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A year ago, I didn’t have a skincare routine at all. My face only got washed during showers, and sunscreen was reserved for beach trips. Now, I regret not starting sooner. Incorporating a daily regimen of cleanser and moisturizer has cleared most of my acne and left my skin feeling softer and healthier. Still, I can’t help but wonder: What more could I be doing?
A solid skincare routine doesn’t need to be time-consuming or expensive. We consulted trusted dermatologists for this article, and they all emphasized simplicity. The basics are straightforward: Cleanse your face when necessary, moisturize as needed, and never skip sunscreen—every single day.
Set two daily reminders on your phone, for your morning and evening routines.
After mastering the basics, you might want to explore additional products tailored to specific issues, such as acne or signs of aging. For conditions like eczema, rosacea, or severe acne, consulting a dermatologist is ideal to determine the best routine, which could involve prescription treatments or medications.
If you’re ready to dive into the essentials, start by setting two daily reminders on your phone for your morning and evening routines. Then, continue reading to learn what to do and the reasons behind each step.
Cleanse Your Face
There’s no one-size-fits-all rule for how frequently you should cleanse your face, but most people benefit from doing so at least occasionally. According to board-certified dermatologist Dr. Fayne Frey, teenagers with oily skin often experience fewer breakouts when washing twice daily, and she recommends the same for acne-prone adults. However, if washing less frequently works for you and your skin looks and feels great, that’s perfectly fine too.
Cleansing removes excess oil and dead skin cells that can lead to acne. It also helps eliminate makeup or skincare products applied earlier. (While leaving makeup on won’t always cause breakouts, you likely don’t want it lingering indefinitely, so cleansing is a good idea.) If a gentle cleanser doesn’t fully remove your makeup, consider using an oil-based remover, such as cold cream.
No special tools are required for washing your face—simply use water, apply a cleanser with your fingertips, and rinse. Washcloths and brushes are unnecessary and may even cause skin irritation.
Washcloths and brushes aren’t necessary, and can end up irritating your skin.
The active ingredients in cleansers work by bridging the gap between oil and water, which typically don’t mix. Water alone won’t remove oil from your face, but cleansers contain molecules that bind to oil and dirt, forming micelles. These micelles are then rinsed away with water, which is why rinsing alone isn’t as effective as washing.
Traditional soap is effective at cleaning but can be too harsh, stripping away natural oils. Instead, opt for synthetic detergent-based cleansers, often labeled as facial cleansers. Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Katie Beleznay recommends cream cleansers for their gentleness. For specific concerns, look for cleansers with benzoyl peroxide (for acne) or exfoliants like salicylic or alpha-hydroxy acids. Hypoallergenic and sensitive skin options are also available. Micellar water is another gentle cleansing option, essentially a diluted cleanser.
Avoid cleansers with abrasive elements like plastic beads, as they can irritate or over-exfoliate the skin. Additionally, these plastic particles are harmful to the environment, eventually polluting lakes and oceans after being washed down the drain.
Hydrate Your Skin
According to Dr. Frey, research consistently demonstrates that moisturizers, which boost skin hydration, are beneficial. Most people should moisturize twice daily, particularly if their skin is dry, the climate is arid, or activities like swimming dehydrate the skin. If your skin rarely feels dry—perhaps due to living in a humid environment—you might moisturize less or skip it altogether. If unsure, test moisturizing to see if your skin improves; it likely will.
As the name suggests, moisturizers help retain water in your skin, which is crucial for optimal skin function. Proper hydration allows skin cells to shed naturally and enhances the skin’s role as a protective barrier. Conditions like eczema and acne often worsen with dryness but improve when the skin is well-hydrated.
A good moisturizer will have humectants to attract water, and occlusives to keep it from evaporating away.
To grasp how moisturizers function, it’s essential to examine the microscopic structure of skin. The outermost layer, the stratum corneum, consists of flattened, dead cells rich in proteins like keratin and natural moisturizing factors (NMFs). These cells are connected by desmosomes, and the gaps between them are filled with a lipid matrix.
The dead cells in the stratum corneum naturally shed once their purpose is fulfilled. Every time you touch something, you lose a few skin cells. This is intentional, as your skin continuously generates new cells to replace the old ones.
However, when your skin lacks proper hydration, the enzymes responsible for breaking down desmosomes become less effective. This can cause cells to shed in clumps instead of individually, leading to a flaky or ashy appearance and compromising your skin’s natural protective barrier.
Moisturizers address this issue by providing the water needed for enzymes to function effectively. Key ingredients to look for include:
Occlusives, which lock in moisture by preventing water from evaporating. Common examples on ingredient labels are petrolatum, dimethicone, cetyl alcohol, mineral oil, and vegetable oils.
Humectants, which draw moisture from the environment and deeper skin layers. Examples include glycerin, urea, hyaluronic acid, allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), sorbitol, and propylene glycol.
A good moisturizer combines both humectants to attract water and occlusives to retain it. Emollients like lanolin and cetearyl alcohol also enhance skin softness and provide mild occlusive benefits.
If you have sensitive skin or allergies, steer clear of products containing fragrances and essential oils. Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Marie Leger highlights that common allergens—safe for most but problematic for those with sensitivities—include parabens, formaldehyde, and lanolin.
Discover a Sunscreen You’ll Adore
Every dermatologist I’ve consulted agrees: sunscreen is essential for everyone, regardless of skin tone or gender. It should be worn daily, year-round, whether you’re spending time outside or not.
Beyond preventing sunburn and skin cancer, sunscreen plays a vital role in maintaining youthful skin by preventing thickening and wrinkles associated with aging. As Dr. Frey emphasizes, “No anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, firming, or toning product on the market can match the benefits of sunscreen.”
If you imagine sunscreen as sticky, greasy, and coconut-scented, you’ll be pleasantly surprised. Sunscreen comes in various forms, including sprays, lotions, and stick applicators. It’s also a key ingredient in many makeup products and moisturizers. Dr. Frey notes that the primary difference between day and night moisturizers is the inclusion of sunscreen in daytime formulas.
You won’t get a sunburn if you stay indoors, but you’re still getting some of those aging UVA rays.
A higher SPF offers better protection, within reasonable limits. SPF, or sun protection factor, indicates how long sunscreen can shield your skin from UVB rays, which cause redness and sunburn. While higher SPF blocks more UVB, SPF 30 already blocks 97% of UVB rays, making the added cost of SPF 50 or 100 potentially unnecessary.
In the US, there’s no equivalent rating for UVA protection. UVA rays contribute significantly to skin aging and, along with UVB, increase skin cancer risk. UVA rays can penetrate windows, meaning even indoors, you’re exposed to aging rays. For UVA protection, choose a sunscreen labeled “broad spectrum.” (European sunscreens use a five-star system—consider purchasing high-SPF, highly-rated sunscreen during overseas trips.)
Sunscreen wears off due to rubbing and sweating, so reapplication is often necessary. Additionally, most people don’t apply the thick layer used in SPF testing, meaning real-world protection is lower. For instance, SPF 30 applied sparingly may only provide an actual SPF of 2.
This is why using separate moisturizer and sunscreen products can be beneficial: you can reapply sunscreen as needed without overloading your skin with extra moisturizer.
The most crucial aspect of sunscreen is that it should feel comfortable on your skin. If it’s greasy, sticky, or simply unpleasant, you’ll avoid using it daily, rendering it ineffective.
Discover
At this point, our routine might seem dull. Cleansing, moisturizing, and applying sunscreen? Where’s the excitement of masks, serums, and shopping sprees at The Ordinary?
Keep in mind that the hype around skincare products often exceeds their actual benefits. However, dermatologists acknowledge that experimenting with new products can be enjoyable. If a detailed routine brings you joy, that’s perfectly fine—just avoid harmful ingredients and don’t convince yourself that your skin’s health relies on a 20-step regimen.
Experiment with caution, but you may waste less of your time and money in the long run if you just ask a dermatologist for advice.
Many skincare products include ingredients regulated as drugs because they can address or prevent issues like acne. Proceed with caution when experimenting, and if you have a specific concern, consulting a dermatologist might save you time and money in the long run.
Here are some of the most common active ingredients in skincare products that are likely to deliver results.
Salicylic acid, a type of beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), exfoliates dead skin cells. Its oil-soluble nature makes it effective for oily skin, and it’s a popular choice for treating mild acne. You’ll find it in various acne-fighting products like cleansers, moisturizers, and specialized pads or liquids.
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic acid, are another category of chemical exfoliants. If acne isn’t your main concern, AHAs can help achieve smoother, brighter skin.
Benzoyl peroxide, a classic acne treatment, works by releasing free radicals to kill bacteria. Be cautious, as these free radicals can bleach fabrics like clothes, towels, and pillowcases.
Retinoids, chemically related to vitamin A, accelerate skin cell turnover. They’re effective against acne, fine lines, and dark spots left after pimples heal.
Vitamin C may offer protection against UV damage and help lighten dark spots, though evidence supporting this is limited.
To see results from any of these ingredients, ensure the product specifies the concentration of the active ingredient. For instance, Differin Gel contains 0.1% adapalene, a retinoid concentration proven effective for acne. In contrast, a generic moisturizer listing retinol low on its ingredients list may not contain enough to be effective.
Avoid using all these ingredients simultaneously, as many can irritate or dry out your skin. Combining them increases the risk of adverse reactions. Dr. Beleznay advises, “Compatibility depends on the formulation, so it’s hard to generalize. If unsure, I recommend using one active ingredient in the morning and another at night, like glycolic acid in the AM and retinol in the PM.”
Discover More
As you embark on your skincare journey, be cautious: finding reliable, science-backed, and unbiased skincare advice is challenging. Companies aim to sell products, researchers often rely on corporate funding, and beauty publications prioritize clicks by hyping new products. There’s little incentive to promote the effectiveness of affordable, everyday moisturizers.
It’s easy to get swept up in the hype. Maybe that miracle product that worked for someone else is the solution you’ve been searching for! While that might be true occasionally, it’s unlikely to apply to every new lotion or serum on the market.
Incidentally, drugstore products are often perfectly adequate. Trader Joe’s offers a sunscreen moisturizer for $3.99, though I personally didn’t enjoy its texture; my next choice will be CeraVe’s SPF 30 moisturizer priced at $12. Cleansers can also be affordable—I use this $4 option from Clean & Clear. Of course, prices can escalate quickly, with luxury skincare products reaching hundreds of dollars. Dr. Frey maintains a database of products she recommends, with no financial ties to them.
The cost of active ingredient products can vary widely between brands, so always review the ingredients and details to ensure they meet your needs. (For prescription-strength products, the complexities of drug pricing come into play.)
To figure out what works for you, start by keeping track of what you use and when.
To determine what works best for your skin, begin by documenting the products you use and when you use them. Some treatments, such as retinoids and benzoyl peroxide, take time to show results, and your skin might temporarily worsen before improving. Take photos to monitor your progress.
However, approach others’ success stories with caution. As humans, we often simplify anecdotes to fit the narrative we prefer. Dr. Leger highlighted a recent post on r/SkincareAddiction where a user credited a 14-product routine for their results—while also taking Accutane. Dr. Leger notes, “When I prescribe Accutane, patients achieve similar results using just water and moisturizer.”
Unfortunately for r/SkincareAddiction enthusiasts, the dermatologists I consulted didn’t consider the subreddit a reliable source for skincare advice. It focuses heavily on personal experiences, which can be misleading, and the routines shared are often unnecessarily complex. Additionally, the subreddit’s official advice labels sunscreen as optional, which drew criticism from our experts.
Feel free to browse the threads, but consider seeking advice from more scientifically grounded sources, such as the American Academy of Dermatology’s skincare pages. While finding reliable skincare advice can be challenging, it’s worth the effort, and we’re here to help you navigate it.
