Buzz
When you face a cheese platter, one common dilemma arises: should you eat the rind? This outer layer forms during the aging process of the cheese, somewhat like the crust of bread. It's part of the cheese itself, and if you're feeling adventurous, you absolutely can (and perhaps should) try it. However, avoid it if it's made from wax, bark, or cheesecloth—definitely not appetizing.
The rind is where the cheese’s maturation begins, which is why it often holds the most intense, and sometimes smelly, flavors.
There are four primary types of edible rinds: bloomy, washed, natural, and dry. Within these types, there are many unique subcategories. The rind offers insight into the cheese-making process and hints at the flavors you’re about to experience even before you take a bite.
Bloomy Rinds
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These are the delicate, sometimes velvety rinds found on cheeses like Brie and Bucheron. Cheesemakers introduce bacteria such as Penicillium candidum to the outer layer, prompting mold to bloom and eventually harden around the cheese. This process breaks down the fat, giving the cheese a rich, creamy texture. Depending on the milk used, you might taste buttery, Chardonnay-like notes (cow), tangy, peppery flavors (goat), or citric, sweet tones (sheep).
Bloomy rinds are some of the friendliest rinds you’ll encounter—even if they do sometimes look a bit odd. The fuzz is perfectly fine as long as it’s not yellow, orange, red, or dark blue/black. If you catch a strong ammonia scent, it’s best to avoid the cheese. But if the rind looks like a brain, go ahead and indulge. That’s just the Geotrichum fungus doing its magic, and it’s tasty. Mmmm...braaaaaains. Or rather, mmmmm…Chabichou.
Washed Rind
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These are exactly what they sound like...cheeses that have been washed. The affineur (the expert in charge of the cheese aging process) immerses the cheese in a solution that helps it ripen and develop a thick orange rind, resulting in a bold, savory flavor. The wash can vary depending on the desired outcome. Classic examples like Taleggio and Limburger are soaked in a basic saline brine, and while their exterior may have a strong aroma, the interior often remains smooth in texture and taste. Generally, the longer they mature, the stronger their funk (Epoisse, anyone?). Some artisan cheesemakers get creative with washed rinds, using wine or beer for an extra kick. Now that’s a rind worth trying.
Natural Rinds
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These rinds form with minimal human intervention compared to bloomy or washed rinds. They can be sharp and firm (think Cabot’s Clothbound Cheddar) or soft and crumbly (like Gorwydd Caerphilly or Stilton). The rind develops naturally during the aging process, depending on the cave’s temperature and humidity. While air and moisture usually do the trick, sometimes cheesecloth or leaves are used to wrap the cheese, promoting mold growth—which should be removed before consumption. These rinds are often dry, earthy, and impressively intricate.
Dry Rinds
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Ah, Parmigiano Reggiano, my timeless companion. These sturdy, natural rinds are designed to keep mold at bay while allowing the cheese to mature into its hard, sharp excellence. Though not the most appetizing, these rinds can be fantastic when used to enhance soup stocks, stews, or slow-simmered pasta sauces, contributing a rich creaminess.
