Mastering the Fishtail Braid: A Complete Step-by-Step Guide

The fishtail braid dates back to 430 BCE. It was famously featured in the sculptures of Caryatids, columns that were crafted to resemble women. As Paul Cucinello, a renowned celebrity stylist from New York City and co-founder of Cucinello Beauty, explains, fishtail braids may appear complex, but once you master the technique, they’re among the easiest and quickest ways to style your hair.

Fishtail braids have made a strong resurgence on social media, largely due to their simplicity and speed in creating a stunning look without a stylist. According to Cucinello, 'These braids are perfect for any event, from weddings to fashion shows or even for a casual walk with your pets.' They are incredibly versatile and can be neat or slightly messy depending on your preference. Plus, there are countless ways to personalize your fishtail braid to elevate your style.

There are a couple of situations where fishtail braids may not be suitable. First, they may not work well for people with short layers or those without enough hair length to manage the style. Additionally, 'Fishtail braids may not be the best option for those who prefer a more conservative look,' says Hana Chong, senior hairstylist at NYC THE TEAM Hair Salon. 'The fishtail braid has a bit more flair, making it less traditional.'

We reached out to both Cucinello and Chong for a detailed, step-by-step guide on how to master the seemingly complicated fishtail braid every time.

How to Create a Fishtail Braid

Step 1:

Start by adding volume powder or spray to your roots and the rest of your hair. Then, divide your hair into two even sections, either by parting it straight down the middle or by splitting your ponytail in two. 'We'll refer to one side as A and the other as B,' suggests Cucinello.

Take a small section of hair from side A, following the natural hairline. 'Cross it over and add it to side B, keeping the two sections distinct as you work your way down,' advises Cucinello.

Step 2:  

Now repeat the process on the opposite side. Take a small section of hair from side B, following the hairline, cross it over, and add it to the A section you started with, continuing to keep the two sections separate as you braid.

Step 3: 

Return to side A and repeat the first step. 'Take another small section of hair from side A, following along the hairline, cross it over, and add it to side B,' explains Cucinello.

Step 4: 

Return to side B. Take another small section of hair from side B, following the natural hairline, cross it over, and add it to the A section you’ve already started.

Step 5: 

Continue repeating the steps until you reach the end of the braid and there’s no more hair to cross over. Once you’ve finished, secure the braid with an elastic. 'You can leave the braid as it is or use your fingers to gently loosen it, making the braid fuller as you wish,' says Chong. 'To loosen, simply pull the braid from side to side to create more space between the strands, giving it a 'messier' or more natural look. You can also use pomade or gel to help keep the braid neat or messy.'

Best Products to Create Fishtail Braids

1. BLAX Clear Snag-Free Hair Elastics

Elastics are a must for creating a fishtail braid. Cucinello recommends BLAX elastics because they don’t snag, blend in seamlessly with your braid, and won’t break easily.

2. Cricket Silkomb Pro-50 Fine Tooth Rattail Comb

A rattail comb is perfect for dividing your hair into 'side A' and 'side B.' This comb is also great for loosening the braid once it’s secured with elastics, giving it a more relaxed, lived-in look.

3. Thick Volume Enhancing Scalp Treatment + Styling Gel by Cucinello Beauty

Cucinello explains that while fishtail braids don't require a lot of product, they’re much easier to create if your hair has some texture. This product from Cucinello Beauty is ideal for adding a little grit to your hair before styling.

4. Living Proof Full Dry Volume & Texture Spray

This is another one of Cucinello's go-to products. It's great for adding both volume and texture to your fishtail braids, particularly if you’re aiming for a more tousled, effortless look.

5. Bumble & Bumble Spray De Mode Hairspray

For a more polished, formal look where every strand stays in place, Cucinello recommends Bumble & Bumble’s Spray De Mode. 'I suggest using an adjustable-hold hairspray to lock your braid in place,' he says.