Knitting Instructions

With just the basic knit and purl stitches, you can craft countless beautiful creations. However, don’t limit yourself—explore new patterns and techniques to keep your knitting journey fresh and thrilling.

This guide is packed with valuable insights to help you tackle more intricate knitting designs. Learn essential skills like increasing and decreasing stitches, as well as advanced methods such as cabling, to elevate your knitting expertise. Key highlights include:

• Determining and Knitting Gauge
• Discover the importance of calculating your knitting gauge before beginning any project with the guidance provided on this page.
• Knitting in the Round Master seamless knitting techniques using circular or double-pointed needles with the instructions found here.
• Knitting Increases Explore various methods for increasing stitches, such as yarn overs and the make one technique, detailed on this page.
• Knitting Decreases From knitting two stitches together to the slip slip knit method, this section covers essential decrease techniques to enhance your knitting projects.
• Special Knitting Stitches Learn about unique stitches frequently used in patterns, including slip stitches, duplicate stitches, and simple I-cords, on this page.
• Knitting Cables Although more advanced, cable knitting becomes accessible with the tips provided here, allowing you to craft intricate designs effortlessly.
• Joining New Yarn Find the best techniques for adding new yarn to your project, whether matching or contrasting colors, with the advice featured here.
• Knitting Buttonholes This section offers practical tips for creating buttonholes in sweaters and other knitted items.
• Fixing Knitting Mistakes Learn how to address common knitting errors, such as dropped stitches, with the solutions provided on this page.
• Basic Crochet Stitches Understand how mastering basic crochet stitches can complement your knitting skills in this section.
• Finishing: Picking Up Stitches Get essential tips for picking up stitches along different knitted edges here.
• Finishing: Seams and Weaving Yarn Tails Learn how to sew seams and weave in yarn tails to ensure your knitted pieces are both attractive and durable.
• Washing and Blocking Knitting Follow the advice on this page to properly wash and block your knitted creations.
• Felted Knitting Transform your knitted items into unique, sturdy felted pieces with the techniques outlined in this section.
• Standard Knitting Abbreviations Refer to this page for a comprehensive list of common knitting abbreviations and their meanings.

We'll begin by understanding why determining gauge is crucial on the following page.

Determining and Knitting Gauge

Gauge, also known as tension, refers to the number of stitches or rows per inch achieved with a specific yarn and needle size. These measurements help determine the stitches and rows needed to reach the desired dimensions. Keep in mind, the needle size in the pattern reflects the designer's gauge. Even with the same materials, knitters may achieve different gauges. A slight variation of half a stitch per inch can significantly alter the final project size. Always create a gauge swatch before starting—it’s worth the effort. You may need multiple attempts to achieve the correct gauge.

How to Knit a Gauge Swatch

Start with the primary needle size specified in the pattern. Cast on approximately 6 inches of stitches, using the stitch gauge provided in the pattern to calculate the exact number. Work the main pattern until the swatch reaches 4 inches in length, then bind off all stitches. Place the swatch on a flat, firm surface. Measure and count the number of stitches across a 4-inch section (fig. 13a).

Divide the stitch count by 4 to determine the number of stitches per inch. Repeat this process in multiple areas to ensure accuracy. To measure rows, place a ruler or measuring tape vertically on the swatch and count the rows over 2 inches (fig. 13b), or 4 inches for larger patterns. Divide the total by 2 (or 4) to calculate the number of rows per inch. Note: Knit stitches are typically wider than they are tall. In patterns like stockinette stitch, you’ll usually find more rows per inch than stitches per inch.

Compare your gauge to the pattern's specified gauge. If your swatch has more stitches per inch, your stitches are smaller, and you should switch to larger needles to match the required gauge. Conversely, if your swatch has fewer stitches per inch, your stitches are larger, and smaller needles will help achieve the correct gauge. Measure carefully and knit multiple swatches, adjusting needle sizes as needed, until you achieve the precise gauge required.

Discover how simple and efficient knitting in the round can be with the tips provided on the following page.

Knitting in the Round

Seamless knitting is achievable by working in rounds using either circular needles or double-pointed needles.

Circular Needles

To knit in rounds, cast your stitches onto one end of the circular needle, just as you would with a straight needle. Ensure the cast-on lies flat and untwisted. Place a stitch marker at the end to indicate the start of the round (fig. 14a), and follow your pattern instructions for the first round.

Double-Pointed Needles

Divide your cast-on stitches evenly across three or four needles, reserving one needle for knitting. Ensure the cast-on lies flat and untwisted. Optionally, place a stitch marker on the first needle to mark the round's start. (Be cautious, as markers can slip off double-pointed needles.) The needles will form a triangle (with three needles) (fig. 14b) or a square (with four needles). Use the empty needle to knit all stitches from the first needle, then proceed to the next needle. Continue knitting stitches from each double-pointed needle onto an empty needle, following the pattern instructions.

In the next section, discover techniques for adding stitches to your knitting projects.

Knitting Increases

Increases (inc) are essential for shaping your knitting and crafting lace patterns. There are numerous techniques for making increases; below, we outline some common methods. While some patterns specify the type of increase to use, others leave it to your discretion.

Understanding how each increase impacts your knitting's appearance is crucial for selecting the right method. Practice each increase technique on small swatches, label them, and save them for future reference. Avoid increasing or decreasing edge stitches, as this can hinder smooth seam finishing. Always position increases or decreases at least one stitch away from the edges.

Yarn Over (yo)

A yarn over is a fundamental technique in lace knitting and is incredibly easy to execute. Many beginners unintentionally create yarn overs, often referred to as holes rather than lace. Typically, you move the yarn between the needles to avoid creating extra loops. To intentionally make a yarn over, bring the yarn to the front of your work and knit the next stitches as directed (fig. 16a). On the following row, treat the yarn over like any other stitch, knitting into its front loop and transferring it from the left needle after completion.

Knit 1 in the Front and Back Loops (k1f&b)/Bar Increase

This increase is particularly noticeable in stockinette stitch, creating a small bump resembling a purl stitch. It can be used decoratively or when the purl bump aligns with the stitch pattern. Known for its simplicity, the bar increase is a popular choice among knitters.

To execute this increase, knit into the front loop but keep the stitch on the left needle (fig. 16b). Then, knit into the back loop of the same stitch (fig. 16c).

Make One (m1)

These increases are created by knitting into the horizontal strand between stitches on the right and left needles. One technique produces a left-leaning increase, where the front strand slants to the left, while the other results in a right-leaning increase. Together, these are known as paired increases.

To create a left-leaning increase:

Step 1: Insert the left needle from front to back under the horizontal strand (fig. 16d).

Step 2: Using the right needle, knit into the back of the strand (fig. 16e).

Step 3: Remove the strand from the left needle. You’ve now created one new stitch (an increase) on the right needle. Observe how the front strand of this new stitch slants to the left (fig. 16f).

To create a right-leaning increase:

Step 1: Insert the left needle from back to front under the horizontal strand (fig. 16g).

Step 2: Knit into the front of the strand (fig. 16h).

Step 3: Remove the strand from the left needle. You’ve now created one new stitch (an increase) on the right needle. Notice how the front strand of this new stitch slants to the right (fig. 16i).

Next, we’ll explore knitting decreases on the following page.

Knitting Decreases

Decreases (dec) are used for shaping sweater necklines, creating lace patterns, and more. Some decreases slant distinctly to the left or right, and patterns may specify which type to use. These are often referred to as paired decreases.

Knit Two Together (k2tog)

The knit two together decrease involves working two stitches as one. With the yarn at the back, skip the first stitch on the left needle and insert the right needle knitwise into the second and first stitches simultaneously. Knit them together as a single stitch (fig. 17a), then remove them from the left needle. This decrease slants to the right on the knit side.

Purl Two Together (p2tog)

This decrease is the purl-side equivalent of the knit two together method. With the yarn in front, insert the right needle through the next two stitches on the left needle as if to purl (fig. 17b). Purl them together as one stitch and remove them from the left needle. When viewed from the knit side, this decrease slants to the right.

Slip Slip Knit (ssk)

The slip slip knit method is a left-leaning, one-stitch decrease, often paired with knit two together on knit rows.

To execute this decrease, slip two stitches knitwise, one by one, from the left needle to the right needle. Insert the left needle tip from left to right into the front loops of both slipped stitches (fig. 17c) with the yarn at the back. Knit both stitches together from this position.

Discover techniques for other common stitches found in knitting patterns, such as the slip stitch, on the following page.

Special Knitting Stitches

While following a knitting pattern, you might encounter special stitches that aren’t increases or decreases. Below are tips for some of the most frequently used ones.

Slip Stitch (sl st)

Occasionally, patterns instruct you to slip a stitch, meaning you transfer it to the right needle without knitting or purling. The instructions may specify whether to slip it knitwise or purlwise. To slip knitwise (fig. 15a), keep the yarn at the back and insert the right needle into the next stitch on the left needle as if to knit. Instead of wrapping the yarn, simply slide the stitch onto the right needle.

To slip purlwise with yarn in back (fig. 15b), with the knit side facing you, insert the right needle into the next stitch on the left needle as if to purl, then slide the stitch onto the right needle.

To slip purlwise with yarn in front (fig. 15c), with the purl side facing you, slip the stitch as if to purl. When slipped this way, the strand won’t appear on the knit side. However, some patterns may reverse this process, so always adhere to the instructions.

Why does the method of slipping stitches matter? When slipped purlwise, stitches transfer untwisted, keeping the front loop in front. When slipped knitwise, they twist, placing the back loop in front. Some patterns require this twist, while others do not.

A general guideline for slipping stitches: Always slip purlwise unless the pattern specifies otherwise. An exception is when the stitch is part of a decrease, where it’s slipped knitwise in a twisted position. This twist resolves when the decrease is completed.

Duplicate Stitch

Duplicate stitch is ideal for creating small designs, enhancing intarsia (large color blocks), repairing socks, or covering knitting errors. It results in a stiffer fabric since stitches are layered over existing knit fabric. This technique can be worked horizontally, vertically, or diagonally.

For horizontal stitches:

Step 1: Thread a tapestry needle with yarn matching the knit fabric. Use strands around 18" (46cm) long to prevent yarn from untwisting or shedding as you work. Re-thread the needle as needed.

Step 2: Start the first duplicate stitch at the lower right corner of the design or motif. (Work from right to left.) Secure the yarn on the wrong side and bring the needle to the front at the base of the first stitch.

Step 3: Insert the needle into the top right side of the same stitch, carry it across the back, and bring it to the front on the left side of the stitch (fig. 29a). Reinsert the needle into the base of the first stitch.

Step 4: Bring the needle up through the base of the stitch to the left of the one just duplicated. Repeat step 3.

To begin the next horizontal row, insert the needle into the base of the last stitch completed, then bring the needle and yarn to the front through the center of that stitch. Turn the work (the motif will now be upside down) and repeat the horizontal stitching process for the second row, mirroring the previous row. Continue stitching horizontally from right to left for each row. Secure yarn tails by weaving them through the back of the stitches.

For vertical stitches:

Start at the lowest point and work upward. Follow the same method as horizontal duplicate stitch, but bring the needle to the front through the center of the stitch above the one just completed, rather than to the left (fig. 29b).

For diagonal stitches:

These stitches combine horizontal and vertical techniques. After completing a horizontal stitch, instead of moving to the next stitch in the same row, bring the needle out at the base of the next stitch one row above and to the left.

How to Make a Simple I-Cord

An I-cord can be created using double-pointed needles or a short circular needle, perfect for drawstrings, straps, or ties.

Step 1: Cast on 3 or 4 stitches onto a double-pointed needle. Slide the stitches to the opposite end of the needle, leaving the working yarn at the "wrong" end (fig. 22a).

Step 2: With the yarn stretched across the back of the stitches, bring it to the front at the needle tip and knit the stitches (fig. 22b).

Step 3: Repeat step 2 until the cord reaches the desired length. Unless specified otherwise, finish the final row by slipping 1 stitch, knitting 2 together, and passing the slipped stitch over. Cut the yarn and thread the end through the last stitch.

Knitting cables may seem challenging, but once you master the basics, you’ll be amazed at the intricate designs you can create. Discover more about cables on the next page.

Knitting Cables

You’ve likely admired the intricate textures of Aran sweaters but assumed such patterns were too advanced. While not ideal for beginners, Aran designs become achievable with practice. A key feature of these designs is the cable.

Cables are typically worked on a reverse stockinette stitch background, as the textured backdrop highlights the smooth cable twists. Essentially, cables involve crossing stitches on the right side, twisting them to the right or left depending on whether they’re crossed to the front or back. A cable needle is essential, and stitch markers can help identify the cable sections. Alternatively, you can read the stitches to distinguish the reverse stockinette background from the stockinette cable stitches. Cables are often worked over a varying number of stitches, usually in stockinette stitch, with a common example being a four-stitch cable.

Back Cross Cable, or Cable 4 Back (C4b)

The four-stitch back cable slants to the right. To create it, work up to the cable stitches, slip the next two stitches onto a cable needle, and hold it at the back. Knit the following two stitches on the left needle (fig. 18a), then knit the two stitches from the cable needle (C4b completed).

Front Cross Cable, or Cable 4 Front (C4f)

The four-stitch front cable slants to the left and is created similarly to the back cable, but the cable needle is held at the front. Work up to the cable stitches, slip the next two stitches onto the cable needle, and hold it in front. Knit the following two stitches on the left needle (fig. 18b), then knit the two stitches from the cable needle (C4f completed).

Learning how to join new yarn is a valuable skill for many knitting projects. Find out how on the next page.

Joining New Yarn

When you’re close to finishing a ball of yarn, aim to switch to the new yarn at the edge of a row. This avoids uneven stitches in the middle of your work and simplifies weaving in the yarn tails, as they can be hidden in the seams.

Step 1: Tie the old and new yarns together near the needle using an overhand knot (to be removed later), leaving 4- to 6-inch (10-15cm) tails on both yarns.

Step 2: Drop the old yarn and start knitting with the new one. As you gain experience, you may skip knotting and simply drop the old yarn, securing the tails later.

Another method is to knit a few stitches with both the old and new yarn held together. Then drop the old yarn and continue with the new. This securely joins the yarn and reduces the number of ends to weave in, but it may leave a noticeable bump, so avoid using it in visible areas.

Changing Colors

When switching colors mid-row, drop the old color on the wrong side, pick up the new color from beneath the old, and continue knitting with the new color (fig. 21). This technique prevents gaps between the colors.

Stranding Colors

Also known as Fair Isle, Scandinavian, or Norwegian knitting, stranding involves using two colors in the same row, carrying the unused yarn across the back (fig. 19a). Fair Isle typically uses no more than two colors per row, while Scandinavian knitting may use more. Avoid patterns with long strands (over an inch) to prevent snags. To secure unused yarn, weave it over the working yarn before the next stitch.

While knitting with yarn in one hand, whether American-English or Continental style, is possible, mastering the use of both hands (fig. 19b) allows for faster knitting and better stitch tension control. This technique not only enables you to create stunning sweaters but also impresses onlookers with your ambidextrous knitting skills!

Mastering the art of knitting buttonholes is essential for sweater patterns. Discover more in the next section.

Knitting Buttonholes

There are several methods to create buttonholes, with the horizontal, vertical, and yarn over techniques being the most common. Patterns specify which type to use, and the materials section lists the required number and size of buttons. It’s advisable to purchase buttons beforehand to ensure the buttonholes are the correct size.

Buttonholes in knitting tend to stretch over time, so it’s wise to make them slightly smaller than the buttons. Avoid buttons with sharp or rough edges, as they can damage the yarn and cause snags.

Horizontal Buttonhole

The horizontal buttonhole, often referred to as the two-row buttonhole, requires two rows to complete.

Step 1: On the right side, knit to the buttonhole location, bind off the specified number of stitches, and continue the row. (Note: Binding off the first stitch uses two stitches.) Count your stitches at the row’s end, ensuring you’ve subtracted the bound-off stitches.

Step 2: On the wrong side, work to the bound-off section, then cast on the required stitches using the simple cast-on or cable cast-on. Finish the row and verify the stitch count matches the original.

Vertical Buttonhole

This buttonhole is created by working both sides simultaneously using separate yarn balls. If you lack an extra ball, prepare a small one before starting.

Step 1: On the wrong side, knit to the buttonhole location with the working yarn. Drop it, pick up the new yarn, and join it to knit the rest of the row. The stitch count stays unchanged.

Step 2: Using the new yarn, knit to the buttonhole, drop it, and switch back to the working yarn to finish the row. Repeat these steps until the buttonhole reaches the desired length.

Last row: With the working yarn, knit to the buttonhole and complete the row. Cut the new yarn and weave in the loose ends. Resume the pattern using the working yarn.

Yarn Over Buttonhole

This simple buttonhole is ideal for garments like baby clothing, requiring small buttonholes. It’s self-adjusting, creating larger holes with thicker yarns. To make it, work to the buttonhole location, then yarn over (yo) and knit two together (k2tog). The stitch count remains unchanged.

Even seasoned knitters make errors. Discover how to correct knitting mistakes on the next page.

Fixing Knitting Mistakes

Mistakes are a natural part of knitting, but the good news is they’re easy to fix. Learning to correct them ensures you can continue your project with confidence.

Dropped Stitches

Frequently count your stitches, especially after casting on or making increases or decreases. This practice helps catch errors early. If your stitch count is low, a stitch may have slipped off the needle.

Use a crochet hook to fix a dropped stitch, whether it’s slipped one row or multiple rows (a running stitch).

Step 1: Face the knit side of your work. Count the horizontal strands between the needles to see how many rows the stitch has dropped. Start with the strand closest to the dropped stitch. Insert a crochet hook into the loop from front to back, catching the first horizontal strand and pulling it through (fig. 20a). Repeat for each strand until the stitch is back in place.

Step 2: Place the corrected stitch onto the left needle untwisted, ensuring the right loop is in front of the needle (fig. 20b).

Continue following the pattern.

Discover basic crochet stitches on the next page to enhance your knitting with decorative edges and more.

Basic Crochet Stitches

Mastering a few basic crochet stitches, such as chain stitch (ch), single crochet (sc), and double crochet (dc), is highly beneficial for knitters. These stitches are often used for decorative edges, casting on, binding off, creating buttonholes, buttons, cords, and embellishments.

Crochet hook sizes align with knitting needle sizes, but their labeling system differs. Steel hooks, the smallest, use numbers where higher numbers indicate smaller sizes. Larger hooks are labeled with letters and numbers (A/0 to P/16), and some include metric sizes. Many knitters use a hook one or two sizes smaller than their needle size to avoid ruffling or waviness, ensuring the crochet lies flat against the knit fabric. Test on your gauge swatch to find the best hook size for your project.

Crochet Chain (ch)

The chain stitch serves as the foundational row in crochet and is both quick and simple to create.

Step 1: Start with a slipknot. Insert the crochet hook into the slipknot from right to left, catching the working yarn. Pull up a loop and place it on the hook. Tighten the slipknot around the hook by pulling both the yarn tail and working yarn.

Step 2: Hold the hook in your right hand and the working yarn in your left. Wrap the yarn over the hook from back to front and pull it through the loop on the hook (fig. 30a).

Step 3: Repeat step 2 until the chain reaches the desired length (fig. 30b). Once the final chain is complete, cut the working yarn, leaving a tail to weave in later.

Step 4: Thread the tail through the last chain on the hook and pull to secure it tightly.

Single Crochet (sc)

Single crochet is a quick and effective way to finish the edges of your knitted projects. It can be worked directly into knit stitches, along a bound-off edge, or as a border for other crochet stitches. This technique creates a sturdy finish and helps edges lay flat.

Step 1: Insert the hook under a bound-off stitch (or as instructed). Wrap the working yarn over the hook and pull through a loop, then yarn over again and pull through the loop on the hook (fig. 31a).

Step 2: Insert the hook under the next bound-off stitch (fig. 31b), yarn over, and pull up a loop (two loops on the hook).

Yarn over again and pull the yarn through both loops on the hook, leaving one loop remaining (fig. 31c).

Step 3: Repeat step 2 until the desired number of stitches is achieved. Finish as directed by the pattern.

Double Crochet (dc)

This stitch is worked into a chain, single crochet, or directly into the knitting, as demonstrated here.

Step 1: Insert the hook into the knitting one stitch from the edge, yarn over, and pull up a loop. Yarn over again and pull through the loop on the hook. Yarn over, insert the hook into the next base stitch (fig. 32a), and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook).

Yarn over and pull through the first two loops (fig. 32b), then yarn over and pull through the last two loops (fig. 32c).

The double crochet is now complete, with one loop remaining on the hook (fig. 32d).

Step 2: Yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over, and pull up a loop (three loops on the hook). Yarn over and pull through two loops, then yarn over and pull through the last two loops. The second double crochet is complete, leaving one loop on the hook.

Repeat step 2 as per the pattern. To finish the last stitch, after completing step 2, cut the yarn and pull it through the final loop on the hook.

On the next page, we’ll explore the finishing steps required for completing a knitting project.

Finishing: Picking Up Stitches

Pick up stitches using a knitting needle or crochet hook and yarn. For a cleaner edge, use needles or a hook one or two sizes smaller than the working needle. After picking up, switch to the needle size specified in the pattern. The right side of the work should face you unless otherwise instructed.

If the pattern doesn’t specify the number of stitches to pick up, measure the pickup area and multiply it by the stitch gauge of the border pattern. Divide the area into quarters or smaller sections, marking them with pins or thread to ensure even stitch distribution. Example: To pick up 100 stitches, divide the area into four sections and pick up 25 stitches in each. If the border uses a different color, pick up stitches in the main color and switch to the new color on the next row.

Picking Up Stitches Along a Bound-off Edge

With the right side of the garment facing you, insert the tip of the right-hand needle into the first full stitch below the bind-off row (fig. 24a). Wrap the yarn around the needle and pull it through, creating a new stitch. Repeat for each stitch until the required number of stitches is on the needle.

Picking Up Stitches Along a Side Edge

With the right side facing (unless otherwise instructed), join the working yarn at the lower edge if not already attached. Insert the right needle into the first full stitch of the first row, wrap the yarn knitwise, and pull through a loop to create a new stitch on the right needle (fig. 24b).

Repeat the process, spacing the pickup stitches evenly along the side edge and always working into a full stitch. Avoid leaving gaps or uneven spaces. If needed, pick up extra stitches and decrease them evenly in the first row. Practice on your gauge swatch before working on the actual garment.

Picking Up Stitches Along a Curved Edge

Curved edges typically combine horizontal, diagonal, and vertical edges. When picking up stitches along an edge shaped by decreases, such as a sweater neckline, insert the needle into the stitch below the edge stitch (fig. 24c) — not between stitches — to avoid creating holes.

The next step in finishing your project is sewing seams and weaving in yarn tails. Learn how on the next page.

Finishing: Seams and Weaving Yarn Tails

While it’s tempting to rush through finishing to see your completed project, taking time to sew seams and weave in yarn tails ensures a polished, professional result. Block each piece before assembly and let them dry to keep the edges flat during sewing.

Shoulder Seams (bound-off edges)

Step 1: Lay both pieces flat with right sides up. Thread a yarn needle and, starting at the right edge of the lower piece, insert the needle from back to front through the center of the first stitch. Pull the yarn through, leaving a tail to weave in later.

Step 2: Insert the needle from right to left under the two vertical legs of the first stitch on the upper piece (fig. 25a), then under the next two vertical legs on the lower piece, starting in the same hole. Gently pull the yarn to adjust and close the stitches.

Step 3: Continue alternating sides, inserting the needle from right to left under two strands and starting in the same hole as the previous stitch. Adjust the yarn every few stitches to close the seam. At the end, weave in the yarn tail.

Mattress Stitch

The mattress stitch is an essential technique for sewing vertical seams, such as side and sleeve seams.

Step 1: Thread a yarn needle with matching yarn, leaving a four-inch tail. With both pieces flat and right sides up, insert the needle under the horizontal strand between the first and second stitches on one piece and the corresponding strand on the other. Gently pull the yarn to tighten.

Step 2: Insert the needle under the horizontal strand on the next row of one piece, then under the corresponding strand on the other piece.

Step 3: Continue working under the horizontal strands, alternating between pieces, until six to eight rows are completed (fig. 25b). Gently pull the yarn to close the seam.

Step 4: Continue weaving until the seam is complete. Weave the yarn tails into the seam stitches and secure them.

Backstitch

The backstitch is a simple yet sturdy method for creating firm seams.

Step 1: Thread a tapestry needle with matching yarn. With right sides together, work along the wrong sides, about one stitch from the edges. Secure the lower edges by working two running stitches on top of each other (fig. 26a).

Step 2: With the needle and yarn behind the work, insert the needle through both fabric layers about two stitches to the left of the running stitch and pull the yarn to the front.

Step 3: Insert the needle from front to back, one stitch to the right, through both layers.

Step 4: Move forward to the left about two stitches, bringing the needle to the front, one stitch ahead of the original stitch. Repeat this process, stitching one stitch backward (right) on the front and two stitches forward (left) on the back, until the seam is complete.

Step 5: Finish the seam by stitching two or three running stitches over the bound-off edges. Weave in the yarn tails.

Three-Needle Bind-off

The three-needle bind-off simultaneously finishes two edges, binding off stitches and closing the seam. Commonly used for shoulders, it can also close side seams in garments worked side-to-side. Stitches can be picked up along two edges and bound off using this method. For a flat, neat seam on the right side, follow these steps.

Step 1: With the right sides together and needle tips aligned facing right (fig. 27a), hold both needles in your left hand.

Step 2: Insert the empty right-hand needle into the first stitch on each left-hand needle and knit them together (fig. 27b). Slip them off as you would a knit stitch, leaving one stitch on the right needle.

Step 3: Knit the next pair of stitches in the same manner. You’ll now have two stitches on the right needle.

Step 4: Pull the first stitch on the right needle over the second stitch (closest to the tip), as you would in a standard bind-off (fig. 27c).

Step 5: Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all stitches are bound off. Cut the yarn, pull the end through the last loop, and weave it in to secure.

Kitchener Stitch (or Grafting)

This technique creates an elastic, invisible seam by joining live stitches. It can also be used over bound-off stitches for a strong, durable seam.

With an equal number of stitches on two needles and right sides facing up, hold the needles parallel with points facing right. Thread a blunt tapestry needle with yarn two to three times the length of the area to be joined. For live stitches, follow these steps:

Step 1: Insert the threaded needle into the first stitch on the front needle purlwise (as if to purl), leaving the stitch on the needle.

Step 2: Insert the needle into the first stitch on the back needle knitwise (as if to knit), leaving the stitch on the needle.

Step 3: Insert the needle into the same first stitch on the front needle knitwise (fig. 28a), then slip the stitch off the needle.

Insert the needle into the next front stitch purlwise, leaving the stitch on the needle (fig. 28b).

Step 4: Insert the needle into the same stitch on the back needle purlwise (fig. 28c), then slip the stitch off the needle.

Insert the needle into the next back stitch knitwise, leaving the stitch on the needle (fig. 28d).

Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all stitches are completed.

Tip: To simplify the process, remember this: Front needle—purlwise leave on, knitwise take off. Back needle—knitwise leave on, purlwise take off.

Weaving in Yarn Tails

Carefully weaving in yarn tails ensures your knitting looks tidy and prevents it from unraveling over time.

Thread a tapestry needle with the yarn tail. On the wrong side, weave the needle in and out of the stitches for a few inches in one direction, then reverse for an inch or two. Gently pull the yarn to tighten, cut it close to the work, and stretch the knitting slightly to hide the tail.

Discover how to wash and block your knitted piece in the next section.

Washing and Blocking Knitting

Always keep at least one yarn label for items that require frequent washing. Store it where you can easily access it when needed. While some yarns are machine washable and dryer-safe, others may be damaged. When in doubt, hand-wash to avoid risks.

Fill a sink with lukewarm water (never hot) and add a small amount of mild soap designed for delicate knits. Submerge the garment and let it soak. Avoid agitation or rough handling to prevent felting. Drain the sink and gently press the garment to remove excess water. Never wring or twist; always support the weight to avoid stretching. Rinse with cool water, soak, drain, and gently press again. Repeat until all soap is removed.

Prepare a blocking board or lay thick towels on a flat surface like a table or bed. Never hang knitted items. Lift the garment carefully without stretching and lay it on the prepared surface. Use a tape measure to shape it to the correct size, pin with rustproof T-pins, and let it dry.

Some yarns, like wool, can be steam-blocked, but always check the yarn label first. Lay the garment on a blocking board, pin it to the correct measurements, and hold the steam spray several inches above the fabric—never directly on it.

Occasionally, washing a knitted item is done with the intention of felting it. Discover more about the felting process on the following page.

Felted Knitting

The technique known as felting, or fulling, involves applying hot water, vigorous movement, and soap to transform a knitted piece into a dense, non-raveling fabric. This process yields a robust material that combines functionality with aesthetic appeal.

For projects intended to be felted, opt for needles that are larger than usual and craft the piece bigger than the desired final size. This approach ensures ample room between stitches and rows, facilitating fiber shrinkage while keeping the fabric's surface even.

Felting is most effective with animal-based fibers. Suitable options include wool, mohair, camel, and alpaca. Note that superwash wool yarns, treated to prevent shrinking, are unsuitable for felting, as are synthetic yarns.

To achieve felting, configure your washing machine to a hot water cycle with a low water level. Incorporate a modest quantity of dish soap, as excessive suds can interfere with felting. Include items like towels, tennis balls, or washable sneakers to balance the load and enhance the felting effect. Let the machine run for five minutes, then pause to assess the felting progress. Repeat checks every five minutes until the stitches vanish entirely and the item reaches the intended size. Felting duration can differ based on yarn type, machine model, and water hardness.

Once felting is complete, extract the item from the washing machine, discard the soapy water, and refill with cold rinse water. Submerge the item for several minutes to ensure all soap is removed. Use the spin cycle to remove excess water, or wrap the item in a large towel and press to extract rinse water. Promptly remove the felted item post-spin to prevent fabric wrinkling. Shape it by stretching, pulling, and patting, then lay it flat to air-dry.

The final section includes a useful chart to help interpret various knitting abbreviations.

Standard Knitting Abbreviations

Refer to this guide for decoding new or unfamiliar abbreviations in knitting patterns.

While you’ve mastered the fundamentals of knitting, there’s always potential for growth. By practicing the methods outlined in this article, your creations will soon exude a polished, expert finish.