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Juan Silva/Getty ImagesRetinols often steal the spotlight when it comes to anti-aging, but there are other powerful ingredients to consider. Peptides are one such ingredient that should be on your radar for face creams. What exactly are they, what do they do for your skin, and are they safe? Keep reading to find out.
To truly understand the impact of peptides, it's important to first grasp the role of collagen, explains Deirdre Hooper, MD, a dermatologist at Audubon Dermatology in New Orleans. Collagen is the most abundant protein in your skin, forming fibers that provide structure and thickness. As these collagen fibers break down, wrinkles and thinner skin start to appear, says Dr. Hooper.
Peptides are small chains of amino acids that interact with collagen in multiple ways to slow down aging. Adding peptides to your face creams can help reverse or delay visible signs of aging, according to experts.
Peptides are biologically active, meaning they trigger changes in your skin. These amino acids are believed to enhance collagen production, and if a topical product can promote collagen creation or manage other aging-related processes, it becomes an exceptional skincare option, says Dr. Hooper.
Peptides are divided into three categories: signal peptides, carrier peptides, and neurotransmitter peptides, all of which are available in various skincare products. [source: Dr. Hooper]
Signal peptides communicate with your skin to either stimulate collagen production or prevent its breakdown, helping to reduce wrinkles. Popular signal peptides used in cosmetics include palmitoyl pentapeptides, found in products like StriVectin and Oil of Olay’s Regenerist line.
Carrier peptides help deliver copper to your skin, a vital trace element for wound healing. Copper may also encourage collagen production and act as an antioxidant. Copper peptides are present in Neova night therapy cream. [source: Dr. Hooper]
Neurotransmitter peptides work by inhibiting the release of chemicals responsible for muscle contractions, functioning similarly to Botox. However, it’s a lengthy process for these peptides to reach facial muscles, and there’s no proven evidence that skincare products containing them, such as DDF (Doctor's Dermatologic Formula) Wrinkle Relax and Dermafreeze 365, are truly effective, says Dr. Hooper. [source: Dr. Hooper]
If you notice irritation like itching or burning after using these products, stop using them until you consult with your dermatologist, advises Dr. Hooper. However, these products are typically well-tolerated by all skin types.
Peptides are included in a wide range of products, from budget-friendly to high-end options. Fortunately, you don’t need to spend a fortune to enjoy their benefits. Some dermatologists recommend Oil of Olay's Regenerist products (priced under $20) as effective as the more expensive alternatives. [source: US News & World Report].
