Is mascarpone or ricotta the better choice for cannoli filling?

In "The Godfather," Clemenza famously declared, "Leave the gun; take the cannoli," showcasing his impeccable taste. But were those cannoli filled with ricotta or mascarpone?

Cannoli, a beloved Italian dessert, features a crispy, tube-shaped shell crafted from fried dough, encasing a luscious, sweet filling. Variations often include candied fruits like cherries or orange peel, pistachios, or hints of cocoa and cinnamon.

Though widely recognized as an Italian delicacy, cannoli trace their roots back to Sicily. This sweet delight has been enjoyed since antiquity, with Roman philosopher Marcus Tullius Cicero referencing a similar pastry as early as 70 BCE. Historians suggest it gained popularity as a festive treat during Carnivale, a Christian celebration akin to Mardi Gras but featuring cannoli. Some theories link its origins to the harem of Caltanissetta, with the name "cannoli" deriving from the Arabic "Kalt el Nissa," meaning 'city of women' [source: La Cucina Eoliana e Siciliana].

Whether a symbol of Carnivale indulgence or fertility, Italians unanimously agree on one thing: a classic cannolo (singular for cannoli) is filled with ricotta cheese, sweetened with sugar or honey, and flavored with orange-flower water, vanilla, or rosewater. So why do variations with mascarpone, cream cheese, custard, or even ice cream exist? While these alternatives are delicious, they stray from the dessert's authentic roots.

Cannoli Filling: Ricotta or mascarpone cheese?

The creamy center of a cannoli isn't whipped cream, pastry cream, or custard—it's cheese. Traditionally, this cheese is fresh ricotta made from sheep's milk.

Ricotta, a soft, white cheese, is crafted from whey, a protein byproduct of dairy processing used to make cheeses like pecorino. Low in fat and slightly grainy, it resembles a sweeter, smoother version of cottage cheese. Interestingly, ricotta isn't technically a cheese since it's made from whey, not milk, though it's commonly referred to as one. In the U.S., cow's milk whey is typically used, but authentic cannoli feature smooth, sweetened ricotta from sheep's milk, which boasts a richer flavor compared to its cow's milk counterpart.

Due to its soft and liquid consistency, ricotta is strained before being used as a pastry filling.

Traditionally, ricotta is the preferred filling for cannoli, but this is based on custom rather than strict rules.

Mascarpone, while sharing a similar flavor profile with ricotta, is a thick, high-fat, triple cream cheese with a texture akin to butter or custard. Made from cow's milk, this Italian cheese is a staple in tiramisu but is also used in U.S.-style cannoli as a substitute for ricotta. Its thicker consistency reduces the risk of runny fillings and soggy shells, a common issue with ricotta. Some recipes combine ricotta and mascarpone, blending the traditional flavor of ricotta with the creamy texture of mascarpone for the best of both worlds.