than the non-adjustable version, which has fixed openings at both ends. Plumbing aids: Plumbers' snakes, or drain-and-trap augers, come in various lengths. A shorter snake will suffice for most plumbing fixes. A closet auger, specifically designed for clearing toilet clogs, is shorter than a regular snake and housed in plastic or metal casing with a convenient crank. Plumbing can be challenging, whereas painting is often more accessible. In the final section, we’ll cover the essential painting tools for getting started.
Paintbrushes come in two main types: bristle and foam.Invest in the best brushes you can afford. While they may cost a bit more, high-quality brushes will save you time and effort in the long run. They make the painting process smoother and quicker, and they can be cleaned thoroughly and reused for many years. To identify a good brush, carefully examine it in the store. Spread the bristles and check for split ends, or 'flags.' More flags indicate a better brush, as they enhance paint coverage. Tap the brush on a counter; a high-quality brush may shed a few bristles, but a poor one will lose many. Look for brushes with long, tapered bristles, especially for narrower brushes. As a guideline, the bristle length should be about 1.5 times the width of the brush (except for wider brushes, like wall brushes). For instance, a 1.5-inch brush should have bristles around 2.25 inches long. The longer bristles allow for more flexibility, making it easier to paint corners and trim. Lastly, choose a brush with a smooth, well-shaped handle made of wood or plastic that fits comfortably in your hand. Paintbrushes come in many sizes and types, and they are essential for reaching areas that a roller can’t access. Below are the primary types of paintbrushes you'll encounter:
Rollers, pads, and trays are essential tools in any painting kit.The type of roller cover you choose is mainly influenced by the type of paint you plan to use. Roller covers are either fiber-covered or urethane-foam-covered cylinders that absorb paint from a tray and release it as you roll over a flat surface. This rolling action creates a vacuum that pulls the paint off the roller. Roller covers can be made from materials such as lamb's wool, mohair, Dynel, acetate, or polyurethane foam, and most are labeled with the type of paint they're designed for. Choose your roller cover based on the paint type. Additionally, the roller package will indicate the length of the roller cover's nap, or pile, which ranges from 1/16 inch to 1 1/2 inches. For rough surfaces, opt for longer naps, while shorter naps are better for smooth surfaces. The pile is attached to a tube that fits over the roller's plastic or cardboard frame. Paint trays come in aluminum or plastic and are available in standard 7-inch and 9-inch sizes, with the 9-inch being the most common. This size allows you to use both 7-inch and 9-inch rollers. Some trays include hooks to attach them directly to a ladder for convenience. Trays are washable and durable, but using disposable plastic tray liners or lining the tray with aluminum foil can simplify cleanup. With these tools, and a bit of elbow grease, you can give your home a fresh new look.Publications International, Ltd.
