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If you find yourself applying lip balm daily without any real improvement, it’s because not every lip care product effectively rehydrates lips. In fact, using the wrong product could worsen the issue. Choosing a lip balm with skin-friendly ingredients and avoiding harmful ones can keep your lips from becoming dry and cracked.
Let’s first address a common concern. Can lip balm actually make your lips drier?
“There’s no solid evidence that supports or refutes this idea,” said Victoria Fu, a skincare chemist and co-founder of Chemist Confessions. “However, your lips shouldn’t need constant lip balm year-round. If you’re facing persistent dryness, there may be an underlying issue, and it might be time to consult a dermatologist.”
It’s also possible that an ingredient in your lip balm is causing dryness. This reaction may not occur immediately. “Repeated exposure to certain ingredients can lead to new allergies, causing irritation, rashes, or dry, cracked lips. Fragrances and preservatives in skincare and lip products are common allergens,” explained Dr. Heidi B. Prather, a board-certified dermatologist at Westlake Dermatology.
Essential Lip Balm Ingredients
To effectively nourish your lips and repair dry, cracked skin, you need a lip balm with the right ingredients.
“Look for a formulation that contains both humectants, which draw in moisture, and occlusives, which lock that moisture into the skin — otherwise, your lips will become drier as the water evaporates,” said Dr. Jessie Cheung, a board-certified dermatologist. “Common humectants include glycerin and hyaluronic acid. Natural occlusives like plant seed oils and beeswax are ideal,” she added.
Gloria Lu, a skincare chemist and co-founder of Chemist Confessions, suggests looking for occlusives like petrolatum, lanolin, shea butter, and polyisobutene (a synthetic polymer). Ceramides are also beneficial. “These oily, waxy substances help trap moisture and compensate for the lack of natural oils in the lips,” said Lu.
If you're planning to wear your lip balm outdoors, don't forget to add SPF. “Unlike the rest of our skin, our lips lack melanin, which helps protect them from UV damage,” Fu explained. Skipping SPF leaves your lips vulnerable to harmful rays, which can cause peeling, sunburn, and extend the recovery time for already dry lips.
“When it comes to SPF lip balms, finding the right one can require some experimentation. Mineral filters such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide may leave an unsightly white residue on the lips,” Fu said. “On the flip side, lip balms with chemical filters sometimes leave an unpleasant aftertaste. Choosing the right SPF lip balm for daily use can help prevent premature aging of the lip area,” she noted.
Ingredients to Avoid in Lip Balms
It’s not just about seeking out beneficial ingredients — there are also certain ones you should avoid. However, it’s important to note that not everyone will have a negative reaction to all of the ingredients on the ‘avoid’ list.
“It really depends on your individual skin type,” said Lu. “Lanolin, an occlusive ingredient derived from sheep’s wool, works well for many people. But a subset of individuals find this ingredient to be irritating,” she explained.
“Lanolin is a common ingredient found in lip balms that can cause allergic reactions, irritation, and make lips appear drier over time,” Prather added.
Balms with a minty sensation can also irritate, even though they may feel refreshing at first. “Steer clear of older formulas containing chemicals like phenol, camphor, and menthol, which provide a cooling effect but can lead to dryness and irritation,” Cheung explained. Menthol is often added to products for its soothing feel, but as Lu pointed out, it can be drying, especially for those with naturally dry lips. Salicylic acid, often included for exfoliation, should be avoided for the same reason.
If you’re dealing with chapped lips now or want to prevent them in the future, using the right lip balm can help.
Prather recommends starting with a simple sugar or salt scrub to exfoliate your lips, followed by one of these recommended lip balms. “Keeping it simple is best. Avoiding unnecessary ingredients can reduce the risk of irritants or allergens. I personally like plain Vaseline or Vanicecream Ointment — both are minimalist options that keep lips hydrated,” Prather said (see both of these products listed below).
1. A colorless lip balm that helps plump lips overnight
2. A lip balm infused with shea butter and SPF protection
3. A nourishing lip mask with vitamin C
4. A cream rich in vitamin E that helps reduce fine lines
5. A lip balm enriched with coconut oil and shea butter, with a delightful peach fragrance
6. A collagen-infused lip balm
7. Collagen-boosting lip masks
8. A lip balm packed with antioxidants
9. A glossy balm available in various shades that also works as an overnight lip mask
10. A lip balm designed to enhance collagen production within three days
This lip balm from U Beauty is on the pricier side, but it is formulated to promote collagen production in your lips after just three days of regular use. It features a blend of hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, collagen peptides, and vitamin E, all aimed at plumping and softening lips. Choose from nine different shades.
Promising review: “I used the original lip compound and wanted to try the new colors. Makes my lips extra soft, great moisturizing treatment and color just enhances the product. I would highly recommend it, even though it’s a bit pricey.” —Audrey
Available for purchase at Dermstore for $68.
11. This lip treatment designed to repair signs of aging, made with 100% vegan ingredients
12. A nourishing lip oil packed with essential vitamins
