Is Everything That Glitters Truly Sterling Silver?

Whether it's a piece of jewelry or your grandmother's cherished antique tea set, an object labeled as "real" silver may not actually be 100 percent silver. While almost pure silver exists — about 99.9 percent purity is achievable — pure silver alone is far less practical than when combined with another metal. The closer silver gets to pure, the softer it becomes. In fact, you could easily bend 99.9 percent pure silver with your hands.

Since malleability is typically not desirable for items like forks or necklaces, metalsmiths have been crafting silver alloys for centuries. The formula recognized as real silver for over five centuries, according to British standards, is what we now call sterling silver.

What Is Sterling Silver?

Sterling silver consists of 92.5 percent silver combined with 7.5 percent another metal, usually copper, as stated by Steve Nelson, owner of Nelson & Nelson Antiques in Manhattan. The copper strengthens the otherwise soft silver, giving it both flexibility and durability. Other metals like zinc and nickel can also be used in the sterling silver mix. Despite the addition of these metals, sterling silver maintains its signature bright, white-gray shine.

"The color of sterling silver is quite appealing," Nelson comments. "Older pieces develop a patina over time, which softens their color." This patina forms due to numerous micro-scratches, yet to the eye, it offers a gentler appearance. Thanks to the inclusion of copper or other metals, sterling silver is incredibly durable and can last forever.

Take, for example, the rare silver petal-lobed stem cup from the Ming Dynasty, which lasted from the 14th to the 17th centuries. Or consider the George III sterling silver sweetmeat dishes from the late 18th century.

History of Sterling Silver

While there's little doubt about sterling silver's durability, questions might arise about how the specific 92.5 percent ratio became the established standard or how it came to be known as sterling.

By the 12th century in England, silver coins were referred to as "Easterlings," a term later shortened to "sterling." In 1300, King Edward I officially defined sterling silver by proclaiming that it had to be 92.5 percent pure silver and should be stamped by "guardians of the craft."

To regulate silver and hallmarks — essentially to standardize sterling — the British formed the Goldsmith's Company. This move came in response to artisans claiming their silver objects met certain purity standards when, in fact, they did not, as Nelson explains.

"They were producing inferior silver," he explains. Nelson notes that in the early years of the Goldsmith's Company, during the late Middle Ages, if a silversmith stamped a piece with the sterling mark that wasn't at least 92.5 percent silver, the punishment could be death. Today, the Goldsmith's Company is one of London's oldest guilds, having received its royal charter in 1327. (Though they no longer execute silversmiths for such offenses.)

However, this didn't mean that all silver produced in that era adhered strictly to the 92.5 percent standard. Other variations existed, such as 950 silver, which is 95 percent pure. But silver items with a higher silver content had to be thicker and heavier to maintain their strength.

Sterling Silver Hallmarks

Identifying whether your silver is sterling, purer, or substandard is simple in theory. Just search for the hallmark. These marks were introduced in Britain and later adopted worldwide. They are typically located somewhere on the piece, often at the bottom.

If the sterling silver was made in the United States, look for the word "sterling" or "925." However, British and French hallmarks are more intricate and detailed.

The English began recording the sterling standard around 500 years ago, Nelson explains. The hallmarks not only indicate sterling quality, but also reveal where and when the silver was crafted. For instance, a lion's head hallmark represents English sterling, while additional animals or symbols specify the exact location of its creation.

For example, sterling with a leopard head hallmark was produced in London, while pieces marked with an anchor mark came from Birmingham, England. Each year had its own distinctive letter, and when the alphabet was repeated, a new font was introduced. Maker's marks originally featured symbols, but by the 17th century, they evolved to include the maker's initials.

French silver came in 950 and 800 versions — meaning 95 percent or 80 percent silver — and was marked to reflect this. A Minerva head with the No. 1 indicated a 950 piece, while No. 2 represented the lower quality, as Nelson notes.

But these are just a few examples. Countries from Denmark to China each developed their own hallmark systems, whether the silver is sterling or not. The journey of learning and understanding these various silver marks could take longer than the lifespan of the silver itself.

How Much Is Sterling Worth?

With the variety of sterling silver available on the market, values can vary significantly. However, Nelson notes that in the realm of antiques, English silver is generally more prized. There’s also a scarcity of antique American sterling because, prior to 1860, much of the silver produced in the U.S. was only 90 percent pure, which disqualifies it from being considered sterling.

Known as "coin silver," this alloy was developed due to the inconsistent availability of silver in the U.S. To create silver items, American smiths melted down existing silver objects, such as coins, which were typically 90 percent silver and 10 percent copper, and repurposed them into new creations.

Even less valuable than sterling is that silver tea set your grandmother claimed was sterling but is actually silver-plated. Plating involves coating one material with a thin layer of another, and in the case of silver plating, the base is often copper with a thin covering of silver. And, naturally, silver-plated items come with their own set of hallmarks.

What Is Made of Sterling Silver?

Many items that were once crafted from sterling silver continue to be made from it today. These include household objects like centerpieces, candlesticks, trays, as well as jewelry and watches. Additionally, sterling silver is sometimes used in modern dog collars. Of course, silverware received its name due to its association with silver — whether sterling or plated — though today most of us use less valuable flatware.

"The style may differ as tastes have evolved over time," Nelson observes. However, contemporary sterling silver is more often used for decorative purposes than for historical uses.

You can also find silver in electronics today, though it’s not sterling, but pure 99.9 percent silver. According to the U.S. Geological Survey, 35 percent of silver in the United States was utilized in electronics and electrical applications in 2013.

Unfortunately, you can't melt down your old coins to make a new silver necklace, as coins stopped being made with 90 percent silver after 1964, except for a brief period with half dollars.

To maintain the pristine look of sterling silver, especially the way it looked when first smelted in the 18th century, gently rub it with a soft polishing cloth if the piece isn't tarnished. If tarnished, clean it with silver polish paste and a sponge or cloth, followed by a rinse with warm water to remove any residual paste from intricate areas.

Nelson suggests performing this cleaning routine every few months or whenever you spot any yellowing. Cleaning is simple if the item is yellow, but if it's turned black, it will require more effort to restore.